Clutch Problems - Help? pls

What oil r u using?

Having just had lots of clutch problems what year is your rsv? Got my info off here with lots of help from everyone.

If you had a chat with Bowen Moto Im sure they might suggest something..seems strange u r getting slip and drag though...head scratcher this one...

If the problem improves when the engine is warm change the clutch oil jet from the .75 that is probably in there to a 0.40.
In fact do it anyway as it's 10 times better

Only cost you a tenner. Just don't wreck the old one getting it out. (It's brass and soft)

Pt no 0268751

Sure you put the plates back in correct order and right way round ?

I have a 2000 mille and had major problems with clutch slipping, have you test riden it, when does the clutch slip? Mine slipped 4th 5th & 6th gear around 6000 rpm when giving it big beans, have ended up swopping all clutch steels and plates and the pressure plate aswell as bleeding system, swopping oil twice. In the end i took my bike to Southern and they had it sorted in 1 1/2 hours by putting new plates in. Money well spent. As your in Kent you are a lot closer than me to them. Would seriously recommend.

RSV Mille's are normally very reliable if maintained correctly. It's when neglect creeps in that problems start.

Did you fit a Barnet Clutch? Barnet revised their clutch plates recently due to the problems you have experienced, i.e excessive drag, caused by the steel plates being manufactured too thick. Contact Barnet direct to check your part numbers. They should send you a revised part if it's incorrect

The earlier vacuum valve for the "slipper clutch" on 2003 and earlier RSV is prone to failure and many owners simply don't realise it's failed. It will cause the rear wheel to lock momentarily on down changes and can be felt as a slight hop. They are very easy to replace and are about £10 from Aprilia. Just note the correct way the arrow is pointing. It should not however cause the clutch to drag but is worth checking anyway. If you can blow through the valve both ways then it has failed and needs replacing.

You've fitted an MPL clutch slave which will reduce the pressure needed on the clutch lever to disengage the clutch but should not have any effect on clutch drag. There is a very small screw on the clutch lever to take up free play that has been known to cause clutch drag if incorrectly adjusted. Might be worth checking also.

Other than that there is not much else to that can go wrong. Earlier model pre 2001 clutch baskets where poorly machined and could cause the clutch plates to stick so may be worth checking.

You are based in Kent. As supertedlover can vouch for, if you have the time it may be worth a visit to these people. They have a reputation second to none. A phone call for some advise may also be very usefull.

http://www.southerncrossmotorcycles.co.uk/

wot he said! lol
so many excellent reports on southern cross,their work,knowledge and customer service seem absolutely fantastic.may as well let an expert go straight to the problem and fix it than keep guessing/buying/trying new un needed parts trial and error style mate.
you lot are very lucky to have those guys down your neck of the woods.
its pants round here.

There is a very small screw on the clutch lever to take up free play that has been known to cause clutch drag if incorrectly adjusted. Might be worth checking also.

It is proper tiny and you need about a 2mm allen key to loosen the screw, does make a difference, only small, but does.

Bushi

Your plates are in as they should be from what you have said. I'm guessing you had slip/drag pre plate change and now you have just drag right ?

Rsv clutches are inherently draggy pre 06 especially when cold some more than others.
The main reason is too much oil injected into the clutch basket hence why Aprilia have gradually reduced the clutch oil jet size to where it is now at 0.40
Liken it to waving your arms in the air and then in the water. Fluid drags.

Post 06 all rsv/Tuono's are fitted with .40 jets and it's retrospective.

The other problem is air in the clurch hydraulics. Are you 100 % sure you have no air in the clutch M/C. Often you have to turn the M/C so the bleed nipple is vertical to get the last drop of air out. You should have max 15mm of lever tip free play on the clutch from resting point to when you feel pressure. Any more then you either have air or as Super ted said the clutch pushrod is incorrectly adjusted.
Be careful with the pushrod though. It possible to adjust it to the point that it will partially block a fluid passageway. End result can sometimes be clutch only partially works when hot as your not passing enough fluid.

Regards the jet it makes a significant difference to finding neutral especially when cold and stops that clunk and lurch when engaging first when cold.
Worth doing for the cost regardless of whether that is you main issue or not.

The one way valve on the slipper vacuum pipe cannot cause drag. All it does is allow the vacuum from the T/B's to enter the clutch diaphram and expand it to slip the clutch on a closed throttle (high vacuum). If it sticks closed you get no inflation so no slipper and if it sticks open the gasses will escape back the way they came and still no slipper.
The only ppc replated issue that can occur is if the engine breather gets blocked or incorrectly vented (usually poor aftermarket airbox fitment) then the crankcase gasses will be trapped and can inflate the clutch diaphram and cause slip. Normally they are vented to atmosphere via your airbox.

Sp model uses same friction plates as yours. Only the steels differ.

46.6 sounds about right for a new set of plates. Don't forget Aprilia updated the clutch pack in 2001 so you won't be able to buy the originals anymore.
The wear limit for the new style plates is 46.3mm so that would make your figure stand up.

Do you have the part numbers of the plates they sent you.

You wont regret it, they will sort it guaranteed.

yes you retain the spacer