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Water Problems

Joined Aug 2011
5 Posts | 0+
Hi All
I have recently joined the ranks of the Tuono owners, I sold a TDR250 to afford my 05 Tuono so there is a theme there then, nutter twin cylinder bike with wide hadlebars!!!!
Anyway the bike is great but completely stock so like a blank canvas for me to play with!
Anyway I was looking at the bike and I had the right hand side panel off and noticed that there were two wires that looked like they had come apart so I dutifully connected them (I know what they are now, before you all shout at me).
When I next started the bike the left had display showed error 21 which I think is the temp sensor. Looking at the water bottle it was empty, but there did seem to be water at the screw top up where my right knee would be. Does anyone have a suggestion about the best way forward. I was thinking of putting some distilled water in the bottle and running it with the wires disconnected and see what happens and if it all sorts it's life out renew the coolant. The thing is it may not have had water in it from the start as I can't remember looking. On the way back from picking it up from Scotland it was rock steady at 76 degrees for all 230 miles!
Thanks
Heath
 
Hi All

Anyway the bike is great but completely stock...
New or used? Used, it sounds neglected with a code present. New, what dealer would send that kind of bike out with a dry recovery tank? I've seen some crazy stuff, so I'm not about to guess.

Anyway I was looking at the bike and I had the right hand side panel off and noticed that there were two wires that looked like they had come apart so I dutifully connected them (I know what they are now, before you all shout at me).
And with a connection that fits so close together and were apart as you noticed, something is fishy. I doubt the fish could survive in the recovery tank is one.


When I next started the bike the left had display showed error 21 which I think is the temp sensor.
I'd like to find that book with the list of codes. How about what little I know of the product, I too am on a learning curve with said T. Let me ask thee, with that code set, there is a backup parameter it follows...

... If it is a water temp sensor calling a low level or is set too hot and sends a warning lamp? Spits out a code? Watt happens next is the fan will come on a lot. Did the fan run or did you notice the fan kept on blowing that temp all normal for that many miles?

Looking at the water bottle it was empty, but there did seem to be water at the screw top up where my right knee would be. Does anyone have a suggestion about the best way forward. I was thinking of putting some distilled water in the bottle and running it with the wires disconnected and see what happens and if it all sorts it's life out renew the coolant.
Well, we are back again to neglect or prep. Here is the thing. The new coolant has sat for how long? Even a new leftover needs a flush. A couple of years sitting on the floor with a dry corner? Or maybe they moved the bike a lot and the upright kept wet enough not to corrode in that dry atmosphere. Time will eat things, right?

The thing is it may not have had water in it from the start as I can't remember looking. On the way back from picking it up from Scotland it was rock steady at 76 degrees for all 230 miles
I would have to agree. A dry water cooled engine wont last 10 minutes with even half the amount in, meaning, that pump is pushing that water into air, not transferring heat from water to water droplet. Makes sense to me you had plenty in the radiator seeing it with the knee-cap off as it were.

Back to the faster flush and get it over with. I'd [50co/50dis] with coolant and distilled. I'd want some lube at the water pump blades. I'd run full distilled if I could, but that pump needs lube and if you want to change the ratio for summer, fine. When winter comes along and you park it? Better crack the radi cap so [water] can expand or it will crack things inside instead [w/cap on].

70co/30dis would be for all around park it with cap on. 20co/80dis would cover the summer run, [not winter] however, it still lubes the pump unit. Take your pick, but run some sort of ratio for the pump.
 
if the efi warning light didnt come on whilst riding it there was no fault there
when you connected the service connector did it read 21 or -1 ?
1, 0or -1 is the throrrle position sensor reading
ps the early tuonos up to 2005 like yours had no memory capability so as soon as you switched the ignition off any fault readings would be erased

i sugest to top up the coolant bottle,run the bike up to temperature observing the temp,water level in the resovoir and fan operation
if all as i suspect is fine ride it and observe again
then put ya helmet on and enjoy the bloody thing


ps 2know
you need to get out more :yes
 
Bike was bought privately but had a full service history. Interestingly I had difficulty getting it in gear. Looking at the bike I noticed that the fluid in the clutch master cylinder was very dirty looking, I bet it has never changed in the life of the bike! Gawd knows what the mechanics were thinking about, not bloody clutches!. 15mins with some tubing and some fresh fluid and it's now good as new. After a few more miles I'll flush it through again.
 
