04+ RSVR Gearing

Travy14 · Jun 2, 2015

Gray said:
I agree with ride4fun it sounds more like a lack of power. I suspect there is a mismatch between the ecu map/setup and the PCIII. Has the bike been dyno'd after the changes? It doesn't sound like it to me.
Get the PCIII set up by a competent technician at a known quality facility, get a custom map installed on the PCIII and I think all your power issues will disappear.

Gray

She pulls hard. I'm not sure it's a HP issue. The more input I get, the more I'm leaning towards a bad speed sensor. It will cruise at 90 and pull hard through 6 to around 8-9k and speedo reads 131-143 which was top reading. Let me check this sensor and see what happens. The bike is an animal and pulls hard. Knowing these bikes it could be a bad connection on the sensor. How does the sensor read the speed? Is the bolts on the rear disk or the rotor itself the marker?

ride4fun · Jun 2, 2015

Travy14 said:
She pulls hard. I'm not sure it's a HP issue. The more input I get, the more I'm leaning towards a bad speed sensor. It will cruise at 90 and pull hard through 6 to around 8-9k and speedo reads 131-143 which was top reading. Let me check this sensor and see what happens. The bike is an animal and pulls hard. Knowing these bikes it could be a bad connection on the sensor. How does the sensor read the speed? Is the bolts on the rear disk or the rotor itself the marker?

The sensor uses the bolt heads for your rear disc.

Gray · Jun 2, 2015

Travy14 said:
She pulls hard. I'm not sure it's a HP issue. The more input I get, the more I'm leaning towards a bad speed sensor. It will cruise at 90 and pull hard through 6 to around 8-9k and speedo reads 131-143 which was top reading. Let me check this sensor and see what happens. The bike is an animal and pulls hard. Knowing these bikes it could be a bad connection on the sensor. How does the sensor read the speed? Is the bolts on the rear disk or the rotor itself the marker?

If? ? ? its a faulty speed sensor, which I doubt (cost of replacement @ £82) Your revs would continue to rise to over 10k before power drops off.
Cost of a power run on a dyno'd @ £25 and the technician would be able to tell you if the PCIII needs setting up, as an aside you could compare the top speed and work out if your speed sensor is working properly.

Gray

ride4fun · Jun 2, 2015

I agree. Get it onto a rolling road, and I am sure all your problems will be found.

Travy14 · Jun 2, 2015

The rear rotor and gearing were changed by the previous owner through a local shop that is known for it shenanigans. This may be something to look into. As far as a dyno run, try $250 American vs $40 for a new sensor plus $15 for new rotor bolts. In all my years of racing and fixing, which I am a certified motorcycle mechanic working in aviation with an active A&P, I'm sure the gearing is not right and something is iffy with this sensor and rotor setup. The engine and tune is fine. But the offer still stands. Anyone in tampa, call me. You'll see exactly what I'm feeling. Horsepower and gearing is matched for low but mid top end the engine outruns the gearing. I need to go back to stock gearing and investigate the sensor. Thank you for all that replied. I'll repost when I get it figured out. This week it's rainy so bike will be up on stands.

ride4fun · Jun 2, 2015

Will be interesting to hear what the outcom is. Good luck with getting it sorted ASAP.

Gray · Jun 2, 2015

Best of luck, I was really just trying to assist in your ongoing issue.

Hope to read your post identifying what you find.

Gray

Travy14 · Jun 3, 2015

So far I took the speed sensor apart and found it caked with brake dust and it was zip tied to new stainless brake lines that had been previously installed. The plug going to the harness easily pulled apart because it had no locks and the pins are loose. I think we can put this issue to bed. I am still curious if a 17 tooth sprocket will fit a 04+ front. The 16 is really close.

Gray · Jun 3, 2015

Travy14 said:
So far I took the speed sensor apart and found it caked with brake dust and it was zip tied to new stainless brake lines that had been previously installed. The plug going to the harness easily pulled apart because it had no locks and the pins are loose. I think we can put this issue to bed. I am still curious if a 17 tooth sprocket will fit a 04+ front. The 16 is really close.

Nice one, well done

Gray

ride4fun · Jun 4, 2015

As you said the engine pulled strongly, I am not surprised to hear it turned out to be a sensor issue.

With regards to your gearing, are you currently running stock 16/40?

Travy14 · Jun 4, 2015

I'm running 16:42. The sensor will need to be wired with connectors. The plug and inserts are crap. I may be able to get new pins from work and rewire it but would rather fix it permanently with water proof butt connectors. The speedo seems to jump around less and doesn't skip numbers like it used to. It would jump from 1 to 3 to 9 to 15 and so on during takeoff. Now it's consistent. shortened the arrow mufflers as well. Sounds deeper and even less back talk on decel. I'm thrilled. View attachment 6383 View attachment 6382

ride4fun · Jun 4, 2015

The short cans look good.

If you want higher gearing, your best option is probably to fit a 40 toothed rear sprocket, rather than a 17 toothed front. That way, you'll be back to standard.

Travy14 · Jun 4, 2015

ride4fun said:
The short cans look good.

If you want higher gearing, your best option is probably to fit a 40 toothed rear sprocket, rather than a 17 toothed front. That way, you'll be back to standard.

That's what I'm leaning towards. Just go back to stock. I might get a 39 tooth just for *****-n-giggles. I rode to work today and the sensor wires were the problem. I cant justify gearing a bike for 3 miles of city riding when the other 17 miles are highway.

Travy14 · Jun 8, 2015

Here's an update for those following. I hard wired the speed sensor and the oil sensor and all is perfect. I put the stock sprocket on the rear and am dumbfounded that people are gearing these down for street Track or stunt I could understand but 16/40 rips compared to 16/42. The ridiculous engine break is gone too. If your bike is lumpy and slow with stock gearing, your bike is not right or rider error. This bike is actually fun to ride now and feels like a liter bike should. I may get a 38 rear sprocket in the future for testing. I cant wait to put some more miles on it.

Lateshift · Jun 8, 2015

That's the problem for the UK riders though, most of us hardly every use one of these bikes for highway riding, and we have roundabouts on our roads, practically every bike that is made for the European market feels like it is over geared and most would automatically drop a tooth off the front straight away. Particularly when most don't need the top end speed too.

ride4fun · Jun 9, 2015

Lateshift said:
That's the problem for the UK riders though, most of us hardly every use one of these bikes for highway riding, and we have roundabouts on our roads, practically every bike that is made for the European market feels like it is over geared and most would automatically drop a tooth off the front straight away. Particularly when most don't need the top end speed too.

Very true; we need lower gearing for good drive out of bends and for overtaking, keeping the revs in the sweet spot between changes, and the first two gears not too high for towns. We do not buy bikes over here for cruising on the motorways.

Travy14 · Jun 9, 2015

I can understand that fully. The horsepower and torque is on tap now. It just felt neutered with the 42. Next project is to switch the Evo box to a filter pod. Thanks guys.

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