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Engine noises again!

S

stuuk

Joined Jul 2008
44 Posts | 0+
Guisborough, North Yorks
Hi Guys

I know I have brought this up before and an Aprilia dealer mechanic has said my bike sounds normal but engine noises are still bugging me.
I'm beginning to wonder if the dealer mechanic heard the sound I am hearing.

When my engine has warmed up I hear a definate heavy tappety sound thats in tune with the engine. I can hear it the most on the overun from about 5k and down but it is there all the time at low revs but seems to disapear after 5k or maybe just gets too high frequency to hear gets drowned in the general engine noise.

The best way to describe it is as if a ball bearing is bouncing around on top of one of the pistons. Its still very audible even with the aftermaket can I have fitted.

Is this genuinley normal for the Mille engine?



I tried the old screwdriver/stethoscope test while the engine was ticking over and the base and upper parts of each cylinder both sounded the same and I couldnt really pinpoint where the noise is coming from.

Cheers

Stu
 
Where do you live(doesn't show on your profile) :dunno maybe someone near you could pop over to compare noises :biggrin they are generally noisy so maybe your mechanic is right :thumbup
 
sounds familiar. Mine turned out to be a the black cylindrical one way valve thingy me bob at the back of the engine under the front seat. Take the seat off and follow the sound. If it takes you to that it's quite normal.
 
Stuuk,

You could always do a video or sound recording and attach it to the thread, we can all then listen and give you sound advice!!!!
 
Hi guys

I'm in Guisborough, Cleveland, north Yorks area.

I'll have a go at recording the sound but it only really clatters when im riding the bike

There was a guy at whitby today with a Tuono and his sounded similar to mine at idle and free revving

Don't know whether im just being paranoid but its really bugging me

I think the only way i'll convince myself the bike is ok is if I can ride somebody elses or they ride mine and compare - so if anyone around the north yorks/teesside area would be happy to meet up i'd be eternally grateful

Stu
 
I know this may sound obvious but have you checked your chain tension. The chain can slap a little if it's a little loose. Don't over tighten though, about an inch play up and down fine in the middle of the chain run. Also check the rear sprocket is tight and you haven't got excessive play between the chain and rear sprocket, i'e pull the chain away from the sprocket. Also if you have a paddock stand, raise the rear and spin the back wheel, if the crush drive rubbers get very dry and brittle you'll hear a knocking sound when you spin the back wheel. I'm not saying this is your problem but may be worth checking as you have indicated you can only hear the noise when actually on the move
 
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stuuk said:
Hi guys

I'm in Guisborough, Cleveland, north Yorks area.

I'll have a go at recording the sound but it only really clatters when im riding the bike

There was a guy at whitby today with a Tuono and his sounded similar to mine at idle and free revving

Don't know whether im just being paranoid but its really bugging me

I think the only way i'll convince myself the bike is ok is if I can ride somebody elses or they ride mine and compare - so if anyone around the north yorks/teesside area would be happy to meet up i'd be eternally grateful

Stu
Click to expand...

Could meet up at Teesdale bikes in Thirsk over the weekend if you want :dunno
 
Legs, I was typing exactly the same as you.

Mine had about 2" of free play and it sounded like the engine was going to fall out.

Used to really slap and rattle when I was slowing down at roundabouts and junctions, made the bike vibrate too it was that bad.

Fair play to the guy that sold it to me, he had just had fitted a new DID chain and sprocket set and warned me it would need adjusting after a 100 miles or so.
 
Hi

Thanks for the reply but the noise def seems to be coming from the engine.

As soon as i got the bike 2 weeks ago i changed oil, filters, plugs for iridiums and adj the chain, the old oil looked pretty good with no metal in it so i think it must have been recently serviced before i bought it.
 
amb, yeah chain tension is quite critical on RSV and as you say it can cause a bit of a rattle. A loose chain also makes finding neutral a pain. New chains will always stretch a tad when new. My DID X ring was the same, but after a few hundred miles it bedded in and hardly needs touching now apart from a good clean and relube every 500 miles or so

Stu, may still be worth checking though as the noise can transmit up through the frame
 
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Stuuk,

You haven't got a Power Commander fitted to your RSV, have you?

Couple of more questions too:

Does it cut out sometimes when approaching junctions/roundabouts?

Does the idle speed fluctuate?

What mods have been done?

e.g. ECU wire snipped, airbox modded, etc......

Just trying to build a picture in my mind of what condition your RSV is in so I can give you the right advice.
 
