Hi, I have a 09 Tuono and I feel the front brakes are a little woody and the initial grabby effect is not that effective. There is life on the brake pads, and I have like 8k miles ont he bike. Would swapping to EBC pads make it better?
Tuono Front Brake
- Thread starter fredflinston
- Start date
Joined Aug 2009
5K Posts | 62+
Sunderland
Not sure what you rode before a T, but I think they are spot on for road riding.
Are the pads worn ?
Mine are still on standard pads have always been "grabby" apart from the time I got some ACF 50 on them.
Are the pads worn ?
Mine are still on standard pads have always been "grabby" apart from the time I got some ACF 50 on them.
Joined Oct 2011
4K Posts | 66+
COUNTY DURHAM
They have been like that for long time. I had a Triumph ST3 before and that had Niffins and that was grabby. I can try bleeding the brakes, are the front brakes bleeding as tricky as rear brakes or plain old bleeding.
Joined Jul 2008
1K Posts | 26+
Joined Dec 2008
6K Posts | 84+
Usually at the top of the apple tree.
I have the original pads in them and I checked and they are Brembos. Yes I was referring to Nissins, my ST3 had Nissins.
How do I check for Seized pistons? Also if I grab is enough it does feel good but not as good my Nissins and ofcourse ST3 was a little lighter.
Joined Aug 2009
5K Posts | 62+
Sunderland
No 2 bikes will feel the same when it comes to brakes. I test rode a Tiger 800 last year and its brakes felt better than my T. I prefer the T's brakes as they are more progresive.
Bleeding is easy.
Bleeding is easy.
Joined Dec 2008
6K Posts | 84+
Usually at the top of the apple tree.
ff, mine don't grab the way they were when the bike wiz new. Still original pads at 17.5k and I must admit that I prefer the way they feel now to when they were new.
Take the callipers off and gently press the brake lever, you see if the pistons moves or not, you could even put a screwdriver between the pads, that way you can feel it compressing the driver.
Take the callipers off and gently press the brake lever, you see if the pistons moves or not, you could even put a screwdriver between the pads, that way you can feel it compressing the driver.
Last edited:
FF, be careful when you check for seized pistons when the caliper is off the bike.
As Aldo said, put something between the pads to stop the piston coming out too far.
Things to watch :-
Kep an eye on the fluid level - dont let it get down too far or it could suck in air, but dont top it up when the pads are out, could overflow when new pads are put in.
All pistons will not come out together - some take a bit more effort than others to get them moving, you will have to stop the easy ones to try & get the others to move - from this judge if they are seized or partially seized.
Dont let the pistons come out too far, they can get past the seal & will mean a re-build & bleed.
BUT- MOST important, give the lever a good squeeze a few times when you put it back together. If you dont, you will hit the first bend or corner & **** yourself, it certainly wakes you up if you dont.
As Aldo said, put something between the pads to stop the piston coming out too far.
Things to watch :-
Kep an eye on the fluid level - dont let it get down too far or it could suck in air, but dont top it up when the pads are out, could overflow when new pads are put in.
All pistons will not come out together - some take a bit more effort than others to get them moving, you will have to stop the easy ones to try & get the others to move - from this judge if they are seized or partially seized.
Dont let the pistons come out too far, they can get past the seal & will mean a re-build & bleed.
BUT- MOST important, give the lever a good squeeze a few times when you put it back together. If you dont, you will hit the first bend or corner & **** yourself, it certainly wakes you up if you dont.
Joined Nov 2010
422 Posts | 2+
Tamworth, staffs
hey hey!
The symptoms you speak of ,to me do point at maybe some contaminated pads, the lads here are spot on with the description of how to bleed and monitor the brakes (as always, top blokes!)
the wooden sensation you mention can happen to pads when there contaminated with just normal road dirt this also goes hand in hand with the lack of initail bite youre experiencing.
you can clean pads easily and effectively
1.remove the pads and lay them on a flat surface friction material upwards
2.wrap some clean emery cloth around a file and rub across the friction material until itlooks clean, use the file to keep the sweeps across the pads square,flat and straight.
3 clean the pads off with some brake cleaner.
4. dont forget to clean the discs off with some claen cloth also as theres every chance that this is part of the problem also!
hope this helps?
Cheers
Griff
The symptoms you speak of ,to me do point at maybe some contaminated pads, the lads here are spot on with the description of how to bleed and monitor the brakes (as always, top blokes!)
the wooden sensation you mention can happen to pads when there contaminated with just normal road dirt this also goes hand in hand with the lack of initail bite youre experiencing.
you can clean pads easily and effectively
1.remove the pads and lay them on a flat surface friction material upwards
2.wrap some clean emery cloth around a file and rub across the friction material until itlooks clean, use the file to keep the sweeps across the pads square,flat and straight.
3 clean the pads off with some brake cleaner.
4. dont forget to clean the discs off with some claen cloth also as theres every chance that this is part of the problem also!
hope this helps?
Cheers
Griff
Joined Nov 2010
422 Posts | 2+
Tamworth, staffs
Alright dude
It doesn't matter what you use, as long as it flat so you can wrap your emery cloth around it !!
The cloth does the cleaning and not the file! I just use one of those cos it's flat!
Hope this makes sense, or have I lost the plot again? Hehe
Joined Oct 2011
4K Posts | 66+
COUNTY DURHAM
