for sale

Give it a go mate - i'm sure it's just a case of getting the settings dialled into you and your style of riding , then once you're there then you'll be happier with it and the confidence on the bike will just come on.

But if you do decide to get a bike for commuting and something that's more comfortable for your missus, then the VFR800 is worth a look. Must admit I was pleasently surprised when I went out on the back of my mates - didn't like the grab handles behind but it was comfortable even for a lanky **** like me and it goes well. Quite a nice compromise between full on sports and a pure tourer. He's just come back from Germany recently and did a couple of laps around the Nurburbring on it and was getting his knee down. irate

i have a good understanding of the setting available and the effects of changing them. thats how i got my R1 sorted....
i'm 95kgs so quite heavy, the front end i've got sorted i think but i know the effects one can have on the other.
my cable tie on the front fork uses 90% of the travel under hard braking and reboud seems firm but not upsetting..
back end has felt vague hence me backing of compression and adding rebound...
i'll spend a few days now adjusting and hope i find something that works

on another note BIG UN is so right, i know a lot is in my head, and i've lost all faith in dunplops - so they'll be going soon

since my last off its been a rollercoaster of confidence - uilds up getting quicker and then BOOM big slide at rear.... confidence back down again......

Looney Tunes said:

Give it a go mate - i'm sure it's just a case of getting the settings dialled into you and your style of riding , then once you're there then you'll be happier with it and the confidence on the bike will just come on.

But if you do decide to get a bike for commuting and something that's more comfortable for your missus, then the VFR800 is worth a look. Must admit I was pleasently surprised when I went out on the back of my mates - didn't like the grab handles behind but it was comfortable even for a lanky **** like me and it goes well. Quite a nice compromise between full on sports and a pure tourer. He's just come back from Germany recently and did a couple of laps around the Nurburbring on it and was getting his knee down. irate

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I go riding with a few guys up our end who gixers 600's, 750's and a couple of 1000's, plus 1 lad on a VFR and he throws that thing all over, and doesn't get left anywere on it, I've seen him with his hero blobs down whilst doing Helmsley TT:doug.

I felt **** after I dropped mine mate and it's taken an age, plus two sets of tyres lol. I started on BT014's, then I went onto Dunlop 208's cause I used to run 207 rr's, but they sucked, nothing like the Dunlops of old and plumped for the Maxxis and there fantastic, and cheap. I know all the tyres these days are good and more or less very similar so it maybe in peoples heads about the rubber they run, however I still think ya can tell the difference in feel and feedback, and these Maxxis have done it for me, feel similar to the 207 rr but better in the wet and sticky as fook, but seem to be lasting.

I was over your side last month Agreat1, did the Kirkstone Pass with a mate, brilliant road and view.:thumbup

yeah some superb roads round ere, bit hairy at the mo though wi old farmer gilles spreading his mcuk everywhere including all over the roads

i'm gonna stick with it for now after all she'll be worth as much next srping as now!!!!

i'll keep yuo all informed if i bin it trying or sort it - hopefully its the latter

If your 95kgs without riding gear on then you are likely too heavy for the stock rear spring.

The standard rear spring is 95nm which is about 550 lbs. The bike weighs 209 Kgs and you probably weigh over a hundred in gear. For arguements sake 309kgs total which is getting on for 680 lbs.

I weigh less than you and i run a 105nm rear spring which transformed the bike.
Your fork settings sound way to soft to me for someone of your weight and i wouldn't mind betting your bike is squating down at the back and not putting enough weight on the front. Hence you run it soft to try and use the travel which also means you might be getting a huge weight transfer when braking and throttle transistions which might account for your loose back end.

