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Have I ****** it? Help!

WhiskyGalore

WhiskyGalore

Joined Sep 2011
73 Posts | 0+
West Highlands
So"¦..the starting problems continue. New Yuasa YTX14 batt fitted. Went for a blast yesterday, bike started OK. Stopped to fill up with petrol and it sounded weak but started, kinda strange I thought! After a fast run, stopped to take a coupla pics, sat back on the bike, thumbed the starter and the bastard didnt have the guts to turn it over!!!! WTF is wrong with this thing"¦"¦had to call the AA, jumped the bike with cables from the recovery guys Range Rover (didnt like the look of his spindly "bike recovery" trailer). So off I went but the bike is now running rough as hell!!!!"¦..really lumpy and flatspots everywhere, went to overtake a car and theres a nasty cut out in ignition at 5k revs, near had me off, so now I have starting probs cos the battery's obviously not charging and its running terrible"¦"¦most unreliable and annoying bike ever"¦"¦total dream to ride, dont get to reide it much tho cos theres always somethin wrong with it? Has the jump start ****** something? Am shittin maself its gonna be a costly one to fix and why the **** wont it start? It was running like a dream before the jump start
Fallin rapidly outa love with my T never had any of this crap with my Jap bikes!! :banghead :bawling
 
Everything about your post would indicate there is a problem in the charging department.
1. Put a meter across the battery when running, should read about 13 to 14 volts.
2. If lower than this, unplug brown connector (there are 3 yellow wires) and check voltages across yellows any yellow to any yellow...should read about 60v a/c at 4000rpms.

Yeah these bikes, they sure do get to you.....it's deffo love and hate for most..lol
 
Tifa said:
Everything about your post would indicate there is a problem in the charging department.
1. Put a meter across the battery when running, should read about 13 to 14 volts.
2. If lower than this, unplug brown connector (there are 3 yellow wires) and check voltages across yellows any yellow to any yellow...should read about 60v a/c at 4000rpms.

Yeah these bikes, they sure do get to you.....it's deffo love and hate for most..lol
Click to expand...

Cheers mate.
Dont have a voltmeter, suppose I'll need to get one, I know **** about electrics though. Dash Voltmeter says 10.2 Volts, though, so theres somethin wrong somewhere.
If its not reading 60v a/c what does that point to? Would this cause the rough running too?
Cheers
 
WG,...I remember you posted about batteries before,..have you bought yourself a decent motorcycle battery charger yet? If so,nip off the battery and charge it overnight.
I assume you have checked the battery terminals are good and tight?
Treat yerself to a digital multimeter from the local tool/car accessory shop.No need for a fancy one,....you can get one that is perfectly adequate for less than a tenner on ebay.
As above,refit the battery and check the terminal voltage.Dont rely on the clock voltmeter,...it tells lies.
The brown connector that Tifa mentioned is on the left hand side of the bike,...sorta behind the oil tank.Follow the stator cables as they come out of the round engine cover to the connector.It could be the connector is faulty.If the connector looks ok check the output voltages as mentioned above.
Any lower than 60v ac,it could be a cooked stator,...and yes it would cause the rough running.
Good luck.
 
hi Keith, yeah I got a smartcharger and a multimeter now. Do I need to remove the battery to give it a charge, will I harm anything charging in situ cos I've done this before when it wouldnt start, with the old charger??…….am slightly worried now I've cooked something myself, is this possibly the root of my problems….if it is I'ma punch myself in the face!!! Will do those other checks once I get the bike charged/running.
Cheers.
 
Sorry you're having problems, you can charge the battery in situ with the smart charger using the lead or clips that come with it. I know what you mean about most unreliable bike ever, mine is having a new seal put into the clutch slave cylinder on Monday then it's going and I'm getting a B King. Good luck.
 
I hope you do get it sorted out mate. The bikes are great when running ok, but so many silly problems with them can really piss you off.
I'm having a few myself and at times think about p/x'ing it for something else, a Tiger 800 maybe.
Good luck
 
Thanks guys, T's on charge for the night while I get pissed with lotsa wine and check out the local bike dealers stock online ;) Will keep yas updated.
Cheers
 
Nar it's completely bolloxed mate best thing to is flog it....

I'll give you £23.56 and half a cheese sarnie I'm digging into?
 
If your engine number is below 8176929 then it's likely that your stator will fail prematurely.
The problem lies with the rotor, not the stator. The earlier rotors simply 'overwork' the stator causing it to burn out.
All motors post 8176929 have the revised rotors, and should be OK.
 
Tifa said:
If your engine number is below 8176929 then it's likely that your stator will fail prematurely.
The problem lies with the rotor, not the stator. The earlier rotors simply 'overwork' the stator causing it to burn out.
All motors post 8176929 have the revised rotors, and should be OK.
Click to expand...
So should I just replace this part as a matter of course and peace of mind, will this cure my bikes starting woes. What do I look for on ebay etc, rotor? stator? will a Milly part fit or is it specific to the T? I ride in some pretty desolate areas and stopping and worrying the bike might not start is not a place I wanna be again…..love the T to bits but this is seriously affecting my confidence to take it anywhere. Thanks for all the info guys……checked the bike this morning still not fully charged so will wait til the avo to check the brown connector…….got a cheapo multimeter that I have no clue how to use, sure I'll figure it out tho……plus am hungover to death lol. Saw a few nice bikes for sale at local-ish dealers!!!!!!! Not goin to give up on T yet tho lol!!!!
 
aprilia sell the stator(coil) and rotar(metal basket) as a single assy but its nearly £600 ,I personally am not convinced that changing the rotar will completely fix the issue but just increase the time before the stator burns out again. suppose you could find a 2nd rotor but would need to defo be from a 2009/2010 to be sure.
this is rotar i bought stick g814 in the search box http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/
I also removed all the connectors and hard wired the stator in . Done 400 miles so far but I expect it will fail again its just when (or where) but you never know might be ok
 
WhiskyGalore said:
hi Keith, yeah I got a smartcharger and a multimeter now. Do I need to remove the battery to give it a charge, will I harm anything charging in situ cos I've done this before when it wouldnt start, with the old charger??…….am slightly worried now I've cooked something myself, is this possibly the root of my problems….if it is I'ma punch myself in the face!!! Will do those other checks once I get the bike charged/running.
Cheers.
Click to expand...

you can charge with the battery in situ with the fused lead ....do not charge it in situ with the croc clips it will fry the alternator
 
Tifa said:
If your engine number is below 8176929 then it's likely that your stator will fail prematurely.
The problem lies with the rotor, not the stator. The earlier rotors simply 'overwork' the stator causing it to burn out.
All motors post 8176929 have the revised rotors, and should be OK.
Click to expand...



Bollocks ,just checked my engine number and its 8176924
 
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