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Adjusting Valve Clearance

badgermilk

badgermilk

Joined Oct 2008
220 Posts | 0+
Hampshire UK
Hey folks I just checked the valve clearances on my recently purchaced track bike. A few of them are a bit tight and require adjusting. :angry

Question is- is it easy enough to do with the engine in or is it an engine out job?

It looks just about doable to me with the engine in, but has anyone got any first hand experience?
 
100% engine in.

Cams have to come out so make sure timing marks are right when it goes back together otherwise it will get ugly quickly.
 
Spoonz said:
100% engine in.

Cams have to come out so make sure timing marks are right when it goes back together otherwise it will get ugly quickly.
Click to expand...

Is there a thread on this explaining how to do the job. Are the adjustments done via shims. I'm sure I've seen this somewhere but can't find it on the search.
 
Cheers spoonz keeping the engine in will save me some time.

Is there a hole through the timing gears to put a pin through to keep the engine at TDC?
I've changed cam belts etc. on cars and just put a drill bit through the alignment hole.

I'll take some pics as I go along and post them on the forum as a bit of a how 2.
The bikes in bits at the moment. Just an engine and frame, theres not much to these bikes when you get under the skin. This track bike is turning into a bit of work lol.
Also found a crack in my rear shock bottom eye end.
 
Yep it's bucket and shim hence why they go tight as they wear.

Process is a bit long winded for a post, I would get yourself a manual.
 
:thumbup
Deacs said:
here ya go matey, this is what you're looking for: adjusting falco valves

Deacs :thumbup
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info mate. Looks a bit beyond what I,ve done before so will probably take it to Griff. I think they should have been done at 14K miles but the bikes done 17K now. It runs well but sometimes it's hard to start although I've done the battery and solenoid upgrade. Can only think valves are out of synch.

Thanks again Deacs and Spoonz.:thumbup
 
paultz said:
:thumbup

Thanks for the info mate. Looks a bit beyond what I,ve done before so will probably take it to Griff. I think they should have been done at 14K miles but the bikes done 17K now. It runs well but sometimes it's hard to start although I've done the battery and solenoid upgrade. Can only think valves are out of synch.

Thanks again Deacs and Spoonz.:thumbup
Click to expand...
it wont be valves out of sink, unless its one of the high output griff sells then [even if it seems to turn over quick] its prob the battery , if you have an alarm fitted then try to keep bike on an optimate [or any other trickle charger, thats very pc of me!]
 
they all use the same rotax engine matey (albeit small valve on early engines) :thumbup
 
Get a manual :devious easy enough job but a pain in the arse to get at some of the bolts, I also had to take out the coolant collector can between the heads to get at the cam chain adjusters. Word of warning, don't try & recharge your cam chain adjusters with oil before you refit them, I did & ****** one up, £45.00 each :eek:

Picture001-4.jpg
 
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