Yes, I'm waiting for the glue to dry. No, not bored, just have a few problems I need to solve. I have a member trying to answer a question for me and it seems it is not off the top of the head so that means a rare, possible
Code:
problem.
This thread deals with fault codes, why they happen, how to solve them, how to ignore them. I am no expert so those that would like to contribute or correct the OP during these entries, we can keep bringing up fault codes, see why they happened, and hopefully, what abstract you read, WATT is said, how it was caused, and so forth.
If you know any trick you solved, have a source page for codes so everyone can follow along, it is a process of elimination that sort of works like the 3-engine amigos [fuel-spark-compression].
It is more you die memorizing 3 more fundamental clues of well over 20 groups of 3's. These 3-electrical amigos, if you excuse the abstract, are the next step, if 'spark' happens to lift its ugly head. The root cause are usually these 3 simple clues:
#1. Connector not connected.
#2. Wire out of connector.
#3. Short to ground or open.
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When you mod, you are going to work with a 'jobber' or say work with whatever is in between the wire and connector. Stated another way, look at a lamp. That light bulb is the jobber. It does the "JOB" of giving off light.
You can choose whatever abstract works for you, but watt I am describing is the fundamental walk you take, entering a code. Lets walk through an example:
- I have a SERVICE code or FI light and the code is 44 - stepper motor. I just removed my flapper valve w/sensor. The lack of the flapper valve sensor is that jobber = (1-amigo). It can't be a wire out. It can't be a good know sensor I just unplugged. Simple was that diagnosis, correct?
My mod is now with a dash code. The question is, 'Should I buy a flapper valve sensor and just connect it ( with nothing else) to clear this fault?' Yes and no.
'Do I buy and replace the full flapper valve assembly?' No.
'Or can I bypass this sensor and if so how? A resistor or?' No.
'I did a search, found someone else
had the intake flap solenoid removed. They replaced it with a (?) ohm resistor.' Search all you want. Did you move the jobber out of the loop? Did you remove bulb and now the dash is dark. No go. Here is the joy stick vs. the ohm number. A stepper is a step. It might as well be a 3-way bulb = Closed-Mid-WOT. How can the ECU read 3-steps with one ohm resistoread = Code!
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The Mod Remote Solved:
We now remove the door off the stepper. This is our air gate or the speed that lets the event happen slower. We now have full access to all the air that can flow with the door removed-w/door rod. Therefore, we carefully remove the door off the stepper. Rod is removed, making careful the rod and door are the sacrifice; not the stepper. Tamper with the [stepper] housing, it might come apart and render the stepper useless; replace the jobber = (#3).
(#1) ~ Connector not connected is that we reconnected the stepper with the correct input. Then, ask yourself if the ECU can recognize the 3 openings, not the one ohm number that shorts to ground [even] to make the resister work. A resistor is a 1-number input signal. Like, pick a open spot of the door? WOT happens when you throttle off? That ECU has to read one input, the next input of the other sensors. It is a balance of numbers; if we walk something as complex as this. However, it walks too simple like this.
So would not reconnecting to the jobber's 3-steps again [is the abstract]; knows if that door is opening or closing if the stepper's rod end is air-guitar-ing? Nope. It's is stepping to the TPS's music = NO CODE.
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Notice how the ECU expects a wall socket type of [rheostat] dim to bright light; is that TPS = Many numbers of input a single resistor cannot accomplish. The same will apply to many of the sensors on the bike. Some sensors are needed. Most are not. But then again, when it codes, so goes the HP. It saves the engine so it sets a limp for each code.
Something like; the wrong resistor could not turn the fan on and now watt? Each system has an [override-limp-backup] and you can exploit it to a point. If you have a failed mod that throws a code... Bang it off this thread... Sea watt weeds out all those variables, because it sure is not one fish in the see that acts the same, looks the same, quacks the same... etc.
