eeek! Brakes (?) trying to kill me!

I have just had this problem happen to me on saturday night with the rear brake on my 2006 tuono r phoned up aprillia and they have told me to take the bike to Tazz in peterborough to have the sytem re-bled, as Aprilla have found a problem and they need to bleed system in some special way...sounds like ******** to me , but as its still under warranty I have no option, I will also post what happens tomorrow, or whenever they let me have the bike back....But since ive been round bikes for 40 years, I think there is a problem with the master cylinder, or the brembo calipers on these bikes are crap

are you sure its the front brake thats the problem, (as tylercodie says) the rear brake master cylinder is a known problem that causes rear brake to jam on, brembo brakes are good quality but in this case there has always been a problem with the rear mc probably a combination of heat and vibration !

majorjam said:

are you sure its the front brake thats the problem, (as tylercodie says) the rear brake master cylinder is a known problem that causes rear brake to jam on, brembo brakes are good quality but in this case there has always been a problem with the rear mc probably a combination of heat and vibration !

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If it was the rear, would it not lock the wheel? Its some pretty serious braking.

UPDATE
Ive had my brakes done at Tazz and they said the rod ajustment was not right going into the mastercylinder, and the rear calliper had siezed, well if that had siezed why does it work on its own I asked....welllllll it had air in the caliper and when it got hot it expanded........well I asked how does it get hot if im not breaking, and on a straight road...wellllthere was air in the master cylinder as well and as its behind the fairing it get warm from the engine and that causes the expanded air to push fluid to the calliper....But I ask if the calliper is siezed how does it move and eventually release itself....well mate you owe us £73 for bleeding your brakes there's the door bye ...so for a new set of pads and a little brake fluid and a spin round peterborough, i forked out £73 not bad for 30 mins work

Air expansion can do some funny things at times (especially hot air expansion)

was out in the garage earlier tonight and was removing paint from my fluid reservoir cap.


I noticed that under the rubber seal in the cap, it has channels cut into it to allow it to adjust to different pressures/ vacumm etc.

Now if a fuel cap vent gets block it stops fuel flowing, and causes no end of running problems, so i was wondering if your channels in either the cap itself or the rubber not being seated correctly could cause the problems that your experiencing.

Between the cap and seal on mine, it had corrosion deposits which i have cleaned out with brake cleaner and a small wire brush and toothbrush.

Just letting you know what i found on mine and thought i would pass it along as it could make sense if your brakes are seemingly applying themselves whilst your in motion with the fluid swilling around in the reservoir.

good luck and keep us posted please.

tylercodie said:

UPDATE
Ive had my brakes done at Tazz and they said the rod ajustment was not right going into the mastercylinder, and the rear calliper had siezed, well if that had siezed why does it work on its own I asked....welllllll it had air in the caliper and when it got hot it expanded........well I asked how does it get hot if im not breaking, and on a straight road...wellllthere was air in the master cylinder as well and as its behind the fairing it get warm from the engine and that causes the expanded air to push fluid to the calliper....But I ask if the calliper is siezed how does it move and eventually release itself....well mate you owe us £73 for bleeding your brakes there's the door bye ...so for a new set of pads and a little brake fluid and a spin round peterborough, i forked out £73 not bad for 30 mins work

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1st of April is a couple of weeks away:confused

i don't believe that for one minute mate, IMO you been had:exclamation

I think my problem was a combination of low pads, and then calliper sticking, and rod ajustment into the master cylinder, my cap was clean, rubber seal good on cap, fluid good ....so now with new pads (note old ones were still ok) pushing the calliper cylinders back in aligned them up properly, or freed them...so now all is ok for now

i noticed on mine when i serviced the brakes that one of the pads had corroded itself to the piston, and ended up prying it off with a screwdriver.

My front brakes have always felt like i had a warped disc with juddering when braking, but have now freed up all the bobbins and removed all the nasty red paint/blue paint from them, and the calipers and now just have to fit it all back onto the bike.

i would suggest you take it easy for a while if you only think you have solved your problem, as problems seem to have a nasty habit of biting people on the bum when they least expect it, good luck