Hi Amb

When I got the bike 2 weeks ago it was completely standard 2003 model rsv r on an 04 plate, it had appx 8600 miles on the clock and i've put about 400 on it in the last two weeks.

The original can still had the cone baffle at the start of the link pipe but i have put a carbon can company can and link pipe on it now.

The restrictor had already been removed from the bottom of the airbox but no ecu wires had been cut. From the research i've done on here i dont think the ecu wire needs to be cut as the later ecus have the same maps.

No power commander
Idle is steady
Its never stalled

I've been aware of the noises i am trying to describe for as long as i've had the bike but i dont think they are getting any worse
The main tapping / ball bearing in a can sound i hear only seems to become really prominent when the bike has fully warmed up.
Engine seems fit otherwise but again havent really got another one to compare it with but from my experience with other bikes power seems consistent with stated bhp

Stu
 
OK,

Would you say that the tapping/rattle is the same speed as the engine or perhaps double the speed of the engine?

I'm thinking it could be a valve clearance issue?

Alternatively you could be hearing the injectors working, you can hear mine ticking away when I put my quiet exhaust on. (Which is once a year - MOT) :pirate
 
If it were me i would go back to the dealer ( hope it's not the one in Newcastle :roll ) one more time and express your concern about the noise and also make sure that you have your warranty in order.
Then go out and thrash the arse off it, if it goes pop then he fixes it, if it doesn't then its nothing to worry about :thumbup
 
Difficult to say
Fairly rapid even at low rpms and turns into a kind of whurring note above 5k or 6k

If it is a valve clearance the gap must be about 5mm as it sounds quite heavy

If it was something serious wouldnt the engine have destroyed itself by now?
I havent exactly been taking it easy, i give it quite a blast once she's warmed up

Its difficult to describe in that it is in sync with the engine but there is a slight randomness about it as it tends to come and go in intensity

I know im not making a lot of sense
 
Think the best thing to do is to compile a little video of when it happens so that we can all listen to it.

It may be nothing but then again it may be something that can be fixed now and stopped before it does let go and destroy your engine.

If you don't have a fancy vid cam just use your mobile phone, anythings better than nothing.
 
Hi Guys

Thanks for all the replies

Tried recording the noises but dont have good enough equipment

Noises are still spoiling my enjoyment of the bike

Still getting low rpm loud rattle tappety type noise which seems to turn into a warbling whirling sound after 5krpm then seems to disappear in the general engine noise after 6k.

Def isnt chain as i get the same noise at standstill or noises go if i pull the clutch at speed and let the engine idle.

Sometimes the low rpm noise sounds like ball bearings bouncing around other times like a slapping or clatter.

Are there any other owners going to be in the general N. Yorks / Teesside are today (Sunday) that wouldnt mind meeting somewhere and having a go on my bike?

Thanks
 
OK, think we are getting somewhere now.

So the noise goes when you pull the clutch lever in!

So the noise has to be in the clutch mechanicals or gearbox - my advise is to take it to an Aprilia dealer or an Aprilia specialist.

Actually diagnosing this is going to have to be done by someone who knows the bikes otherwise it is a case of throwing parts at it until it stops.

First thing to do though is to make sure your idle speed is correct - too low and the clutch rattles and knocks like a good one. If that's ok then get it to a specialist or mechanical friend.
 
Hi Amb

I think you misunderstood

When I said the noise goes when I pull the clutch in I meant at speed and idle.

Ie I pulled the clutch doin 70mph let the engine idle and checked the noise

The noise went back down to the slow tap tap tap at tickover even at 70mph so i know the noise is not in the drive train.

I'm going to try and find some other mille's /tuono's today and have a good listen to them.

Does anyone know if its safe to pull the cam chain tensioner plunger if the cylinder isnt at tdc on its firing stroke.
Haynes says the cylinder should be at tdc to remove the cam tensioner in case the chain slips. This would mean removing the valve covers to confirm both valves are closed.
On other bikes its usually safe to pull the cam chain tensioner at any position as long as you dont move the engine while its out.

I'm just trying to look at the easiest things to try first

Thanks
 
The reason they say do it at TDC is because there is much less tension on the chain at that point. If not done at TDC as soon as you pull out the tensioner the tight chain will suddenly become slack and run the risk of jumping on the gears.

It's your call but i wouldn't.

Do the rear cylinder first as it's much much easier to get to and usually the first to fail. It will still have some tension when cold as it has a safety spring in it to stop it collapsing should pressure fail.

Usual thing with them is they will stick half way out so you only get partial tensioning of the chain.
 
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