What was the yellow flicking light? The TC cutting in?
Well it was my first time using the aPRC after retro fitting it, pretty sure it was AWC kept turning it down but it kept flickering, ended up switching it off in race 3 (not recorded) not sure f I calibrated it on a hill as had to go out on the road outside Cadwell to Calibrate it as no where long enough on the grounds, need some more practice with it really as the front was not lifting much but kept flickering and retarding power.
I also see that you use the Launch Control - i get conflicting opinion, when you use the LC do the AWC and the TC still work, in that it will keep the front end from looping, or, as I have also heard, does it turn all that off?
In my mind using the LC, you should be able to just pin it, and the electronics sort the bike for you?
Gavin.
Having read the manual prior to use and the youtube vid, you pretty much hold the throttle to the stop and it holds the revs, you release the clutch and the AWC, TC all do their stuff while you keep it pinned through the gears and as discussed it switches off at 90mph or you enter 3rd gear. However tried on the 2 setting and pulled a monster wheelie on the practice lap so I still need to practice that and have a play. Better than my last starting efforts pre aPRC mind.
ALC launch control is a specific functioning
scenario for the traction control system
which takes into consideration the
fact that initial speed is zero. Once the
LAUNCH control function is activated
and the throttle is opened completely, the
engine speed increases to and is maintained
at approximately 9,500 rpm, irrespective
of the level set. The LAUNCH
function is automatically deactivated in
the event of any of the three following situations:
· A gear higher than second is selected;
· Vehicle speed exceeds 145 Km/
h (90.10 mph).
To activate ALC in the level selected previously
from the menu, with the vehicle
stationary, simultaneously press and
hold "+" and "-" for at least 3 seconds,
until the message "LAUNCH" (in ROAD
display mode) or "L" (in RACE display
mode) is shown on the digital display.
When ALC is activated, the ATC and
AWC systems are automatically deactivated
and remain so until the ALC function
is exited ALC (message cleared from
digital display). Once the ALC function is
exited, the ATC and AWC systems resume
operation with the settings selected
previously.
CAUTION
DURING THE INITIAL STAGE OF ALC
FUNCTION (DURING CLUTCH RELEASE),
THE SYSTEM HELPS THE
RIDER KEEP THE FRONT WHEEL AS
CLOSE TO THE GROUND AS POSSIBLE.
DURING THE SECOND STAGE OF
ALC FUNCTION (WITH THE CLUTCH
LEVER COMPLETELY RELEASED),
THE OBJECTIVE OF THE SYSTEM IS
TO HELP THE RIDER MAXIMISE VEHICLE
ACCELERATION IN RELATION
TO THE ALC LEVEL SELECTED. DURING
THE SECOND STAGE OF OPERATION,
THE SYSTEM ALLOWS THE
FRONT WHEEL TO LIFT FROM THE
GROUND TO MAXIMISE ACCELERATION
To activate ALC in the level selected previously
from the menu, with the vehicle
stationary, simultaneously press and
hold "+" and "-" for at least 3 seconds,
until the message "LAUNCH" (in ROAD
display mode) or "L" (in RACE display
mode) is shown on the digital display.
When ALC is activated, the ATC and
AWC systems are automatically deactivated
and remain so until the ALC function
is exited ALC (message cleared from
digital display). Once the ALC function is
exited, the ATC and AWC systems resume
operation with the settings selected
previously.
Odd that it does it at a standstill though.
The TC/WC light flashes when Launch engaged to show its working, as soon as I hit 3rd it switched off.
Awesome video and riding. I wish I could corner half as well as that.
Agreed your corner speed was keeping you in touch and at times you seemed held up mid corner, but then they were leaving you on the straights. Can that be remedied without losing the corner speed/torque on the Tuono then?
Handling wise only have the adrianni fork internals and Nitron rear race shock, Rizoma MA010 bars help too, but years of riding naked bikes helps :thumbup
Yeah I was often held up in the races, you can see me almost re ending the ZX10 during the last laps out of barn , generally into the gooseneck and out of barn to the start finish straight but even when I get good drive they do me on the straights I am going as fast it goes, throttle to the stop going up the box. In race 2 I was shafted by the gixxer on the first lap and then was stuck behind the fireblade all race, struggled to get close enough to get a safe pass in as the gap was too large after the straight. From doing constand 1:40's in race 1 where I came 6th in race 2 being stuck behind the blade I was doing 1:42's :thumbdown
Ideally all the mods that Robbie is doing would help power through the gears (RSV4 parts like throttle bodies etc) probably lost 1-2 seconds a lap on the straights but doubtful I will do those mods over winter due to funds, racing is super expensive and need to pay off my crash repair damage this year.
I did race the Sunday too but retired as my ribs and shoulder were killing me by day two after recovering from the last crash where I broke them last month :no so was never racing at 100% fitness and struggling to brake as well as usual, given my luck this year really did not want to bin it, but was really happy with my 6th place :thumbup
Glad you like the vid guys, something different, hope you dont mind me posting this up its not all about the "look at me" aspect, mainly its about getting views on youtube, likes on facebook etc, I really want a proper crack at this next year and do a full season rather than 2 races and need sponsors to fund this, hence the FB page and vids posted so I can show them the audience this underdog bike has, this bike really is awesome on track, can be frustrating getting stuck behind people and losing out the straights but I enjoy it when I get it all right and having the only bike with mandlebars in the paddock is my sponsorship selling point :thumbup