Deffo check you static and rider sag. If you need sufficient preload to get a good rider sag that you have very little static sag then you need a new spring.
They are about £35-40 i think from memory.

i was thinking of adding compression, it was my dealer who has raced IOM on the APE told me to use all the travel in the forks, i'll try and stiffent he front up too after all thats how i had my R1
completely agree about the spring, the problem i have is getting the shock out sent off changed and returned when i need the bike every day
need to sort my rider sag out then see if there's 5-10mm static sag
doubt it but i'll try

agreat1 said:

i'll keep yuo all informed if i bin it trying or sort it - hopefully its the latter

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Says it all mate. You aint gonna bin it , your gonna get her dialled in just right for you with a bit of help from peeps on here and 'sort it' as you put it :thumbup:doug

Apologies if this is covering familiar territory but it might rings bells for someone going through the setup process.

Your mate is right. you want to use all the travel but for the right reasons.

If your load is not balanced between front and rear by correct springing/sag you will be compensating for it by damping adjustment.

Before you do anything else get the front/rear sag checked with you on it in full riding gear. A set of leathers etc adds about a stone to your weight so you need to allow for it.
Only then can you determine if your springs are correct for your weight.
If they are not or the sag is just adjusted incorrectly you are never gonna make it handle as it should.

The preload sets the ideal attitude and ride height of the bike for your weight. The damping justs controls how quickly it deviates and returns to that ideal position. Therefore it makes sense that if the bikes attitude is wrong to start with no amount of damping adjustment will correct that.

You need a mate to support the bike so you can get in a riding position with your feet up so your weight is as it would be when riding. Generally there is about 10mm difference in the forks and about 5 in the shock if you measure the sag after compression or rebound which is down to seal stiction so best to average the 2 if you want it spot on.

ok spoonz can i jst confirm

back all compression and damping off or wind it fully on before setting sag
go for 35mm front and 25mm rear

then set compression and damping

push down on yolk and front of rider seat to see if the bike comes up in unison, then test ride and adjust to own liking.....

Back off damping for sag.

The pushing down on the yolk thing never works for me cos you can never get a decent push really. you kind of have to trust that if you set the sag correctly the attitude is ok.

Then set damping and fork height and go ride.

cheers spoonz

ok guys i know this post has been going on some
today i managed to get my suspension base lined as follows
front rider sag 35mm static 26mm
rear rider sag 25mm stsic 4mm
looks like i need a new rear spring
compression and rebound front set to 10 OFI
compression rear 9 rebound 16 OFI

ride out tomorrow to test and adjust as neccessary - will keep you updated

whilst i was at it, i put a 42t rear sprocket on too for a bit more oomph

Your front sag is identical to mine but with 25mm rear sag i have about 11 static.
i am a bit lighter than you but as i said i run a 105nm spring.

4mm rear static is dangerously close to a top out when riding i would think

Just a thought - but would it be worth starting a thread where someone could get it started by listing the various settings, rider weight, bike year model etc and peeps could enter their own settings they use?

Setting up a bike is very much an individual thing but maybe if there are some listed settings to go on then it might be a good starting point for some?

Good idea or complete bollocks? :biggrin

happy to post mine if they are wanted.

Always interested to see the different setups and what works for some and not for others.

ok guys went out today loads better but still not perfect - here's why

adjusted rear rebound 2 more clicks compression and 2 rebound

very happy with whats possible with this setup, but gonna need a better spring (over to you spoonz can you recommend me a part number for a heavier spring for the ohlins rear shock)

think the rear was topping out a bit when braking

so gotta get rid of the dunplops so decided to go back to my racetecs then i reckon we'll be singing

Kais in manchester will get you a spring or might have one. I got mine from them in a few days. They can order direct from Ohlins and don't have to go through Harris.

Or you could try Mark Hammond at MH Racing as he sometimes has used ones kicking about and he's a top bloke. 01225 811583

For reference these are the common spring numbers and approx weight guidlines.

1091-31/95 = 542 lbs per inch, stock on Tuono Racing & RsvR/Factory
1091-34/100 = 571 lbs
1091-36/105 = 600 lb

Now answer me why Aprilia fit a 105 spring as standard on the Sachs shock :dunno