Stanchion stone chips

parody · Mar 29, 2009

Oh wise gods of planet RSVZone...

Got some stone chips in the Stanchion of my RSV (the black part, not the metallic part that goes up and down). It appears to be made of aluminum as its furring. What can I do to seal it from the weather and preferably colour it black again?

Also got some road rash on RHS panels, anyone done any DIY painting with aerosol paints and had good results?

Sprocker · Mar 29, 2009

parody said:
Oh wise gods of planet RSVZone...

Also got some road rash on RHS panels, anyone done any DIY painting with aerosol paints and had good results?

I resprayed my bellypan with Halfords plastic primer and Satin Black...superb result ...well pleased with my efforts :devious

Boyler · Mar 29, 2009

You will get good results on the fork stanchions from an aerosol ........ the requirements are:

1 ... Chose a near colour match

2 ... wet n dry stanchions to a smooth finish

3 ... use an ENAMEL paint

4 ... apply little and often, flatting back between coats

5 ... be aware it aint a five minute job ....... but the results are good ;-)

Boyler · Mar 29, 2009

SPROCKER .... :thumbup

Your da man, quality finish mate ..............

and not a hint of yellow in sight :devious

OZMILLE · Mar 29, 2009

sprocker said:
I resprayed my bellypan with Halfords plastic primer and Satin Black...superb result ...well pleased with my efforts :devious

Hey Sprock!!

TOP job there fellow :thumbup:thumbup

Now, how did you resurface before prime coat???

Hand sanded, blasted etc??

Also how many coats of the primer???

Did you clear over the satin, either before or after decals???

Sorry for the question mate, but your pics got me itching to do the same to my **** blasted underbelly.

NICE JOB!!

Cheers Pete

PS: Please excuse that I have actually contributed nothing to this thread :devious

parody · Mar 30, 2009

LOL, what OZMILLE said - prep & number of coats of primer and colour? Where did you get decals from? Were the fairing damaged beforehand or just stonechipped?

On the stanchions - am I risking anything by not doing a DIY repair on them? i.e. the fork isnt going to split or anything? And when you say sand until smooth I take it you mean the furring part? As obviously the stanchions themselves are ribbed!

Sprocker · Mar 30, 2009

Boyler said:
SPROCKER .... :thumbup

Your da man, quality finish mate ..............

and not a hint of yellow in sight :devious

Yeah i'm still considering doing the whole bike Satin black as per my thread a while ago :dunno seeing A303's pics has spurred the idea again, I just cant seem to make a decision :roll

OZMILLE said:
Hey Sprock!!

TOP job there fellow :thumbup:thumbup

Now, how did you resurface before prime coat???

Hand sanded, blasted etc??

Also how many coats of the primer???

Did you clear over the satin, either before or after decals???

Sorry for the question mate, but your pics got me itching to do the same to my **** blasted underbelly.

Hand sanded with wet & dry...three coats of white plastic primer and four coats of satin black ( just kept going till the tin was finished :biggrin ) two large cans of satin black were enough. I laquered the front cone and the middle shield that fits between the radiators, but imo it doesn't look as good shiney :roll so at some stage i will redo them plain satin black. When dry, the finish was far better than i was expecting it to be :thumbup ( all paint from Halfords )

parody said:
LOL, what OZMILLE said - prep & number of coats of primer and colour? Where did you get decals from? Were the fairing damaged beforehand or just stonechipped?

The fairing had some scuffs from an off earlier in the year but thy sanded out ok. Got my decals from here SIGNZ just email them and ask for 320mm size :thumbup

Black Sabbath · Mar 30, 2009

Sprock that paint looks sweet old pal. Really sets my mind ticking about my chipped belly pan.

parody · Mar 30, 2009

It does look good. Does finishing on a colour coat without a laquer not leave the surface soft? Gonna take the ears off this weekend and experiment. What grade wet and dry?

Anybody know if the Ally furing on stanchions will spread?

Sprocker · Mar 30, 2009

parody said:
It does look good. Does finishing on a colour coat without a laquer not leave the surface soft? Gonna take the ears off this weekend and experiment. What grade wet and dry?

Anybody know if the Ally furing on stanchions will spread?

I think i used 400 grade to start with , finished with 1200 grade. I left it for a week before fitting to make sure it was fully hardened. (a proper sprayer told me to do that :biggrin)

Apologies, the primer was grey and NOT white as previously stated for the bellypan. It was white primer when i did the yellow side panel. I have no experience of spraying and if i can make a decent job of it anyone can :biggrin (cant say the same for the yellow panel tho', thats a bit pants as it doesn't apply as easy as the Satin )

ukcustombike · Mar 30, 2009

Good job well done there Sprocker :thumbup

pjefferi · Mar 31, 2009

Looks good Sprocker. Halfords do a colour match system which includes most motorcycles. The rear cowl from my CBR1000rr came off a couple of years back and had some road rash. Wet 'n dryed it back and flatted back between coats. Over a period of 5 days of doing thjis allowing it to dry inbetween, the results were as good as new.

Time is of the essence - and it's all in the preparation. Key the surface by rubbing back with wet' n dry. You are looking to dull the surface.

1) Prime - dry - wet 'n dry.
2) Prime - dry - wet 'n dry.
3) Very light first coat (colour) - dry - wet ' n dry.
4) Slightly heavier coat (colour) - dry - wet ' n dry.
5) Slightly heavier 3rd coat. Allow to dry for several days in the warm if possible.
6) If you have very small runs or overspray a product like t-cut will gently take these out but don't rub too hard!

Good luck :thumbup

parody · Apr 1, 2009

1) Prime - dry - wet 'n dry.
2) Prime - dry - wet 'n dry.
3) Very light first coat (colour) - dry - wet ' n dry.
4) Slightly heavier coat (colour) - dry - wet ' n dry.
5) Slightly heavier 3rd coat. Allow to dry for several days in the warm if possible.
6) If you have very small runs or overspray a product like t-cut will gently take these out but don't rub too hard!

Awesome - certainly seems patience and preparation are in order! I didnt realise halfords do colour matching - I will do that as originally was thinking of doing the whole bike with a large lion head decal on each side but that will save having to do the tank which doesnt have anything on it. Lion head would still look goo though!

dangleebals · Apr 1, 2009

hey parody, I'd be tempted to just use a brillo pad to remove the furing and then just use a little acf or wd40 I don't think you want to paint the stantions mate - if anything get it re-anodised

parody · Apr 1, 2009

I'm not bothered by it enough to re-anodise. As long as they aren't going to split or anything silly I'll scrub the furring back and cover with some black enamel then twist the fork around so they are not as visible.

On another note does anyone have any tips on bringing back the shine to the swingsrm where boots and the like rub?

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