Poor battery is causing the starter solenoid to click, if you keep doing this it will knacker the solenoid.
What you want is a YTZ14BS with more cold cranking power plus this yamaha solenoid
http://shop.wemoto.com/pictures.dyn?u=5834046qqq3532154
This will more than likely solve your problem:thumbup
Have a read at this mate
disarm your alarm, confirm that your LED stops flashing, (if your bike has not been used for over two weeks, switch your ignition on first to wake the alarm up, then off then arm and disarm).
Switch your ignition on, do you hear your fuel pump prime for about 5 seconds, if no your fault is either kill switch in wrong position/ faulty,alarm, tip over sensor, fuel pump, fuel pump relay or ecu. Further assistance will be given on this when required.
Press your starter button,do you get multiple clicks, if you do its your battery thats flat or a loose connection, a weak battery does not have the power to make the solenoid work it tries but fails often this is the clicking sound you hear, dont give me yer pish about it being a new battery or just off charge, you are doing it wrong, multiple clicks are a sign of a duff battery an nothing else, if you are a poor wee misguided arse wipe that thinks you have just taken the bike off your optimate then read the feckin instructions for your optimate (highlights below). A green light on an optimate doesn't mean the battery is OK.
If its a new battery then did the shop charge it for eight hours on a trickle charger or did you walk in say "i want a new battery" they filled it with acid and gave it to you, no 8 hour charge means your battery will not last as long as it could.
Optimate, great wee ****** but you need to read the instructions, if you dont power on and off it does not condition yer battery, you have wasted your money for a wee plastic ornament, every time you connect to an optimate you must switch it off and on again to reset the conditioning cycle.
What fecker was going on about diagnostic plugs, the diagnostics are only concerned with the fuel injection there is no a code for the starter solenoid. There is no fault code 0,1 or -1 this is the setting for yer throttle position sensor it is not a fault code.
Right then where was i, your fuel pump primes, remember that noise, when you press the start button do you hear a single click but the starter motor does not turn, you hear the same whooshing noise that your fuel pump priming makes, that means your solenoid is probably fecked, this can beconfirmed by shorting out the two terminals on the solenoid with your ignition on this will enable you to start the bike,
if you dont hear a single click then it is probably your solenoid control voltage that is ******, test by putting a multimeter or lamp over the little multiplug on the solenoid between the yellow/red and the purple/black you should get 12V only when the start button is pressed if you dont the fault is in your switch, control logic, side stand switch, clutch switch diode block etc, further assistance will be given when ye post saying "I dont get 12V on my multiplug when the button is pressed"
The sprag clutch woes will not prevent the bike from starting, it is a mechanical noise which gets louder as time goes on it also gets more expensive the longer you leave it
as usual the internet is a dangerous place, don't assume because the solenoid is a known fault that that is what is wrong with your bike, do the checks above post yer results an we will get ye sorted.
Dont assume that because someone says their business is motorbikes that they know best for example people who come on and say that an optimate discharges a battery what the **** sort of info is that, a battery charger that discharges a battery , for the record an optimate measures the level and rate of discharge of a battery and sets the charging current appropriately, once the green light is on it reverts to a trickle charge, this is called conditioning.
