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Bleeding the Rear Brake

I~ use one of those one way bleeders. Basicaly a tube with a one way valve on one end. Attach to bleed nipple, crack it open 1/4 turn and bleed away using the prescribed method of the two positions of the caliper. Alternatively you could try reverse bleeding. This is where you pump fluid in through the bleed nipple with a syringe. Use a smaller syringe to suck the fluid out of the slave. Quick,easy and clean. Works for me.. Dont forget a water spray to save your paint work if you spill fluid!
 
scott2ride from af1 did a good write up on the rear brake (can i say that here??), drilling out the plastic elbow that connects the reservoir and the master cylinder, ive done the same and it really helps, i can lock the rear brake no problem, i have also moved the m/c up onto the rearsets. definately use my rear brake, would much rather tip into a corner with a bit of rear scrubbing off any excess speed.
 
scott2ride from af1 did a good write up on the rear brake (can i say that here??), drilling out the plastic elbow that connects the reservoir and the master cylinder, ive done the same and it really helps, i can lock the rear brake no problem, i have also moved the m/c up onto the rearsets. definately use my rear brake, would much rather tip into a corner with a bit of rear scrubbing off any excess speed.

Is it a straightforward job, drilling the bore out, what dia do you open it out to :O
 
I have removed the master cylinder for the rear brake, the elbow that I want to open out does not want to come out, does it pop out or is it on a thread :O
 
I was going to try it tonight, but one more question before I attempt it, can I drill it in situ, or will the swarf cause problems, as much as I have tried I can't get the elbow out with brute force,I am worried about snapping it off
 
Dont understand the drill the bore bigger bit, i had no back brake at all until i did this with mine, on the brake cylinder bolted underneath the engine i drilled both mounting holes 1mm bigger, when bolting back on push the front of the cylinder upwards and the rear downwards then tighten, theory of this is it stops air going back in, then took rear caliper off and hung it off my can, put a screw driver betwwen the pads to stop them closing pumped brake lever 3 times and on the forth depression open bleed nipple, close when pedal hits the bottom then let it raise up, did this about 15 times on mine and the back brake is now awesome and hasnt faded a bit, obviously dont let the resovoir get empty when bleeding :thumbup:thumbup:thumbup

RS3mille taught me this method and it hasnt failed yet, cheers Spanwah and hope you dont mind me tellin everyone ya brake mod :thumbup
 
The drilling bit is opening up the elbow where the fluid goes into the master cylinder, the bore size is 3mm and the mod is to open it up to 4.5mm, there is a write up on it on Aprilliaforums (follow link above) but it does not explain how to remove the elbow for drilling, I will try to post a how to of our own, once I learn how to remove the elbow from the master cylinder.
 
PJ, it does come out, takes a bit of pulling though, you could not drill it in situ as the 4.5mm bit needs to drill out both ends, just use the drill on a very slow speed and be careful not to be to hasty and drill right through the thing:thumbup
 
Thanks Badger
The hole where the Banjo attaches is it wotrh drilling that baby out too :O
 

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