Valve clearance checking

Yeah I have, pig of a job, steep learning curve. But once you've done it once it's ok. Shims are easy to get hold of :eatcorn

V-twindude said:

Firstly, nice ****s

Click to expand...

Thanks I calls em pinky & perky :biggrin

Yeah I had to change 3 outlet & 2 inlet shims as they were either on the limit or too tight :roll

My guide I made when I checked mine.
Remove seat.



Unbolt tank and lift up.





Note: To make access easier it is best to cut a piece of wood to hold the tank up as high as possible rather than the prop that comes with the bike.

Remove the air box lid.
Remove air filter.
Remove crankcase breather from bottom of air box.
Remove vacuum sensor from bottom of air box.
Remove air box lower half from throttle bodies .


To make it easier to get the cam covers off it is best to remove the throttle bodies (2 x jubilee clips) and move them over to the left out of the way.

Note: place a rag over the frame spar to prevent scratching and put rags in the inlet rubbers to prevent anything falling into the engine inlets.



It is now possible to remove the cam covers. I done the rear cylinder first.

Note: clean any dirt and grime off the covers and surrounding areas before removing the covers to prevent getting grit or dirt inside the engine.

The cover bolts are quite hard to get to so a combination of tools are required. I had to use a small ratchet to get to some and extension bar and universal joint/wobble bar to get to others.

Rear lid off



Make sure the cam lobes are not pressing on the buckets. the position of the cams shown below is perfect for checking clearances.

Note: the way I turned the engine over to get the cams in the right position was to put the bike in top gear (6th) and with the wheel off the ground on the paddock stand I turned the back wheel forwards until the cams where in the right position. It is hard to turn over but if you remove the spark plugs it will be easier (need to change them for the service anyway).

My guide I made when I checked mine.
Remove seat.



Unbolt tank and lift up.





Note: To make access easier it is best to cut a piece of wood to hold the tank up as high as possible rather than the prop that comes with the bike.

Remove the air box lid.
Remove air filter.
Remove crankcase breather from bottom of air box.
Remove vacuum sensor from bottom of air box.
Remove air box lower half from throttle bodies .



To make it easier to get the cam covers off it is best to remove the throttle bodies (2 x jubilee clips) and move them over to the left out of the way.

Note: place a rag over the frame spar to prevent scratching and put rags in the inlet rubbers to prevent anything falling into the engine inlets.



It is now possible to remove the cam covers. I done the rear cylinder first.

Note: clean any dirt and grime off the covers and surrounding areas before removing the covers to prevent getting grit or dirt inside the engine.

The cover bolts are quite hard to get to so a combination of tools are required. I had to use a small ratchet to get to some and extension bar and universal joint/wobble bar to get to others.

Rear lid off



Make sure the cam lobes are not pressing on the buckets. the position of the cams shown below is perfect for checking clearances.

Note: the way I turned the engine over to get the cams in the right position was to put the bike in top gear (6th) and with the wheel off the ground on the paddock stand I turned the back wheel forwards until the cams where in the right position. It is hard to turn over but if you remove the spark plugs it will be easier (need to change them for the service anyway).

Part 2

Check each clearance in turn and write them down as you go.









Do the same for the front cylinder.

Note: the engine will have to be turned over tot he correct position for checking the valves. see technique above.

There is one bolt that is hard to see and get to, extension bars and a universal joint are required unless you want to take a radiator off which I did not!

You can see the bolt if you remove the left fairing panel and radiator fan (just above header pipe).



Lid off



Check as before.
The only tricky one is the exhaust valve under the cover, this requires a little more patience but is not too much bother.

Make sure you note down all the settings and keep as a record.



Before putting it all back together it makes sense to 'tack' the valve cover rubber gaskets in place to the lid with a little instant gasket silicon.
There is no need to cover the whole lid just tack it in the corners to stop it falling off while you re-fit the lids onto the engine.

Note: on the front cylinder there is a sensor wire entering at the back left of the head, make sure the old sealant is cleaned off before re-assembly and that you apply some instant gasket silicon across this wires rubber seal to prevent any possible oil leak.

wow great guide !!!

a job for tomorrow !!

That guide helped me do mine also..

PM me your email address and Ill send you a valve clearance spreadsheet which tells you what shims you need if any :thumbup