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Collapsing rear suspension RSVR

I used high performance, bearing grease which is suitable for high temps.

Marine grease has been recommended.

My understanding is as long as it is water proof, high temp and suitable for use on bearings go for it :thumbup
 
So, I ordered a pair of the uprated AF1 link plates from the US @ $59.99 + $40 shipping = $99 (£66). Pricey I thought, but probably a very worthwhile mod. Now I've had to pay import charges of £27.21 ($41.15) - almost 70% of the net value of the contents. In total, these things have cost me more that 93 quid ($141)!!!

They better be bloody worth it! :dowhat
 
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Also, the parcel was sent on March the 20th but I haven't received it in time for the Easter weekend when I was hoping to get the work done. Not happy :pirate
 
That's hard to bare mate. That's probably why I've never taken the plunge to order kit from the U.S. incase this happened.
 
Tuono Lowering Kit, RSV1000R Lowering Kit, RSVR Lowering Kit, Tuono Lowering Link, RSV1000 Lowering Link

This happened to me as well. Full Aprilia service 18 month old, that and my fork seals went and the stator packed up. Not a good year. But all fixed now. They don't just break either. One side will snap off first and you can be driving the bike around for months before the other side breaks off. Just need to keep an eye on it thats all. If you see it cracking just replace it. That said, I didn't know about it but the Aprilia mechanics knew about it so I questioned them why weren't they checking it.

Any road this is what I fitted instead and just did away with all that checking and maintenance. Life time guarantee and made of stainless steel with replaceable bearings. Not that you should ever need to replace them on this.

I didn't bother with the adjuster bit. Just wound it right in to be as strong as possible and got my ride height how I wanted it using the spring.

There is an annoying bolt that you have to put through from the exhaust side, which you cannot get out with the exhaust on there. Well I can't do it with mine on any road. I threw my bolt away once I had got it out. It doesn't actually screw in to anything on the exhaust side so just put a normal hex bolt through from the other side and put a lock nut on the exhaust side. That way you can take the bolt off as many times as you like without having to remove the exhaust. You will need to make up a spacer from somewhere 21mm long the same thickness as the original bolt spacer. Some guy in an engineering place made me a spacer for nothing in his lunch hour. It needs to be 21mm or a bit longer so the nut clears the suspension mounting and only presses down on the spacer only. Which in turn presses down on the linkage spacer.

RSVR Factory 08
 
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Tuono Lowering Kit, RSV1000R Lowering Kit, RSVR Lowering Kit, Tuono Lowering Link, RSV1000 Lowering Link

This happened to me as well. Full Aprilia service 18 month old, that and my fork seals went and the stator packed up. Not a good year. But all fixed now. They don't just break either. One side will snap off first and you can be driving the bike around for months before the other side breaks off. Just need to keep an eye on it thats all. If you see it cracking just replace it. That said, I didn't know about it but the Aprilia mechanics knew about it so I questioned them why weren't they checking it.

Any road this is what I fitted instead and just did away with all that checking and maintenance. Life time guarantee and made of stainless steel with replaceable bearings. Not that you should ever need to replace them on this.

I didn't bother with the adjuster bit. Just wound it right in to be as strong as possible and got my ride height how I wanted it using the spring.

There is an annoying bolt that you have to put through from the exhaust side, which you cannot get out with the exhaust on there. Well I can't do it with mine on any road. I threw my bolt away once I had got it out. It doesn't actually screw in to anything on the exhaust side so just put a normal hex bolt through from the other side and put a lock nut on the exhaust side. That way you can take the bolt off as many times as you like without having to remove the exhaust. You will need to make up a spacer from somewhere 21mm long the same thickness as the original bolt spacer. Some guy in an engineering place made me a spacer for nothing in his lunch hour. It needs to be 21mm or a bit longer so the nut clears the suspension mounting and only presses down on the spacer only. Which in turn presses down on the linkage spacer.

RSVR Factory 08

That lowering link from Soupy's is not the answer. They are flawed in their design and fail spectacularly. From your post over on AF1 it looks like you already found that out.
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Disaster averted

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Dangerous suspension linkage - please read !!!!!!!!!

albrown001 said:
Tuono Lowering Kit, RSV1000R Lowering Kit, RSVR Lowering Kit, Tuono Lowering Link, RSV1000 Lowering Link

This is the link to a product that I have bought that has failed on me. I have since had it examined at by 3 separate engineers and all 3 have immediately told me that the product is not fit for purpose purely by design. This failed on me at 110mph. It was sold to me by the company as being as strong if not stronger than the original with no breakages to date. This product is unsafe because of its design. The original aprilia suspension linkage fails through lack of maintenance expanding the joint around the bearings through corrosion. This fails because the mounting points are not in line. There is approximately 80kg or weight on the back wheel of an aprilia and aproximately 70 kg or weight on top of that with one rider. Combine that with say hitting a bump an 100mph the weight applied to the back wheel is massive. If you combine that with length of the swing arm the forces applied to the link are absolutely tremendous and the forces applied to this link are at an angle because the mounting points are not in line. Any engineer can do the maths for you and tell you that its not fit for purpose. This product has not being tests correctly at all.

The standard aprilia suspension links normally break on you, if they break that is, when you are going reasonalby slow. This will not break until you are going really fast. I broke this link and I was one up after it had only been fitted to the bike for a amount of short time.

I have emailed the company 2 times now and they haven't even bothered to reply after nearly costing me my life and selling me a product that is not fit for purpose. Anyone who has one of these fitted should remove it and replace it with the standard one as it will break on you at some point.