ps the early tuonos up to 2005 like yours had no memory capability so as soon as you switched the ignition off any fault readings would be erased

ps 2know
you need to get out more :yes

I wish. Now that I have you here, you seem to know the product and I'm on a learning curve myself. My late model had a turn signal code as I checked my wiring. That light triangel blinks with key off. Will that blinking triangle stop or do you have to manually shut it off with a factory tool or a paper clip? Know any tricks you can pass along to clear that or will a few more key cycles clear [the blinking triangle] with the later models T's?

TY:crazy
 
Looking at the bike I noticed that the fluid in the clutch master cylinder was very dirty looking...

they all do that Sir....
The seal in the slave cyl is crap, and leaves deposits on the wall of the piston recess...this in turn is absorbed by the fluid and darkens the colour...over a few months it will go back to black again...
It's not harmful, and not problematic either...most here either haven't noticed it, or haven't bothered to fix it....there are no reported issues afaik
 
they all do that Sir....
The seal in the slave cyl is crap, and leaves deposits on the wall of the piston recess...this in turn is absorbed by the fluid and darkens the colour...over a few months it will go back to black again...
It's not harmful, and not problematic either...most here either haven't noticed it, or haven't bothered to fix it....there are no reported issues afaik

the black fluid is caused by heat off the engine (why they couldnt insulate it is beyond my comprehension)

and the flashing symbol is your immobiliser light to show the nasty theif that the bike is imobilised
some moto guzzi models you can switch it off using the mode switch,but im not actualy sute wether you can on the gen2,i will have a look tomorrow at work
it isnt realy summat i have ever been asked to do
 
and the flashing symbol is your immobiliser light to show the nasty theif that the bike is imobilised
some moto guzzi models you can switch it off using the mode switch,but im not actualy sute wether you can on the gen2,i will have a look tomorrow at work
it isnt realy summat i have ever been asked to do

Thanks, CT. It's kind of funny how the dealer is quick to point out how modified my bike is. I have a clean screen. There is not a "SERVICE" or 'right turn winker' displayed. I love this bike, it was a bulb. And how about that AFR meter. That is like a phone jack off the cigarette lighter in a new car. Will that void the warranty to the car? I have that AFR running off the the key switch to a hot, unused connector wire. There is no code present. How can they or Aprilia for that matter; keep bringing up a stored winker code on me it's so funny.

Even nitpick a code. Oh, I disconnected this connector to clean my bike. It was easy to clean and oops, I forgot to plug it back in and saw my SERVICE light come on. Plugged it back in and she has a clear dash now. Did that void my warranty? I don't think so, dealer principal.

And the sad part is, I asked about that blinking triangle as in, 'you might be right' about that anti theft blink, CT. They [dealer principal] think it is one more code zapping at me. A saved code is to help the mechanic if it took a watt of phantom and cleared itself, meaning, intermittent, go find it. However, that shop manual is sort of vague as it mentions the blink. So, either some gen2 [last year model] has the winking and I have one? Humm. Would it be easy to tell if any one else has that same blinking/no code/blinked since day one/key off/theft device?

Thanks for that check to turn it off, CT. Found nothing in the mode scrolling.
 
Quick update, the overflow bottle wasn't empty, it was the reverse problem. It was overfilled which is why I couldn't see the level in the sight window. Looking at the display it seems to be showing -1 so I assume it is about the throttle position sensor. So can anyone point me to a decent description of how to adjust the TPS, I did find something but it was a little brief, does the engine need to be running to do it?
Thanks
 
The TPS is preset and usually never goes out of spec. Did you move it so it now reads -1? No, I don't know if you need the engine running. My first try is to loosen the bolts, key on, tap to one direction and wait. If nothing, turn key off and let it cycle that ping. If it clears, tighten the TPS you found it again. Something like that sort of variable adjustment.
 
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