This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Have I ****** it? Help!

am not convinced that changing the rotar will completely fix the issue

apparently so....the earlier stator is magnetically too strong, and produces an excess of juice. when this excess cant sucessfully be shunted to ground and converted to heat in the re/rec, the stator overheats, the insulation breaks down, and before you know it, it's toast.
 
Hey folks…..so charged the batt and was showing over 14v across the terminals, dash said 10.2. Anyway the bike started. The only brown connector I could find was behind the coolant expansion tank (pictured below) on the right hand side, dunno if this is the right one, anyway checked it at 4k rpm and it was in the 80s or 90s on the multimeter. I have charged the old battery before in situ with an old fashioned 12v charger, somebody mentioned earlier this would cook the alternator, maybe this is the whole problem……I'm stumped!

ResizedIMG_1764.jpg


ResizedIMG_1763.jpg
 
Looks like that ststor has been changed before ?
Tif thats still just a theory , until some one fits the lower output rotar on puts some meaningful miles on the bike we really dont know
 
So, after chrarging the battery again I took the bike for a fast run for about 45 mins without stopping the engine (didn't wanna get stranded again lol). Measured the battery voltage before I left, 13.10v on the multimeter. The lumpy running and nasty flatspots were gone and it ran like a dream. Measured batt voltage again when I got home with the engine stopped, voltage had dropped to 12.54. Bike started again ok, so measured the battery voltage again with it idling and it had dropped again to 12.22. Not sure what this points to but the bike doesn't seem to be charging the battery? Does a new alternator/generator include the stator and rotor or is it possible to be another electrical component in the charging system? Sorry for all the questions lol. I just don't want to waste money buying something if I'm not certain which parts causing the problem.
Cheers
 
In between the Generator and the battery is the Regulator, it is that that looks to been changed and to a non standard ones, as the crimped connectors will have been added at some time. If you are sure you are getting 60 volts AC on each of the yelllow wires coming from the generator, then it would seem the regulator has gone. But it would be worth just checking those crimps, and making sure they are OK.
 
Hmm....so you guys reckon somethings already been changed? When I tried the multimeter on the connector there was one combination of 2 yellow wires that weren't reading, can't remember which ones but I could only get a reading on a specific two....does that make sense? Am I testing them the right way....black and red multimeter leads on any combination of the three yellow wires? Didnt think to check the crimped connectors, will check them tomorrow. More head scratching......saw a nice SuperDuke for sale at a dealers ...... Am seriously tempted lol. Nah! Can't give up on the T that easy.......yet!!
Cheers for all the help guys.....great forum this.
 
You just need to break it down into simple steps.

I have pinched this from another forum, and tried to delete the stuff that was specific to the bike they were talking about, hope it helps.

Basically the charging system consists of 3 main components.

Alternator: Which is a generator powered by the engines rotation.
It produces AC voltage by means of magnets in a flywheel and a stator mounted on the casing.

Regulator/ Rectifier: Regulates the voltage so that it stays within a
specific range. Converts AC current to DC current.

Battery: This stores the regulated DC current.



Component location.

Stator: Behind the left hand casing on the engine

Reg/Rec: Right hand side near the water bottle.

Battery: Underneath the rider's seat.

Bike died on you and lights won't work, it won't start or start back up after being used or a dead battery?

If you are experiencing some of those problems then it is possible that part of your charging system has failed, or more specifically the Reg/Rec had failed at some point.
Before starting any of the tests ensure that the battery is fully charged (and reading between 12.8v and 13.2v across the terminals) and that all connectors are clean and tight. The only tools you need are those in your toolkit and a multimeter.

If you have found the battery discharged overnight there are two possible causes.
A voltage leak (something still drawing a current) or a knackered battery (sulphated or damaged cell)

LEAK TEST
Make sure the ignition is switched off and disconnect the earth/ negative (-) lead from the battery.
Connect the multimeter + probe to the earth lead and the "“ probe to the battery terminal. Make sure the meter is reading amps.

With the ignition off there should be no (0) reading unless you have an alarm fitted. The only non switched circuits are the cooling fan and an alarm.

