Tach needle rest problem. Gauge needle for tach rests about 5k counter-clockwise!

Welcome Dp, It sounds like the needle has spun on the spindle???

I'm sure someone will find a fix for you.

There's an edit box for altering your posts but it's only there for a short time after you post.

Tifa is the resident Clocks expert.

I think you probably need to pull the dash apart and re set the needle.

If the needle swing tae the left from 12k doon tae 6k when runnin ie soonds like its workin backwards.

Mibbe a polarity issue wi the rewired stuff? Nae idea really wiz jist a random thought

I've got a similar bro.
His tool box has only two items in it, guess whit they are.

Ooops sorry, make that three.

Did anyone find a fix for this? I'm having the same issue

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You could try using a fairly strong magnet. Put a tissue under it so as not to scratch the display lens. Then rotate magnet anticlockwise and see/hope it might rotate the needle mechanism.

When I last removed my clocks I noticed the rev counter needle moved freely... so assumed it would find it's reference position once energised (i.e. ignition turned on). I left the needle in the approx correct location, hence didn't test this hypothesis.

However, accessing clocks isn't particularly hard, and is required to replace bulbs anyway.

Process is:
1) Remove fairing (4 allen key head bolts) and disconnect headlight connector.
2) Remove 3 10mm (plus washers) nuts on back of clocks.
- You probably may also need to remove plastic tray above wiring loom (via 4 Allen key bolts), to access white connector on back of clocks.
3) Remove shroud around white connector, push tab in and pull white connector off clocks.

4) Clocks then lift up and off bike.

5) Take clocks into a clean environment, like 'kitchen table' (wife permitting) or office.
6) Using small cross head screwdriver, remove 8 (approx) screws in back of clock unit.
7) Gently lift back cover off clocks and also gasket (which re-locate on lugs).
8) Internal PCB clock module then lifts out of the front casing.
9) You can then wind the rev counter to desired position with your finger. As said, it turns freely.

Re-assembly is simply the reverse of the above.
Be careful tightening screws into the plastic housing. I squeeze the housing together with one hand to compress the gasket, then nip screws to biting point and no more. otherwise you will strip thread out of the plastic securing lugs.

P, don't remember it anything like that mucker.

I did the ****-Tex patch fix to stop my clocks fogging.

Sorry mucker just noticed it's a gen1. :yes

I'm going to take the dash apart to finally fix the tach needle so I might as well upgrade the headlights. What size are they and anyone have any recommendations for brighter ones? What's the consensus on LEDs? And my housing is starting to rust, and way to treat it and clean it or should I replace after it gets pretty bad?

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Housing isn't rusting as it's made of plastic! . But they go brown (usually below the bulbs) due to heat of the bulbs. Happens on many of the Tuoldos. You could try to paint it using a fine brush thorough the bulb opening, but could be tricky!

Gen 1 bulbs are H4 if I recall. Some info here on brighter bulbs: http://tuonozone.com/aprilia-tuono-v4/11820-replacement-headlight-bulb.html

I changed my 5W5 pilot light bulb for a 5W5 CREA, 6,000k replacement, which is about 2W but many times brighter, which helps get you noticed when riding, unlike the pointless original.

Awesome, thanks for all the info. I'll have to report back with what I do and send pics on how it all turns out.

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