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Fitting Heated Grips

Mike Water

Mike Water

Joined Oct 2010
131 Posts | 0+
West Midlands
I have some new Oxford heated grips to fit on my Gen2 10 plate T:D

Connecting direct to the battery seems fairly simple with a nice little on/off switch that controls heat level as well I am confident that I can do this my self:)

My problem is that I do not like the idea of connecting direct to the battery would prefer get power via an ignition key / switched route............bound to leave the thing switched on when I park up etc.:eek:

I am able to carry out straight forward techy jobs ..........or is this something that I should get a professional to do for me?:confused:

Is there anything that I should worry about in terms of fitting the grips on the bars?
 
Get a relay from a shop, which I would do, or if you interweb it make sure you get a diagram. Relays are nothing to be scared of. Your basically taking a larger fused load through the relay from the battery and the switch you have, powered from elsewhere/anywhere energises the relay to let juice through to the grips. That way when you turn the ignition off the grips go off with everything else. Don't know if that makes sense, but I know what I'm on about ;-)
 
Thanks Nob
Where do you connect the relay do I break into the a live from the ignition?
 
Mike Water said:
I have some new Oxford heated grips to fit on my Gen2 10 plate T:D

Connecting direct to the battery seems fairly simple with a nice little on/off switch that controls heat level as well I am confident that I can do this my self:)

My problem is that I do not like the idea of connecting direct to the battery would prefer get power via an ignition key / switched route............bound to leave the thing switched on when I park up etc.:eek:

I am able to carry out straight forward techy jobs ..........or is this something that I should get a professional to do for me?:confused:

Is there anything that I should worry about in terms of fitting the grips on the bars?
Click to expand...



I fitted mine direct to the battery so run the risk of leaving them on, erm have done that twice now!!, once parked at the top of a hill, so bump started it fine, wont mention the other time...

Nobs is spot on fitting the relay, but i thought the instructions with the grips gave that suggestion?

Any who, my point is when fitting them, dry trial fit them first so you get the wire length perfect, i tucked my control box near the battery and the thermostat clipped to the bar and find the grip wires too long so you need to neatly fold the excess wire, also watch the routing from the grips to the box past the tank, make sure the tank is not obscured and closes properly.

The throttle side, once the old grip is off, you will need to cut off the nobbly bits from the plastic tube and I trimmed the plastic sloping collar towards the inside of the grip so it sat more flush otherwise the grip fitted too far over the end of the bar and the bar end wouldn't fit correctly.

easy enough took me 1 1/2 hours and am fairly happy with them always run them 70 or 100% setting, you will find the clutch side wont be as warm as the throttle side because the alloy handle bar will suck some of the heat away.
 
See, you ask, we provide. happy days. The feed for the switch can come from the lights I suppose, its a minimal current draw and for milli seconds. The relay does the hard bit. Basicaly using a relay enables you to use a tiny switch to switch a bigger switch and load on safely. Good tip about the mock up AR.

Like if say you went in to Asda and switched every light on, the switch would frazzle. So you a switch to switch a contactor on which is similar to a relay which in turn switches all the lights on.

Can't believe Garry hasn't pounced on this btw.
 
Gen II Tuono's use a can bus electrical system,so yer cant just splice into say,ign s/w or lighting feeds.Everything is controlled by the ecu and all the switches do is send signals to the ecu and tell it to do something,.....like switch on the indicators,etc.My mate had a tow bar and socket fitted to his Peugot van.The fitter spliced into the wiring loom and when they connected the trailer,it fooked all the wiring.
There probably is a 12v feed somewhere on the bike you could use,f'instance a lighting relay or mebbe the horn.Without studying the wiring diagram,...I'm only guessing.Best bet is come direct off the battery,and try to remember to switch off the grips when you reach journeys end.
 
Keith B said:
Gen II Tuono's use a can bus electrical system,so yer cant just splice into say,ign s/w or lighting feeds.Everything is controlled by the ecu and all the switches do is send signals to the ecu and tell it to do something,.....like switch on the indicators,etc.My mate had a tow bar and socket fitted to his Peugot van.The fitter spliced into the wiring loom and when they connected the trailer,it fooked all the wiring.
There probably is a 12v feed somewhere on the bike you could use,f'instance a lighting relay or mebbe the horn.Without studying the wiring diagram,...I'm only guessing.Best bet is come direct off the battery,and try to remember to switch off the grips when you reach journeys end.
Click to expand...

