Changing fork oil

Hey all,

Anyone changed the fork oil recently? Wondering how easy it is do you need any special tools?
I already have the forks off the bike.

Been busy recently in the garage, built myself some stands instead of paying out for an abba stand




Things I've done on the bike so far
full service
Steering head bearings
brake fluid
clutch fluid
brake pads
15T front sprocket

Cant wait to have the bike back together and see the difference hoping that changing the steering bearings has sorted the front end.
It makes sense to service the forks while their off what do you think?

Pretty sure a thread exists on the forum regards fork oil changes, it's a very easy task to complete and if I remember rightly no special tools are required.

However, you will need some way of ensuring the oil level is correct once changed and I always use one of those levellers with a syringe. Like this Click Me

Home made stands look good, you must be a chippie, cause I can't make wood look like that. LOL

lol definatly no chippy. Took me about 3 hours to make the stands. I'm an aircraft engineer by trade so I know my way round a tool box!
Think I'l give the forks a go looked in the service manual and it says to replace every 7500miles or so, dont think its been done yet.
Gonna go with 20w oil, cant you just get a rule down the fork to measure the level?
How do you stop the fork springing apart when disassembling? 2 man job?

Just get a big syringe and add a bit of clear pipe, mark your air gap height on it and it is as simple as that, the spring is not under that much tension and make sure you use an air gap measurement instead of oil measurement, only done ohlins myself but just be methodical and most importantly be very clean whilst doing the job.

quick update I've been told that 20w oil will be too hard gone with 10w in the end gonna have the forks apart tomoorow hopefully if im not 2 hungover

I did a fork oil change about a month ago.
Remove the forks (obviously), remove the caps and let them stand upside down for about 10 mins each.
I went with 10wt oil as I'm a FB (17st!).
Ignore the recommended quantity as there will always be some oil left in the forks.
I went for a 115mm gap at the top of the forks after working the springs in and out a couple of times, measured with a bent welding rod dipped into the fork.
Worked 100%, forks feel so much better than before.
Good luck.

This is on my to do list during the winter. What oil viscosity would you recommend for Öhlins and rider on 90kg (yes i am a little fat)

Cheers

Running 5W oil in my Showas..is spot on for me (85Kgs).
Too pull the Showa forks apart so as to get all the old oil out, and a precise new lvl, then there is two special tools to make..none of em hard. One is a flat metal disc with a 10mm slot in it and the other a U shaped bracket with two adjustable bolts. If you have a copy of the workshop manual..it gives a good description on how to use these.

I tried a few weights in mine and found 5w to work best in ohlins forks with a 100mm air gap for me at 80kg on my road bike, track bike needs 95mm air gap, standard fork springs are fine for my weight

I'm 78 Kilos and have always used 5w oil in my forks, my Showas are due for an oil change soon and they'll be getting 5w.

I use this oil for my forks and have never had any issues whatsoever. Click Me

(Fast delivery too if your in the UK)

PS. I've never needed any special tools for doing my forks, all you need to do is take your time and be careful. Speed and negligence cause damage and more work.

heres a thread on redoing a set of R1 forks - principle should be the same:

http://www.rzrd500.com/500phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=7770

Well
The bike is on stand.

Öhlins top nut assy (FG8861) is screwed in the "rod" going trough the fork.
So I can not remove the top nut without having the whole system on floor?

What about the oil level the Öhlins manual I have says "adjust the oil level with fork fully compressed and with the spring mounted"

Is that right?
Just the spring what about the preload tube??

Sorry lads stupid questions, but newer done this to Öhlins before...

Cheers

Take the forks off the bike and stand upright on the floor.
Back off all the damping to min and the preload right out. This is because an open valve drains better than a semi closed one and removing the preload makes the cap easier to remove.

Remove top cap ideally will a Ohlins tool but you can grip the preload adjuster and do it if your very carful not to mark the anodising. grips with rubber in the jaws etc.

Once you seperated the top from the fork body let it drop right down which will reveal the top cap and damper rod. There is a steel tube you need to pull down which you can do by hand and that will reveal the locknut holding the pushrod to the top cap.(15mm from memory)

Once the top cap is free hold the push rod with a finger and then you can invert the fork to drain the oil. If you don't hold the pushrod it will fall out along with a spring and rebound valve pin. Pump the fork to expell as much oil as poss.

When refilling it's certainly easier with the spring out. You want 100mm air gap spring out damper rod raised up. for oem setting and 85mm spring in. If your a lightweight and not using much travel you may want to have a bigger air gap. I'm 15 stone in gear and run 105mm Spring out. Measure the air gap with something straight you can run down the side till it touches the oil. I use a plastic welding rod with 5mm increments marked on it.

When you refit the top cap make sure the locknut on the pushrod is good and tight. If it's not when toy adjust the preload it will come loose.

Spoonz
Thanks for help. It is done- I left 85mm air. That is how much there also were. The old "oil" was black / grey something...
Couple of pics.


And after