021 tyre pressure???

For what its worth , in my umble opinion 33 f, 36 r is good. For me anyhoo. Used it on Bridgestones and Dunlops on the Falco,Tuoldo and Rsvr with good feel, its not so good with the Pirellis I have at the moment on the T,but I've never really bonded with them on any bike. Was gonna change them straight away but their nearly shagged now and I'll be putting Bridgestone bt010's on.
Set ups everything on a bike though in it. Might be worth taking it somewhere for a bit of profesional advise. Rider weight,style etc all counts.

I agree with Nob on this 1. Thats a good pressure to run. Iused that on the 636 before the T also.
Nob - where you getting 010's from these days?

Bt020's ? Sure they are, same tread pattern. Get them from a place in Lowton.
Think the Dunlops were Sportmax Qualifier 11.
I'm **** with stuff like that. Kind of like I've got 18 albums by me favourite band and can't remember any album names but know the words to all the songs. I'll get me coat.

You're on drugs today Nob, me old fruit.

Get off me and get back on Shvlheed

Can't do that bud, I like you tooo much.:thumbup

I am handsome I know and with whit in abundance, but get to abusing Shivlhead. You gotta see something in that knee cap.:yes

Nobist said:

Get off me and get back on Shvlheed

Click to expand...

get ******.



Was at the track again yesterday and discovered that 29 and 28 front and rear worked a treat. The tire carcass gets to move a little and warms up way better and gave me a decent lean angle in the corners. I am a believer as I was one of those that maxed out the tire pressure cuz I figgered beign a big boy I need the support. Now I am going to try the afore mentioned 30 odd psi.

Nobbi - Knowing you have a factory and have probably babbled with the setup I wanted to recommend dropping the front yoke through the forks as it transformed my handling. Prior to this change it was always slowish to tip into the corners and if I wanted to weave a little to warm the tyres up a damn near had to haul the bike using conter steering and peg pressure.

The stock setting is about 5mm through the yoke....I have dropped (on recommendation fro a guy that knows) mine down to 12mm through. Astonishing!! bike is almost telepathic now, dropping into corners with the slightest puch on the bars.

Give it a go and let me know how it worked out

Toyed with this idea a while ago,but ever bothered. Had the Rsvr before this T and had to get rid of it due to the pressure on me poor wrists. I even tried Gilles Variobars and it still gave me jip. Coming off sports bikes to just the T took a bit of getting used to[I had another T for a while but as a second bike] and facing down with your weight on the clip ons is tonnes different than the sit up style. I got to know what my T would actually do on a corner one day when a hedge came at me faster than it should. 'OOH ****', shoved the wide bars down and round we went :thumbup.

Tell you what I have noticed though, the difference between the standard handle bar setting and moving them back 20mm. Staggering, I was still getting a bit of bother in my hands and moved them back[towards me] and it was ok for general nobbing about[no pun intended]. But on me first proper ride I was always leaning over the tank trying to get some weight on the front. I felt like I was almost supermoto styley. So back they went, but you still got a put a bit of weight on for serious razzing.

What I could probably do with is a general suspension setting for a 16 stone lump. It's a bit stiff all round. I like to feel the bike bite on the back if you know what I mean. I had a fiddle about trying to soften up the stock settings and it was crap. I'm no suspension guro so any tips would be appreciated. Theres more dials and gizmo's on the factory than I'm used to. I try and find roads that are more stop start than big long sweeps. I like the intensity. What better bike than a big thumping twin and Brembo's :thumbup


This wasn't the short reply you expected was it !!!

I took my last couple of bikes to a place near us with a good reputation and they did a great job but i reckon its time to stop being lazy and learn.

Troytheboy: lifting the fork legs in the yokes is going to be my next mod. I like the way mine steers now, albeit it could steer a little faster on the tip-in. I would not have to 12mm straight away though. After reading your post, I think I'll try that first - at least that will tell me straight away if there's improvement to be had.

Nobi: I set the rebound on both frobt and rear to give about a 1 second rebound from compressed to static. (push down hard on either f or r and it will take about 1 second to recover to full height.) This made it feel like it was one rails - really settled. You know if you've gone too far on the rebound clickers if it starts to 'pack down' over a series of bumps or corrugations.

I need to uprate my rear spring (because I'm a chunkylad) to setr the sag properly though.

Whilst at the track on Saturday I increased the the rebound on the back (cranking it down some more... correct me if I'm wrong) and increased the rebound pressure on the front so that the front didn't go down like a whore at a Shriners convention... Seemed to help. I'm thinking though that chunkster might have the right idea. I may get a stiffer spring, or even upgrade to a Maxton or Ohlins. Next on the list is to head over to Nick's place and get him to help me lower the forks through the yokes a leetle. I've read on the Aprilia forum that anywhere from 5-10 mm does well. Might try the 12mm just to get a little radical. Now all I need is a heated garage for the winter...

Shvl & Chunky - Not too sure if the 12mm Yoke drop through would apply as I have the factory with Upside down Ohlin forks. The top section is different when measuring from the top of the fork to the yoke. I would drop yours 5mm more than stock and give it a go....

As for front suspension you basically want pre-load (big nut on the top) enough to give you 10mm travel left on your fork with normal spirited riding. I alway use the tie wrap trick. Wind your pre load in a few turns from stock then go for a ride for 5 mins and then check travel left on the tie wrap....just keep winding in the stiffness until you dont bottom out but get it to within 10mm of the bottom.

Re-bound (adjustemnt at the top - alan key or screw) is like Chunk said about 1 second to return to top with no sign of bounce.

Compression (adjustment at bottom) enough to stop any dipping under braking but not too sevre as to stop wait transfer under braking......more of a feel thing.

Facking brilliant Tboy!!! Going to go put the T back to street trim and go out and toy with some tie wraps. Any tips on how to adjust compression ie all the way in, then two turns out? And dinnae ferget that being over 19 stone kind of makes standard settings quail in the face of adversity.