Agreed, was thinking more along the lines of finding the feed to say the flashers just after the fusebox. you can tell I'm domestic though eh :)
 
Many thanks for all of the help guys - think I will have a go at fitting once I take the bike off the road for the winter.

Still don't want to wire straight off the battery I know I will forget to switch off.

I am the bloke who forgets he put the disc lock on a tries to ride off.

Good job you commented on not splicing into the ignition wiring as that is just what I was going to do - saved me some problems by the sound of it - thanks again
 
Mike Water said:
Many thanks for all of the help guys - think I will have a go at fitting once I take the bike off the road for the winter.

Still don't want to wire straight off the battery I know I will forget to switch off.

I am the bloke who forgets he put the disc lock on a tries to ride off.

Good job you commented on not splicing into the ignition wiring as that is just what I was going to do - saved me some problems by the sound of it - thanks again
Click to expand...

Be a MAN, get some snickers and winter gloves.
 
Aldo said:
Be a MAN, get some snickers and winter gloves.
Click to expand...
LMAO Yeah man up ;) ,O beter still fit hand gards ,off a Dorsadrearey'O and som Elecktrick heated gloves ! ,and they call us shandy drinkers in the sowth , get hard Man , heated grips on a Tuono its just not Done :p .

Iff you must do IT you winter wuss , take the pawere from one of your frunt side light coneckters ,thats safe then ;)
 
Be a MAN, get some snickers and winter gloves.

No Problem with riding in the winter I just dont like what the salt does to the bike.:mad:

Besides I'm getting on in years and the arth'r...itis in the knees is gettin bad:(
 
Mike Water said:
No Problem with riding in the winter I just dont like what the salt does to the bike.:mad:

Besides I'm getting on in years and the arth'r...itis in the knees is gettin bad:(
Click to expand...

This might sound a touch impolite but whit the feck does the above huv to do wae heated grips, yer gonae wrap them roon yer nees?
 
garry said:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Symtec-Heated...853813&cguid=fc91eb3811f0a0aad5b4e784ff447ac7

symtecs the way forward lads... and you use yer own grips, not them feckin made of owd wood things from oxford.
Click to expand...

they wouldnt fit on the throttle side cos of the ridges on the aprilia

saw some years ago by oxford that just wrapped around the outside of your grips held by velcro
and you just took em off when you didnt need them,leaving the wire in place
always thought that was a good idea
 
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The ridges on the throttle tube scrape off easily with a stanley blade, had to do it when fitting the renthal grips as you could see the ridges through the rubber.
 
Keith B said:
Gen II Tuono's use a can bus electrical system,so yer cant just splice into say,ign s/w or lighting feeds
Click to expand...

The Ape CAN BUS system doesn't include the lights, its just between the ECU & dash.

You can take the relay switching supply from either the rear light feed or one of the front side light feeds without affecting anything. (I have taken power from both these areas on both bikes for GPS feeds, Radio comms, electronic oilers etc.)

The BEST place to splice in to switch a potentially large load would be the headlight low beam feed. This doesn't become live until the engine is running, so it wont affect starting.
 
Aha,I knew someone would come up with the definetive answer,....well done Paul.
sHa_clap3.gif
 
So, you know, there's always YA solution:
http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

Friend of mine has one on his Duc, I think it's the perfect answer to can'ing the CAN. Take one tap off of the battery,
then run all your accessories to it. You can run them fused-switched or fused-unswitched, plus it has a built-in relay,
and it's small. I likes it.
Cheers!
 
Just done Oxfords meself and had exactly the same questions. In the end I used a relay - about £2.50 from Maplin - and took a control feed from the numberplate light. The relay sits snug in the little recess by the fusebox, just behind the battery. It was straighforward once I'd decided exactly where to put everything.

As others have already mentioned - when fitting the grip on the throttle side you need to shave off the high spots on the plastic throttle tube. I also reemed out the end of the throttle grip a little to to stop it binding on the bar end. I fitted the switch on the back of the fairing panel, just to the left of the speedo using the sticky backing that comes with it. The biggest challenge is tidying up the wiring between the switch and the grips as there is far too much.

I'll post some photos if you're interested.
 
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