Help - Idle speed problems?

adzersv · Mar 2, 2009

Pulled the bike of the garage this morning, started her up, Seemed to be ticking over a bit too fast (around 3k) and wouldn't settle??

Anyway set off for work and by the time i'd arrived 10miles later (after alot of braking and dipping the clutch) the bike was upto 6k??

After removing the main fuses and leaving it for a couple of hours i have refitted them and it now starts and runs fine? (I have had to do this once before)

Am i correct in thinking that there is some sort of servo that controls the idle speed that is independant of the throttle? if so is there some way to check the setting of this?

Love the bike, but it's got to be reliable, havn't sold the VFR yet and starting to have doubts.

LEGS · Mar 2, 2009

what model and year is your bike?

adzersv · Mar 2, 2009

Doh! forgot to mention its an 04 Factory.

LEGS · Mar 2, 2009

Is there an alarm fitted?

pjefferi · Mar 2, 2009

It's the immobiliser ECU mate its probably foocked. Mine kept doing this. After a while it'll happen again. You will prob have one or all of these symptoms too when it goes wrong again -

1) immobiliser light flashes every second instead of every three
2) bike will try to turn over but not fire up properly
3) clocks might reset to zero
4) bike will carry on running when the key is removed.

If these are your symptoms, you're looking at a new ECU. Has it had a knock on the left hand side or have you tried jump starting the bike recently?

Remove the left hand fairing and the carbon cover and you will see a small box on the inner fairing at the front. This is the ECU. Trace the wires to three connectors, check these first. UNder the carbon cover you will see 2 x 6 pin connecotrs (white) check these for corrosion too.

If these are fine, your ECU needs replacing.

adzersv · Mar 2, 2009

Yeah, bought the bike in nov last year, had been stood for a while and owner jump started it when i went to pick it up.
Got it home and hooked it up to an optimate, have been out on it 3 or 4 times now and everytime it either dosn't want to start or you can start it with the ignition in the off position and remove the key?
The imobiliser light stopped flashing altogether at one point but has now returned.

So i'm sat down, what's it gonna cost me?

Can you remove the imobiliser?

if you fit a new ecu do you need to get the keys re-coded?

And here was i thinking i could get some nice bolt on extra's..............

pjefferi · Mar 2, 2009

It sounds like the same problem that mine had. When you get a spare 3 mins check the connectors that I spoke about first, it may just be this. It looks like jump starting casues the fragile ECU to go haywire.

The part costs £190 from aprilia parts but takes about 2 -3 weeks to arrive (nobody seems to stock aprilia parts they all have to come from Italy). A quick 5 minute job. If you have 2 keys, kone should have a red aprilia badge on it, this is your master key with transponder. When you first turn on the bike with the new ECU, the immboliser light stays on permanently. Put your master key in and turn off wait for a few seconds and the light will blink, turn key off. Put in second key and repeat cycle. The keys are now stored and your bike should be ok.

Alternatively put it into your dealer and they will do all of this for you.

There is a way of bypassing the ECU I belive but you won't find anything on the public forum.

adzersv · Mar 2, 2009

Thanks for the help, gonna check the connectors tomorrow will let you know how i get on.

If it is the ecu, i'm gonna try and find a second hand one first.

Would i be able to use my original keys with a second hand ecu?

pjefferi · Mar 2, 2009

You would have to get a complete lockset second hand because the keys also do the fuel cap and rear cowl lock too. Let me know how you get on though. If you have a dealer near you, pop it doen there and let them check it first, they may have one from a donor bike they could swap to test it.

I'm 99% certain this is what it is, as it is exactly the same as my problem and I tried jumping mine. Best get it checked out just in case - don't want you throwing £200 at your bike if it isn't that part!

adzersv · Mar 4, 2009

Well, checked all the connectors last night, a couple of the pins in the white blocks had some light corrosion so i wd40'd all of them to be sure.

The bike fired up no problem for a change, so i tried wiggling the wires to see if i could get it to mis-behave and it all seems ok?

I guess it will just be a case of seeing how it goes, If it goes again i'll just have to bite the bullet and get the ecu.

I am tempted if it does go again to open up the sealed ecu just to have a look, as you can hear the switch inside when you turn the ignition on? there might be a way to overide the whole thing???

Thanks for your help.

adzersv · Mar 4, 2009

Dammmmmmmmmmm, just got home and tried starting her - No go, pulled the main fuse and re-fitted it, bike started after backfiring then proceeded to tickover at 3-4k???:dunno

Looks like i need to get that ecu orderd asap!

pjefferi · Mar 4, 2009

Check the immobiliser light is it flashing every second?

Sorrfy to hear that mate. It's a common fault - apparently. Let me know hoe you get on and will keep fingers crossed for you!

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Help - Idle speed problems?

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