This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mille that will start!!!

Joined Jan 2008
50 Posts | 0+
Newcastle
Just a follow up to a previous thread......My 01 mille was a complete bastard to start even with a new battery and optimate. I eventually got my arse into gear and replaced the spark plugs.......first time every time now! :biggrin

Anyone who is going to change there plugs for the first time please be aware you need an extra set of joints in your fingers/wrist to change the front set!

Oil change is planned for this weekend. I was given semi synthetic 10/40 oil by M&S aprilla dealer in Newcastle will this be ok? I seem to remember reading somewhere to use 15/50?

The only 15/50 they had was fully synthetic and I also remember reading that this can cause clutch slip?

Anyone else used 10/40 and is it ok?

Thanks in advance.............roll on the summer
 
silkolene comp4 is a very popular choice, I've used it for 45k in my 02 mille
cheers
Ck
 
V-twins are always a c**t to change the front plug(s) on. V4's are even worse!
 
V-twins are always a c**t to change the front plug(s) on. V4's are even worse!

Yep, I remember trying to change front plugs on my RVF400 a few year back.......It was so awkward I just sold the bike instead!
 
Just for future reference Paul, did you lift the tank and remove the airbox to change the plugs? It's pretty straight forward from there with easy access to all 4 plugs
 
I was told the clutch will only slip with fully synth if you poodle around, i have putoline Syntec4 Plus in mine and it hasn't slipped once:thumbup
 
got into this debate with dealer when I wanted to put fully synthetic in my 1000 k5 and they would not, and even asked crescent suzuki for their advice, who said use semi, but recently read in one of the mags that as long as you use oil with a certain code (not sure and dont quote me on it,) possibly a JSAP rating, then it is compatible with a wet clutch.
 
the fully sin will make your clutch slip thing is a load of crap. I even used car oil in my old zxr400 and the clutch didnt slip.

as for letting the Mrs fit new plugs...well i just dont think that would turn out well at all!
 
Fully synthetic can cause clutch slip

Load of ******** and urban myth............:eatcorn
 
Just for future reference Paul, did you lift the tank and remove the airbox to change the plugs? It's pretty straight forward from there with easy access to all 4 plugs


Lifted the tank.....back 2 are easy, for the front 2 I unbolted the airbox and shoved it over, its still a bit awkward tho............especially when I have no patience!
 
the fully sin will make your clutch slip thing is a load of crap. I even used car oil in my old zxr400 and the clutch didnt slip.

as for letting the Mrs fit new plugs...well i just dont think that would turn out well at all!

When i had trouble with starting mine the other week, and looked at changing the front plugs i just laughed :roll even with the rene air box there is no way i would get my hand/finger's in to get them blighter's out :eek: most of the aprilia mechanics must have a special tool to get them out surely :confused either that or they all have small flexible hands :dunno
 
You actually get a spark plug removal socket in the underseat toolkit. Combine that with a 13mm spanner and a bit of persistance you'll get em. Cheaper than a dealer!
 
Synthetic Oil.

It's Baz who's right, for the part about certain code... On the can you will see somewhere API Service SM, SL,SJ..whatever. Over the years you will have notice that the letters have gone "up" as these oils have been tested on the new engines that have come out over the years . When I was young SE was the best you could get . As engine have gone from cast iron to aluminium, from side valves to DOHC, from carbureted to EFI and from dry to wet clutch's...Oil company's test and develop new additive's to help these engines perform and last more so. In the end, if you want the best oil, go synthetic for all your engines, you will notice the difference, After 10k miles the sint.oil will be in better shape than ordinary oil after 3k miles. Less oil changes mean more time riding and less pollution, a few ponies more. No need to flush anything as it mix with ANY oil. FINALLY YOUR BRAND NEW APRILIA RSV-1000 COME FROM THE FACTORY WITH SINTHETIC OIL IN IT.:thumbup:thumbup:thumbup
 
I have to disagree with alot that's been said on this oil subject.

Firstly your brand new RSVR does NOT come with fully synthetic oil from the factory, it comes with standard mineral oil. Why, well fully synthetic oil will not allow the piston rings to seal correctly and mineral oil is used to bed in correctly the rings up to the first 600 mile service where the oil is changed for semi synthetic. Secondly as Droiun955 correctly states the Api or JASO MA ( motorcyles ) rating increases by the second letter. So API SH or SJ is perfectly acceptable.