If there is a leakage which exceeds the specified limits. A short circuit or an accessory on is most likely.
The best way to locate the short is to start disconnecting connectors one by one until the culprit is found.


BATTERY TEST
If the leak test is within it specified limits and your battery is still going flat then the battery or a cell in it is suspect.
The only way to do this is to put it on a discharge tester usually only found at your local dealer or bike shop.
DO NOT charge the battery up before taking it to be tested.


CHARGING TEST
Before starting this test warm the engine up to operating temp.

There are several ways of obtaining a reading when checking the charging I will use the simplest one.

Connect the meter and have it set to read volts. Start up the engine and increase the revs to 5,000rpm gradually. Switch on the lights and put Hi beam on.

You should obtain a reading between 13.0v "“ 15.5v @5,000rpm.

If your reading is outwith the above and your battery is fine and all connectors are clean and tight the most likely culprit is the Reg/Rec.


REGULATOR/RECTIFIER



Disconnect the brown plug behind the water bottle and using the meter check the following terminals.

Terminals Reading check
Red/White (+) and earth(frame-) Battery voltage Batt charge
Green and earth Continuity Earth connection
Yellow and Yellow 0.1-1.0 Ohms Charging coil line

Red/white and Green Battery voltage
Yellow and Green There should be NO continuity.

If these check out then the wiring is fine.

REG/REC TESTING

Remove the unit from the bike. The only way to test is to check the resistance between the terminals of the unit
(+) Red/ Yellow Yellow Yellow Green
(-) White 1 2 3

Red/White ------ INF INF INF INF
Yellow 1 0.5-10 ------ 30-500 30-500 10-200
Yellow 2 0.5-10 30-500 ------ 30-500 10-200
Yellow 3 0.5-10 30-500 30-500 ------ 10-200
Green 1-20 0.5-10 0.5-10 0.5-10 --------
The readings are K Ohms.

If any of the readings are outwith the values then replace the REG/REC.

The final test is that of the Charging Coil or Stator.

This has already been done when checking the REG/REC connector. On carbed bikes the connector is in front of the battery below the fuel tank on the others it is behind the battery above the shock mount.
I can see no reason to check this connection other than to rule out a possible short in the wiring harness from this point to the stator/damaged stator, or to eliminate a short in the wiring from the plug to the Reg plug.

The reading should be 0.1-1.0 Ohms between the yellow to yellow terminals.

You should also check each yellow to earth for continuity.
There should be NO continuity.


I hope you find this troubleshooting guide helpful it is made up from my many years working on bikes and from the various manuals that are in print.
Lastly if you are still not sure seek qualified help.
 
Thanks for taking the time to post that Iain, much appreciated……feel I have a better understanding of whats going on now and will try and check the things mentioned as soon as I can……its pishin down out now and aint got room in the shed to work on the T, need to wait til it stops raining.
Cheers
 
If your not reading one of the yellow wires when you check them, ie yellow to yellow in any combination, then you have part of the stator gone open circuit (not working).


Good post Iain ( Keith will think your after his job)
 
No you can't do that Keith, it won't be allowed. (well maybe on this site):thumbup
 
So have narrowed the prob down to, I think, the reg/rec and have bought one from the states on ebay. It's the stator thats been replaced already on my bike going by the crimp connectors and all wires were showing good current flow, all connectors on the bike checked and where neccesary, cleaned and sprayed with WD, terminal connections good and everything else tickety boo. So will have to wait for the new bit to arrive, fit it and see if my starting/charging issues are resolved……fingers crossed T will be fighting fit again soon, will let yas know. I owe all you clever clogs on here a pint!!! Big thanks to all who posted……mega thumbs up men. Italian bikes eh?? If it wasnt such a hoot to ride,I'd a flogged it….very nearly chopped it in for a Speed Triple 1050 yesterday…..very close! Couldnt do it tho……the bastard's got a hold of me!!!
Cheers :)
 
Great thread and info guys, could prove useful to us all - for future reference!
 
×

New Posts