clunkety clunk pt 2

Hello,can any of the clever buggers on here help me please..? on the old forum i posted the pt 1 to this.. i had a massive clunk when i changed gear, chain tension/ cush drive rubbers ok, i bled the clutch,still not right, so i reverse bled it and it felt great. now a couple of months later its clunking again, does anyone know if air can get in through the seals without showing any leaks? its not as bad as before but enough to let me know it aint right... cheers in advance windy..

I thought you were going to start a thread about Harleys .

Technickaly thinking.......................Clutch in ,gear box seperates from engine and gears are changed nice and quiet like.
Selecter forks worn ?
quadrant worn ?
enough oil in the box (enough oil being dispersed though the motor , no blocked oilways) ?
Clutch fluid ,right spec and clean ?
Slave , free enough ?

cheers for your reply Hector, il check what i can from your list, bit of a div when it comes to mechanical things, some changes are snickity smooth then i get the buell/ harley thing, i hope its not selectors, i was a bit pissed off with a mate of mine who rode it and said he did clutchless changes hope that didnt f it,im old school and always use the clutch.. anyone here do clutchless? if so i can rule that out if it dosnt cause problems... cheers windy p.s oil level ok, new dot 4 fluid in the clutch.

Clutchless changes are fine for going up the 'box.(ooer madam!)You get very few,if any missed gears that way.I do it all the time,exept in town where you need to be a little bit smoother.Going down the 'box,use the clutch and blip the throttle at the same time to match the engine speed to the gearbox speed.
My T gearbox is a bit notchy and sometimes clunks a bit when I select first from cold.You say you have checked the chain,....I would double check it and make sure there is no tight/slack spots.Also check rear wheel alighnment,.....those marks on the swingarm are notorious for being wrong.

Windy have you chainged your boots ,I no it sownds mad but I wear to difrent pairs of boots My cam on my T gear shift is set up for my Alpinestars SMX boots ,Snicky snick smooth gear chainges , but wen I wear my Sidi vartabrays , I clunk gear gear chainges and get a fols newtral evry now and then inbetween 5th and 6th gear , ( its carnidge ) makes my guts tern over wen it happens , and gen ones gear boxes are a bit moor nochy than the gen two I have fownd ,

The diffrence allso mite be you not bike related iff you have got the gear leaver cam set at a diffrent place to the one on the Gen tow , you mite be preloading the gear leaver slightley ,so the gear leaver hasent had time to setall back to a nutrale posishon wen short shiffting up the box , this will make for clunkey gear chainges as well , theys geer boxs are bilt for abuse but they do have quite whide gats on them ,I cluchles gear chaing up the box all the time they were made for it , but they dont like being preloaded on the leaver betwean gear chainges , you will get a clunk , they clunk between 1st and 2nd wen cold .

best thing to do is put the bike on a padock stand lousen off the the gear leaver cam not to lous just so it bites on the cam lobe ,sit on the bike , get into you comfy rideing posicion put your boot under the leaver and just gentley lift the gear leaver so it is 2mm away from your boot wen you relax your foot back to rideing posicion ,that will stop you preloading your gear leaver , befor doing this make to dots witha felt tip pen were the lobe,and the peg is in the leaver befor undoing it so you can retern it back to were it was iff you dont like it , give it a go it werks for me ,this is one thing to try .

but it allso coud be down to week cluch springs as well iff the bike has done a lot of hard miles as well iff you yous your cluch all the time .

Allso PTFE Plumbers tape the thred on the bleed nipple on the master silinder and the slave to cluch as well , a few years ago out in the alps we fownd that bikes that had PTFE tape on dident lous the cluch or brakes at cold temps and altitude , through the to metals of the master silinder and the bleed nipple expandeing and contrackting at diffrent rates so not sealing and letting air in ,PTFE tape curs this it still happens on hot and cold days at sea leval , and on track days iff its wet in the morning and hot and suny in the afternoon , I whont bore eney moor
Sorry abowt the spelling we carnt all be perfickt .

Try all of Freestylers stuff first, they are all top tips, and won't cost a fortune.

If it STILL is an arse then the gearchange detent spring is next thing to try, but involves a proper dismantle job on the gearbox side.

There is an American product that totally solves this issue, about $100 plus shipping and import duty, but will need pukka skills to install.
the American Troy had one fitted, I can find the website for you if it gets that bad.

FWIW Liz's 07 can be a **** for neutral's and sticking in gear when cold, but since I fitted a set of the Aprilia Performance Reasets to mine it's as sweet as a nut, so there is a lot to be said for Freestylers comments on the gear lever pressure effects.

