My suspension linkage needs replacing can anyone tell me the procedure for it please
suspension linkage issues
- Thread starter Timmser
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Joined Feb 2012
387 Posts | 8+
Bristol
there's a few threads on this: e.g.
http://tuonozone.com/aprilia-rsv-tu...ension-connecting-rod-swingarm-dog-bones.html
it depends on what needs replacing - is it bearings,, dog bones themselves, the actual rods?
http://tuonozone.com/aprilia-rsv-tu...ension-connecting-rod-swingarm-dog-bones.html
it depends on what needs replacing - is it bearings,, dog bones themselves, the actual rods?
Joined Jul 2009
1K Posts | 35+
Harrogate
Bugga.... at least you spotted it before it failed (i hope)
Above link covers it....
you will need an abba stand (or similar) - you cant use a "normal" paddock stand
assume your buying a new dog-bone - if so i think they come complete with new bearings so you dont have to worry about those...
tiz pretty straight forward, but it can be difficult to remove the bolt at the engine end of the dog-bone - you may have to pull the springs off the header pipe and pull the exhaust out of the way...
Worth checking the other linkage bearings (where the link plate connects to the swing arm) - for the cost it would make sense to replace them too....
Oh - loads of grease !
I didn't but there was no damage really I'm having problems getting the exhaust off its not really splitting for me should I take it down from the head?
Joined Jul 2009
1K Posts | 35+
Harrogate
Did mine a while back.... plenty of WD40 around the exhaust joints..... remove springs and silencer mounting bolts etc. i used a rubber mallet and tapped gently until it started to separate...
think a spare pair of hands would help... one pushing down on the silencer pipes (gently) the other tapping with the mallet. You dont have to completely separate... just move em enough to get the bolt out.
Have heard other removing the down pipe tho... i did manage without
think a spare pair of hands would help... one pushing down on the silencer pipes (gently) the other tapping with the mallet. You dont have to completely separate... just move em enough to get the bolt out.
Have heard other removing the down pipe tho... i did manage without
Joined Sep 2008
273 Posts | 2+
PLYMOUTH, DEVON, ENGLAND
good job you caught it in time, mine let go in spain , I was lucky I was going very slow at the time, if it had gone in the mountains it would have been a VERY STICKY ENDING
http://tuonozone.com/aprilia-tuono-1000/6111-oooopps-not-supposed-look-like.html
http://tuonozone.com/aprilia-tuono-1000/6111-oooopps-not-supposed-look-like.html
I had to take mine to a workshop to get the link pipe off, the mechanics said it was glowing bright red with the heat they had to use to loosen it. I now remove it every month
Joined Feb 2012
387 Posts | 8+
Bristol
if it's a gen 2 You only need to take the cans off, then loosen the spring on the rear cylinder exhaust, pull it down - you have enough room to wiggle the engine side bolt out.
I hung mine from the garage roof through the rear footpegs. Again if you do a search you'll see a post or two - it's WELL worth doing some research on hints and tips the info is already there...
oh yes and as for grease - try water proof assembly grease....
I hung mine from the garage roof through the rear footpegs. Again if you do a search you'll see a post or two - it's WELL worth doing some research on hints and tips the info is already there...
oh yes and as for grease - try water proof assembly grease....
That's how I managed it thanks for the tip though I used a rod through the swing arm and axle stands worked well
I just did this and used a trolley jack under the engine. No need to take anything off at all if you have nimble hands
Joined Jul 2008
1K Posts | 26+
Not a case of nimble hands fella. the access to the pin is fine, it's the clearance, or rather the lack of it that causes the problem.
In 99% of cases the bottom pin (the one attached to the frame) can't be pulled without dropping the rear header.
After servicing the dogbone & bearings, some swap the pin around so that it pulls out from the l/h side, however, this can cause problems with insufficient clearance between the locknut and the header.
What side/direction does your bottom pin pull from?
Yeah Tifa, I spoke too soon, I'd got the other two off fine and thought I could squeeze out the rear but no. Managed to do it by just levering the header down a tad (slip-ons off). That one was fine if a bit dry, as was the bottom and the plates, but the top bearings needed replacing - I order these, here:
2 x HK 1812 INA Drawn cup needle roller bearing with open ends HK 1812 INA Drawn Cup Needle Roller Bearings - Bearing King
2 x R21 Single lip nitrile rubber metric rotary shaft oil seal with garter spring 18mm inside x 24mm outside x 3mm wide 18 x 24 x 3 R21 Oil Seals O Rings Circlips - Bearing King
£10.01 incl vat and 2nd class del total
They were ordered and dispatched today so hopefully will have them before easter. I'll update if I have any probs.
Thanks for all this info guys.
2 x HK 1812 INA Drawn cup needle roller bearing with open ends HK 1812 INA Drawn Cup Needle Roller Bearings - Bearing King
2 x R21 Single lip nitrile rubber metric rotary shaft oil seal with garter spring 18mm inside x 24mm outside x 3mm wide 18 x 24 x 3 R21 Oil Seals O Rings Circlips - Bearing King
£10.01 incl vat and 2nd class del total
They were ordered and dispatched today so hopefully will have them before easter. I'll update if I have any probs.
Thanks for all this info guys.
Last edited:
Joined Jul 2008
1K Posts | 26+
Those bearings you've got there seem fine.
They're a bit different from the oe ones though, hence the price differential.
I'd guess there's about 20-24 needle rollers?
The oe ones have 31 needle rollers per cage, so would probably be able to take more radial thrust.
Can't see it making much difference though....and for the money...what's not to like eh?
They're a bit different from the oe ones though, hence the price differential.
I'd guess there's about 20-24 needle rollers?
The oe ones have 31 needle rollers per cage, so would probably be able to take more radial thrust.
Can't see it making much difference though....and for the money...what's not to like eh?
