Suspension Set Up

Damn Dood.. thas a big can of worms... everyone seems to like the suspension set up differently... the Tuono R 2007 on std settings seems to run wide... in the end i took a day off and started from std settings and did it the hard way, bit at a time.
But! and tis a well rounded butt..... I used the RSV NOT the tuono settings, which means the front forks got dropped through the yolks by 3 lines, that stoppped the front end wander fer a start!
then i used this guide http://yamahaxjr1300.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=29288 which is one i wrote for another forum... feel free chaps to pinch it and post it on here if it helps.

I see you have an 05 - Gen 1 "Tuoldo" like mine.

Drop the forks to get 4 lines showing, you need more weight over the front the older models are a bit rear biased.

Unless it's a racing/factory model you need to buy yourself a new rear shock absorber. The standard Sachs is a good unit, but it's undersprung. This results in the compression damping being set too hard and results in a harsh and choppy ride from the rear end.

Sadly it is almost impossible to adjust the back end to suit if you weigh more than about 10 stones (140lb, 70kg)

To get the very best out of what you have you need to set the "sag" on your suspension - easiest place to find the instructions (if Mogs aren't ok - I haven't looked) is to look on Ohlins website, the process is the same.

Yep, for starters set the sag and then take it from there. You should have around 25mm of sag front and rear (measured as the difference between fully extended and how it sits with you on the bike ready to ride). You can fine tune the handling by going + or - 5mm or so of sag. If you find you need a lot of preload and end up with less than 10mm of free sag (how much the bike settles in its travel under its own weight) that's a good clue the springs are too soft for your weight.

Just to add to Bikepilots advice which I agree with totally, you must get the sag set as without doing so you will never have a base from which to work.

Dropping the forks does help with turn-in and with 4 rings showing you will have be really doing something silly to run wide, but.........you do lose stability. On the rough B roads I ride on here in Yorkshire, the bars are now flapping quitre a bit when "on it". Overall it's down to how you ride and what your looking for of course, but the T will never be a super comfortable ride because it was never designed that way.

Hope these instructions on setting sag help (taken from my Ohlins manual)

Measuring:
Preload on the spring/springs is very important,
because it affects the height of the motorcycle
and the fork angle. Consequently, handling characteristics
can be changed, even negatively.
Proceed as follows (it will be much easier if done
by two persons):
A Place the motorcycle on a stand.
B Lift up the rear end to a fully extended
position.
C Measure the distance, eg, from the
lower edge of the rear mud guard or
from a point marked by a piece of
tape, immediately above the rear wheel
axle, to the wheel axle. (R1)
D Make a similar measurement on the front
axle, e.g., from the bottom of the upper
fork crown to the front wheel axle.
The fork must also be fully extended. (F1)
E Allow the motorcycle (without rider) to
apply load on the springs and repeat
the measuring procedure. (R2, F2)
F Then take the same measurements
with the rider and equipment on the
motorcycle. It is important that the
rider has a correct riding posture,
so that the weight is balanced on the
front and rear wheel in the same way
as when riding. (R3, F3)
The measurements may not differ from the
following sizes:
Without rider:
Rear: 5-10 mm (R1-R2)
Front: 25-30 mm (F1-F2)
With rider:
Rear: 30-40 mm (R1-R3)
Front: 35-48 mm (F1-F3

F9