Tuono Dyno..... Very Poor

Hey Towie - WTF??

AF1 have a power commander for your model T for $299USD here:http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=2665.

That should solve your tuning probs next time on the dyno.

I can't understand why your T doesn't have a chip, if our mates at Eurocycle had the pipe fitted as a 'factory' option.......

Mind you, it didn't feel 'flat' in any part of the rev range (up to about 8k anyway) when I test rode it in March.

Dave

Towie

Have you tried talking to John Cicero at Revheadz in Townsville? http://revhedz.net/townsville/index.php

They're the new Ape dealer here. I have not tried their service department yet, but there's not too many Ape dealers around, so choice is limited...

Dave

PS: There's a Revheadz in Cairns, but it doesn't look like they're an Aprilia dealer - only Kawasaki(?)http://revhedz.net/cairns/index.php

Out of interest, what type of dyno is it? There are two main types I'm aware of and one (eddy current from memory?) consistently delivers a lower figure than the more popular Dynojet dyno. The Dynojet uses a lot of variable calculations to effect the final number, a guy wants to make you feel good he can mix the right inputs and hey presto the bike makes 135hp. On an eddy current (I hope I've got that right) dyno you'd only see 100hp for the same bike under the same conditions. Or if it was a Dynojet perhaps the operator is not very good and didn't calibrate it right.

All that said, make sure you get the matching chip. I had a mechanic at AF1 in Brighton pull the same stunt except I knew the chip was there, he just refused to give it to me - "you don't need it, you've got a PCIII". Well ******** spannerhead! When I finally got it by bringing it up with the service manager that "I'd be having that chip thanks mate" I noticed an instant change. The bike felt like it was tuned better immediately without having changed any other settings. I've since balanced the throttle bodies after letting the now defunct Moto1 do a tune up and got an even better running bike. Moral? Numbers are just numbers unless it's in inches and the missus is counting and do your own work where possible because too many mechanics don't give a stuff about doing a good job.

Chips

103 sounds a bit low, the best I am getting out of mine 117 here in Hervey Bay.
Mine made a **** load more HP in Victoria and it's only been with the addition of a PC111 USB that I have got it up anywhere near where it used to be. Still not as brutal as it used to be.
Been my experience that with increased humidity and heat the HP drops off.
Biggest problem with Gen1 Tuono is it does not have a lambada sensor.
Oxygen Sensor.
So it can not make corrections to the fuel/air ratio.
So essentially, if you get your bike running right for one geographical location it will not feel as good when you travel somewhere else.
Like with a two stroke and you go from the beach to the mountains.
You have to make jetting changes.
Back to your bike, if your running an Akra can and OEM chip, you will be running lean, regardless of if you cut the wire or not on pin 16.
There has been debate if cutting the wire even has an effect on Australian models.
Regardless, you need an upgraded chip with more timing advance not to mention more fuel to utilize the better breathing properties of pipe, derestricted air box and Hi Flo air cleaner .
My advice is, if Aprilia don't come up with the chip that is supplied with the Akra slip on, I can not remember the number, get on the AF1 forum, PM Gabro, ask him to supply you with a V5 chip.
Should be able to supply you one for around $100.
Problem solved.
Never mind your Co readings of 13.5 - 14%
Aprilia's like fuel off the bottom, got something to do with getting those 4 inch slugs moving in a hurry off idle.
Tune it like a carbed engine with the big brass air screws on the left of the throttle bodies.
Then fine tune the two Co adjusters on your ECU.
Just like a carb, turn the air screws in (clockwise) till it starts to idle rough then back it out till it smooths out and you get an even idle, alternate between the two screws till you get the best result.
Same with the Co adjusters, only you only have to move them a little each way, starting with them both in the 12 o'clock position.
Upping the Idle to about 2k will help to give a more positive feel when your making your adjustments.
Just keep in mind that a V twin will never idle 100% smooth as it has a short then a long firing stroke. Sounds like it's even for a about 5 beats then it will miss one.
Try and keep the temp below I think it's 87c as the ECU will richen up the fuel to compensate for the increased engine temp, a good fan helps here.
If you need any help or advice, feel free to PM me and I will get back to you when I can.
Good luck.
Lionel