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Diag 11 & 12 Driving Me Nuts!

Joined Dec 2011
6 Posts | 0+
East Sussex
Hi everyone, this is my first post and like most new members it is regarding a drama with the bike.

I recently purchased a 2002 RSV Mille it is my first bike and on the handful of times I have ridden it I love it and its noise!

However, I went to start it the other day and it tried to fire and then would not start. All that happens is a whizzing noise from the fuel pump and a click when I press the start button. The Diag codes it gives up are 11 and 12, the Cam sensor and Crank Shaft sensor. Both of which I have checked and are both around 230 Ohms, fine according to the Haynes manual.

I re charged the battery and tried again; still the same problems, but I put a link across the starter relay and the bike starts! I checked the relay, it has the required resistance and when 12 volts are put to it I hear a click.

In an old post someone talks about the side stand sensor, but the amber light is on the dash like it should so I am not sure if this is part of the problem.

Please can someone HELP, as I am at the end of what little mechanical know how i have and the prospect of spending more than the bike is worth at a garage, is getting ever closer.
 
Hi mate. I cant be of much help diagnosing the actual problem on this one I`m afraid. But do not fear!
Someone on here will know (a bit new to the RSV world myself)
Its sounds like something that would be sorted by doing all the "essential" mods that have evolved for these over time. They have a number of mucho italiano issues. such as
-50amp starter solenoid, when apparently it draws 100.... (replacment 100-150 amp plug and play £25 from wemoto)
-Crap wiring for the charging system, a resistance issue and flow issue, requiring two little wiring mods to sort out for about £12 in bits
-Dodgy sidestand switch which can be bypassed yet retaining the dash warning light function for stand down.
-Mincey little 12bx battery, normally replaced with a 14bx for better cold cranking
-Fragile sprag clutches. Basically only a problem when the bike doesnt start and "kicks back" unwinding the spring in the sprag I believe. So doing all the other mods should give the sprag an easier time, but if it does properly let go, or if you want it uprated anyway there are bmw and I believe ktm parts that will fit and I gather abit more sturdy...

I wouldnt be surprised if your problem is covered by one of those.

You could try reading my "winter mods list please" thread where I have been gathering info on all essential (and some non essential) mods to make these bikes as reliable as they are fun, to work through over winter.

By the way welcome to the site, where abouts you based?
Steve :thumbup
 
Wow, cheers for the speedy reply mate, it appears that I am guilty as charged on at least 2 counts!

The battery is a 10 AH and the starter solenoid could well be the original pants one - about to order replacements for both!

I am going to have a proper check of the side stand and ignition coils 2row eve. The thing that really gets my goat is that it started fine when i got the thing but after a handful of rides and a charged battery it just says NO!

P.S. I am from Newhaven mate.
 
If mine has less than 12v by the dash, it wont fire, and they dont bump....
Mine is also currently oem ***** bits, in the process of sorting it all for summer ;)
good luck with it, I would do the other bits and start with a topped up charge before you even bother with the coils, dont think they are usually an issue :thumbup
 
new battery and solenoid for starters as the oe is poor.

check earth strap is tight on the engine and the battery .
the live at the starter too and battery (plus the solenoid connections)

if the pump primes id say the stand switch is fine as it stops the pump working.

get a 14 battery and a 100 amp solenoid as stated and you should be good to go.

i also added another earth strap from the battery to the frame and that works well too (think my oe strap is a bit dodgy as its foooooking awkward to access on the rear cylinder to clean it properly)

welcome and enjoy the bike there very good at just about everything:thumbup
 
If the relay clicks it shows you are getting power to it when you press the button & if the engine only turns over by shorting out the solenoid it's fried inside, mate :thumbup
 
Cheers guys, I have just ordered the solenoid and a YTX14 Battery, so that is that part sorted. I will take a look at the earth strapping, but I am still not sure why those Diag codes come up and not one for the starter solenoid!

Once again cheers for the info.
 
Cheers guys, I have just ordered the solenoid and a YTX14 Battery, so that is that part sorted. I will take a look at the earth strapping, but I am still not sure why those Diag codes come up and not one for the starter solenoid!

Once again cheers for the info.

codes wont show up a dodgy starter or solenoid as they are for the sensors ie air throttle crank cam etc .

once you have a good battery and a good earth and feed i think you will be ok

good practice to get into on all bikes is to have a good spray around with wd40 etc so any damp is removed and cleaning connections is also a good practice as they do corrode and cause weak connections so you end up with annoying issues .

you can tell if there bad as they go a nice green color inside the block connectors so you just remove the scale so its clean brass color again .
you an apply eletrile greas too if you want to help keep the winter damp out .

a set of micro files is a good thing in the tool kit for cleaning dirty terminals etc (but do disconnect the battery first so you dont short anything)

hth
 
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Get in :doug, it worked! Fitted a YTX 14 battery and said Starter Solenoid and it fired first time, even managed a cheeky ride. Slight problem in that the new battery is taller than the old one and the battery clamp wont fit, so I will have to find some M6 threaded rod and spacers.

Next job is to change both the Valve Cover gaskets as they seem to be leaking oil and the engine is a mess! Well with the naff weather approaching I am sure that there will be plenty of time.

Once again lads, cheers for the suggestions and info :thumbup
 
Get in :doug, it worked! Fitted a YTX 14 battery and said Starter Solenoid and it fired first time, even managed a cheeky ride. Slight problem in that the new battery is taller than the old one and the battery clamp wont fit, so I will have to find some M6 threaded rod and spacers.

Next job is to change both the Valve Cover gaskets as they seem to be leaking oil and the engine is a mess! Well with the naff weather approaching I am sure that there will be plenty of time.

Once again lads, cheers for the suggestions and info :thumbup

spacer is easy and dont forget the seat holds it too.

as for the gaskets that's common and shows its likely the valves are ok

good clean and a service and id say you got a good un bud
 
hi i dont know how to start a new post but my rsv mille 98 model started leaking fuel after i got back from filling up so took panels of and it was coming out from fuel pump hole at the rear think its the overflow any way it wont turn over now as when i push the button the fuel pump turns on and when i connect the fualt code wires for a split second 0016 comes on then its just 0 any ideas guys
 
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