I agree with the boots bit. They deffinately change gear different with different footwear. If you have proper boots on with thick tops or a proper toe/lever pad you can hardly feel the lever. But if you have a summer/lightweight boot/trainer type you can sometimes feel the lever on your toes before it moves up. This must give a little pressure before the actual movement, hence what Freestylers going on about. I've noticed it with different boots. Its easy to think something sinnister is going on when more often that not its something simple. Remember when I was looking for footpegs cause me boots kept slipping off ? I just roughed the bottoms up with emery cloth. Sorted Anyhoo it no good ***** footing about with a T, you gotta be a bit forcefull with em, mek em av it.

cheers for your help lads, there's a few things for me to check, fwiw i havnt changed my boots same old smx-r's. im just hoping its nothing that needs major work/expense. Freestyler dont worry about ur spelling,i can make more sense of your posts then some of the ones that come from north of the border..

Did tifa not fit some sort of star spring arrengement to his gearbox that sorted the whole thing. I remember seeing a how to on the af1 site.

Was it Tifa?

I know Troyboy30 had one fitted, they are the Evo shift Star kits made by FactoryPro.com - wouldn't go down this route until you had done everything else.

I'm not sure who it was bats, but it seemed to do the job. Your right about exhausting all other means first as the star thingy was a bit of a job. And it wasn't cheap.

Thanks again lads, i think il try the easier checks 1st and see how i get on, in my mind i was thinking air had got into the system as after i reversed bled it as per dr heckle it was fine, i might try the ptfe tape on the bleed nipples and work through it, as keith said it might be wheel alignment,i find those marks a right balls ache when the bikes on the paddock stand [micron] as the stand obscures them.. well ive got winter to sort it...

Windy get yer self a piece of 16mm dia and 13mm dia rod (5/8" and 1/2") long enough to pass through the swing arm plus a bit extra. Put the 1/2" through the swing arm bolt and the other through the axle bolt now measure the distance between them, make them parallel and note the diff between the marks. Job done forever as long as you can remember the difference.

hey Aldo cheers for that tip, i can remember something about lying a piece of wood parallel to the bike and measuring from that, never done it though.

I use that method on my Brit bikes.They have no swingarm marks at at.Wood is ok as long as you are absolutely sure its straight.I use a couple of 'H' section lengths of aluminiium that were spare from a dry wall job.

I think I posted a "dummies guide" to wheel alignment on the old forum.

You can use wood/metal - just squint along the edge to make sure its straight first. Easiest is probably string.

Get about 10-12 feet of cord and loop it around the back of the tyre at the lines mid point. Pull both ends tight down either side of the bike past the front wheel. Ensure that the string is touching the rear tyre on front and rear edges, and measure to the edges of the front tyre. It will take a few goes to get the handlebars centred and the rear wheel adjusted until both sides match. Once this is done, simply count the number of turns you make on the chain adjusters and you will stay in line.

I have also used a laser level - (spirit level) and clamped it to the rear tyre measured to the front from the little red dot etc.

This is a once a year spring check, after that as I said count turns on the adjusters.

this bike is the straitest I have ever had . Had it Lazer alinde a while ago ,with a proper bike lazer wheel aliner ,at Maxmoto , Saurnders of Knebwerth have got one to . what I do is go and get them alinde wen I buy a new bike ,

then yous a verniar depth gage from the back of the swinging arm to the ajuster blocks , make a note of it ,so perfickt aline ment evry time I have to put the back wheel in and out .Some bikes I have had , like my old 03'T was out by two swing arm marks ,thats heeps iff both sides were set up the same that coud meen upto 10'mm diffrence from the rear wheel spindel to the outer edge of the tier , it crabbed like hell ,till I got Lazer alind my Super duke KTM wasent much beter eather ,

Hondas Ducati yamaha's KTM ADV, Have all been all out as well . But this Tuono'R that I have got , is bang on 50-50. On the marks on the lazer aliner never had such a strait bike , frame to forks as well bang on , this is why its a keeper . I must have had the same mario weld my swing arm as my frame as well so they jigged properley sweet! I am very happy abowt this .

Did you knoe that most Jap bikes out the factry are out in the frames buy abowt 5to 15'mm this inclouds hondas , iff you whont to yous a blade out the factry for raceing you have to strip it fully and get the frame jigged to get it straitend from the start . supearier bild qulity my A'hole .

But wid any o us ordinary folk notice...ah doot it!.

I don't know what they did with mine whilst it was away but the gearchange is very easy now.

I only have to touch the lever sometimes and it snicks into gear.

duke63 said:

I don't know what they did with mine whilst it was away but the gearchange is very easy now.

I only have to touch the lever sometimes and it snicks into gear.

Click to expand...

Same here since Charleytuono dialled the ASV's in for me.