Do NOT put car engine oil in your motorcylce. Rene i really can't believe you did that :roll. Car engine oil is full of friction inhibitors, if your clutch didn't slip then you were very lucky. Car engine oil is designed to lubricate on low revving car engines not high revving motorcycle engines. The protection qualities between the two types of oil is completely different. Also your motorcycle engine oil lubricates the gearbox. This is not the case on a car engine. Again the oil needs completely different protection qualities.

Using fully synthetic oil for the first 6000 miles at least is not a good idea unless you use the bike on the track. The engine needs at least this amount of mileage to bed in correctly.

From here on use fully synthetic if you feel that's what's best for your engine. Personally i will use top quality semi synthetic. Unless you're racing on the track there is absolutely no need for fully synthetic on the road but the choice is yours.

As regard to clutch slip on RSVR engines when using fully synthetic oil, there is no real evidence to suggest that it is the fully sythnetic oil that's causing the slip however, i suspect that if your clutch is getting a little worn then the fully synthetic oil compared to semi sythnetic oil may exaggerate the problem, hence the slip.

As Baz states, most clued up dealers won't put fully synthetic in at service. The ones that do probably have a higher profit margin on fully synth and pass that on to you the customer ;)

Some intersting reading here

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 
Last edited:
Oils

I must say Legs as come up with some interesting points. As for stating the bike comes with synt.oil, I was repeating what my dealer told me. Does he know what he's talking about? Anyway I went and look in my owner's manual page 150 it says Engine oil Recommend: IP EXTRE RAID 4, SAE15W-50 or AGIP TEC 4T SAE 15W-50. As alternate you can use oil brands with performance equal or better to the specs: CCMC G-4, API SG. So... if your oil brand states SG or better it should be fine... No recommandation as to go with Motorcycle oils vs car oils. As for the higher revs and the transmission soaking in it, it's the argument the Motorcycle Brands rely on for making you buy their oils. As for synt.oil in brand new engine that's a thing I have never tried, but yes I would go along with Legs opinion on this. I went and read the article, many enteresting points, but hardly verifiable. Maybe starting with two new bikes riding side by side their whole life would prove or invalidate this. Anybody who wants to discuss this you're more than welcome. There's more to say on this!:biggrin
 
I think i can add something to this. i can guarantee that you do not want to use car oil in a motorcycle engine.
I work for shell, and was involved in an oil study some years ago with shell advanced ultra 4T.
motorcycle engines rev higher and due to having gearboxes to lubricate as well require completely different oils. shear forces are dramatically higher in bike engines and wet clutches must not be used with slip additives. there are a completely different set of additives in the two types of oil.
Take Mobil 1, friend works for mobile and was involved in similar study. Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 4T motorcycle oils are completely different. do not use Mobil 1 car oil in a bike. it has slip additives in it to increase longevity of the oil. this however can destroy wet clutch plates.
with regards why semi in these bikes and not fully, i can only give info for my ZX9R which was the same. the reason was that the clutch on the ZX9R is the same as the ZX7R which was perfectly ok on fully synthetic, however the power increase brought the clutch to its limits of friction, semi could cause it to brake that friction limit and cause slip.
i would imagine these RSVR's are the same. producing enough power to put the clutch right on its frictional limits.
on a slightly different line, bike engines which run indipendant gearbox oil can use car derived oils in the engine and gearbox oils in the gearbox.
 
Very interresting, Heroblob. I made a little search on Agip, as it is not sold over here and knew nothing of them. On their web site : AGIP.ENI.IT Clicking on engines oils, motorbikes, AGIP TEC 4T 15-50 it say's " synthetic lubricant for 4-stroke bike engines" . I would tend to agree with you however at this stage about motorcycle oils VS car oils. Altought, I have use Castrol Syntec or Mobil1 in my SV-650 that I use for racing with no problems , a 72HP V-twin against a 125HP monster would probably be quite different. Wonder if anyboby as use a Synthetic car oil in is RSV ... Anyone? Cheers.
 
×

New Posts