The bikes back tire has melted though the friction caused going 110mph down to a standstill, the rear carbon hugger is shagged and my fariing underneath has all the paint taken off it and is gouged out now. That and the fact that I nearly died 2 days ago. I am not very happy

Avoid this product like the plague as it will break on you at some point otherwise you risk serious injury or even death. Pass this message on to as many sites in your county as possible to limit anyone getting hurt. I have been advised by members of other Aprilia forums in the UK and trading standards to post this around as many forums over there and elsewhere to get the word out to hopefully save this happening to some of you or anyone else.
 
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Dan have you found an alternative linkage or just stick to the aprilia oem?

I have over 55,000 miles on the OEM linkage on my 1999 (sold in the US as a 2000 model) RSV Mille. I inspect and re-grease all the bearings in the link plates/ dogbone yearly and have never had an issue with them. In my experience when maintained properly the OEM setup on Gen 1 bikes works well and lasts a long time.
 
A number of people have put grease fittings or Zerks on the linkage along with replacing the link plates on Gen 2 bikes (OEM Gen2 link plates are not as strong as those on Gen 1 bikes) to make maintenance easier. Here are some threads on the other forum on the subject.

Grease nipples in rear suspension linkage?

DanV990 said:
Noel put zerks on his dogbone. The first link below tells you how he did it. The other links are for some more threads on greasing the dogbone if you want to do some more reading.

dogbone-conrod lubing

Wheel bearing removal and other questions.

Dogbone Greasing - Page 4

Rear susp linkage grease seals

wear on suspension plates and bearings - Page 4
 
Somehow i thought you would say that :)

I think its one of them things people are a little scared of doing themselves so leave it and forget about it, and really i was one of them until last week. Its so straight forward theres nothing to be intimidated by.
 
Cool gave me some bedtime reading there

I will be sticking to oem but i like reading about alternatives
 
That lowering link from Soupy's is not the answer. They are flawed in their design and fail spectacularly. From your post over on AF1 it looks like you already found that out.

Yes I did m8 and it has failed on a lot of people over in the US too. Believe it or not, there is no EU law for online sales so Soupy's can sell as many of them as he wants on sites like ebay and it can't be stopped and there is nothing that I can do or anyone else. F'ing bureaucracy. These links cannot be stopped from being sold no matter how many accidents happen or if people get killed and if it happens to anyone in the EU there are no laws what so ever to protect them. What is that all about?

I have had it inspected by a number of engineers now and they are all furious over it, because the design of it there is no way it is capable of withstanding the forces involved and yet because the company is in the US you have no legal right what so ever to hold them responsible for it so they can do what they want.
 
Whats the best grease to use

Putoline now do aa nice size 100g tube of blue "water proof racing grease for bearings and linkages". (Just Google that on eBay). In the UK it's about £4.95 including postage.

NB: Not the Lithium based one.

Just used it on my linkage bearings and seems ideal for the job.
 
With the Teflon washers also applied (sold by Spooky on Tuonozone, and probably here too) to keep water and crud out, plus waterproof grease, some riders claim regreasing isn't necessary more than once every two or three years. Which stands to reason, especially if bike is only used in fair weather.

Appreciate this thread is several years old now... so would be good get feedback from folks who have used water proof grease and Teflon washers over the past few years, as to how effective they are and how often re greasing is actually necessary??
 
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Hi Paul D,I also bought some plates and washers from spooky, top quality parts and top man.
I only fitted them and bearings a few months back so can't say much about wear. I used a Lucas waterproof grease which had a high melting point on because the linkage is close to the exausts
 
I used a Lucas waterproof grease which had a high melting point on because the linkage is close to the exhausts

Fair consideration and worth the caution. The consensus is it's the rear-most dog-bone bearing that deteriorates fastest... cause being all the spray from rear tyre. Hence not exhaust heat, which would affect the front dog-bone bearing worst. May be a different story for riders frequently stuck I traffic, rather than riding in the wet. :)
 
I just bought a second hand dog bone off ebay. Its like new. I will strip the grease out of it and I am going to pack it with Lithium bearing grease as Lithium grease does not wash out or mix with water. I'm going to swap the dog bones out every now and then now and then and just service them when they are off the bike ready to fit the following year or year after depending on how the bike gets used.

Incidentally on the Soupy's links I got compensation from him for my rear link failing on me, which covered all the damages caused to the bike. I also stopped all the links of the same design that he had manufactured to be withdrawn and the are no longer made, not just Aprilia links but also the others he had also made for other bikes of the same design. I think he got off likely to be fair. Mine failed on at 80mph. I was just backing off from about 130mph and I was approaching a corner so I was going in a straight line. But still, knackered the carbon hugger, melted the tire, bent the shock absorber and if it had broke on the corner I would probably have been dead.

After it broke when I looked at it I could understand why straight away. I just assumed by his advertising that it had been properly tested. That bloke is a ****. If I'd been in America I would have driven to his state and punched his lights out and then sued the arse of him. Whats annoying is that people on the AF1 Forum had known about it for a number of years and no one in the states had done anything about it. It took me nearly 18 months to get them banned and to stop him producing them and get compensation. Took a lot of stick from a few people on the AF1 Forum too. But that only came from people that couldn't understand the importance of what Soupy had done. They saw it kind of like this UK guy causing problems for a US manufacturer, which wasn't the done thing. But who cares, people are safe now and they are not been made anymore
 
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