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bloody mille..its a love hate thing.

Joined Jan 2012
145 Posts | 0+
Cornwall
bike wont start, prob flooded it as i know its easy to do, and the weathers hardly been what a italian is used to :p but the batterys starting to run out to, okay to jump from my car? thought id ask before i blow everything on my bike...
 
yip,just let the battery equalise for a few mins first though.
 
Just done the mods too both my Mille's , 1999 rsv and a 2003 rsv I use on the road and track ( full carbon bodywork ).
Highly recomended , now have 14.2 volts charging even when the lights are on !! before that it would drop down too 12 volts well worth it

Eddie
 
bike wont start, prob flooded it as i know its easy to do, and the weathers hardly been what a italian is used to :p but the batterys starting to run out to, okay to jump from my car? thought id ask before i blow everything on my bike...

You will get used to it ( after a while lol ) . Mine would not start yesterday mainly down to the battery and yes I have uprated battery and solenoid but after a night on the optimate all was well , I think what I'm saying its not a complete guarantee these upgrades work all the time . The bike is reading 13.6 v at the mo but I'll try a meter on to see any difference .
 
You will get used to it ( after a while lol ) . Mine would not start yesterday mainly down to the battery and yes I have uprated battery and solenoid but after a night on the optimate all was well , I think what I'm saying its not a complete guarantee these upgrades work all the time . The bike is reading 13.6 v at the mo but I'll try a meter on to see any difference .

But have you done the wiring mods floaky?
 
No mate , the starting issue only starts when the cold weather starts but to be fair i've not run .the bike properly for a couple of weeks

Do it mate. I find starting is touch and go at 12-12.5v. anything less with a cold engine you can forget it. Thing is without the mod, even if you turn the lights off you will struggle to get a charge of more 12.9. And as without the mod the charge actually drops as you rev. So unless your turning off the lights and letting it tick over for 20secs or so to make max charge before you turn it off, your never going to have much more the 12.9 (ish using mine as example). Thats not alot of buffer for natural discharge esply in the cold.
Do the mod and charge doesnt drop when you rev and is over 13 volts even with the lights on. So when ever you park up your battery is backing 13v`s minimum.
I havent even done the batt and solenoid, and my RSV started yesterday at -7 after standing outside for two days with no cover. Before, no chance :thumbup
 
Do it mate. I find starting is touch and go at 12-12.5v. anything less with a cold engine you can forget it. Thing is without the mod, even if you turn the lights off you will struggle to get a charge of more 12.9. And as without the mod the charge actually drops as you rev. So unless your turning off the lights and letting it tick over for 20secs or so to make max charge before you turn it off, your never going to have much more the 12.9 (ish using mine as example). Thats not alot of buffer for natural discharge esply in the cold.
Do the mod and charge doesnt drop when you rev and is over 13 volts even with the lights on. So when ever you park up your battery is backing 13v`s minimum.
I havent even done the batt and solenoid, and my RSV started yesterday at -7 after standing outside for two days with no cover. Before, no chance :thumbup

Are you on about the extra earth wire ? I know theres another one but I've forgot , theres that much info out there . Forgot to mention the alarm being on it as well . Out of curiousity I'm going to check volts across the terminals with lights on /off etc but I'll give the mod a go if things start to get annoying again , although the 13.6 I got earlier is a good reading but as I said the bike was on the charger all night .
 
Exactly, that good readin just tells you that your battery is good, not your charging system. Your bike didnt put those volts there, your optimate did ;)

Basically you add two wires to the charging system and deal with a resistance issue from the stator. Its takes about 1hour (with a good soldering iron) and costs you about 12quid in bits.

I know there are lots of mods out there and it gets confusing, which is why I did this...
http://rsvzone.com/forums/showthread.php?17669-Winter-mods-check-list-please/page14

Thats the page where I`v arranged the mods I`v collected, but go to page 1 onwards for details and discussion on the wiring mod :thumbup
 
Exactly, that good readin just tells you that your battery is good, not your charging system. Your bike didnt put those volts there, your optimate did ;)

Basically you add two wires to the charging system and deal with a resistance issue from the stator. Its takes about 1hour (with a good soldering iron) and costs you about 12quid in bits.

I know there are lots of mods out there and it gets confusing, which is why I did this...
http://rsvzone.com/forums/showthread.php?17669-Winter-mods-check-list-please/page14

Thats the page where I`v arranged the mods I`v collected, but go to page 1 onwards for details and discussion on the wiring mod :thumbup

Just had a butchers at the links to do with the wiring mod(s) but theres a few variations and the only one thats easy to do is the reg , joining of 3 yellow wires . Is it the brown connector itself causing the problem ? Bit unsure about leckies so I need to do more research although I did do my alfa 's when needed .
 
Just had a butchers at the links to do with the wiring mod(s) but theres a few variations and the only one thats easy to do is the reg , joining of 3 yellow wires . Is it the brown connector itself causing the problem ? Bit unsure about leckies so I need to do more research although I did do my alfa 's when needed .

Its overwhelming at first mate. But thats because its not tangible on paper. Once you get the fairing off and look at what your dealing with its clear. You dont have to do it exactly as its says. In the end I just cut out both the brown and the white connector as couldnt be arsed dicking about soldering extra wires to spades! and the only time would need a connector is if you were to replace the reg/rec, in which case you could just snip the wires again and resolder. Some tips as I did mine recently..
Get hold of a good soldering iron and make sure you have plenty of solder before you start!! you always need more than you think you will.
Make sure the wire your adding the solder to is hot enough to fully liquefy the solder completely. This is where a good iron comes in! Melting it on to the wire with the iron is no good. If your going to use shrink wrap, make sure you put it on before you join the wires!
Any questions just as on that mod thread, so others can refer to it later if you would ;)
 
oooo....need to use the search tool and find out exactly wft ur all going on about :) is it expensive to do?
 
so looking like a uprated batt (ytx14bs) and a Wemoto Starter Solenoid? the batts fair enough but is there a part no to the solenoid so i buy the right one?
 
Got the meter on the battery terminals this morning to compare with the reading on the bike . At first from cold and side lights on I got 11.7v on the bike but 12.9 on the meter , it cracked up no problem. So started her up and 14.1., no lights then 13.6 with lights . The meter was reading 14.3 on both occasions . The real test I suppose is when you rev the bike and it did drop but not a big one , 13.9 from the meter. I checked the brown plug which after 10 mins it was a bit warm only so as it is I'm going to leave the wiring for now , sounds like my bike is not as bad as others . Thanks to SteveR for his input .
 
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Your welcome mate. No it doesnt sound as bad as some. They vary alot. But its not optimal, for how easy the mod is I really recommend it.
The dashes always seem to read about a volt more than a metre across the terminals. Perhaps this is because its taken from a different part of the circuit :dunno The figures I gave you were from my dash, but the voltage increase is still relevant in relation to the metre used.
All the best either way :thumbup
 
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good soldering iron
lots of solder
waterproof 30amp inline fuseholder with fuse
3ft red wire 12/14 gauge
3ft black wire 12/14 gauge
shrink wrap
insulation tape
x2 ring connectors
crimping pliers
wire cutters/strippers

Off the top of my head :thumbup
 
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