Joined Jul 2008
1K Posts | 0+
North Lincolnshire, UK
Joined Aug 2008
131 Posts | 0+
Lincolnshire
Joined Oct 2009
779 Posts | 0+
Sunny Suffolk
Quote, Bike Magazine, April 2010:
"A tooth smaller front sprocket and a two-teeth larger rear drop the gearing by 12%, which is scientific terms means it tries to flip over backwards at even the slightest touch of throttle in first gear, and takes very little persuasion in second too."
The sprocket sizes equate to 15 tooth front and 42 tooth rear, i.e. standard sizes (I'm reasonably sure, someone please correct me if I'm wrong!) are 16t front and 40t rear.
I'm running 15/40 at the mo, seems fun to me!
"A tooth smaller front sprocket and a two-teeth larger rear drop the gearing by 12%, which is scientific terms means it tries to flip over backwards at even the slightest touch of throttle in first gear, and takes very little persuasion in second too."
The sprocket sizes equate to 15 tooth front and 42 tooth rear, i.e. standard sizes (I'm reasonably sure, someone please correct me if I'm wrong!) are 16t front and 40t rear.
I'm running 15/40 at the mo, seems fun to me!
Joined May 2009
16 Posts | 0+
MANCHESTER UK
THANKS SPARKY so if 15/42 is the same as 16/40.so if i go 15/44.i should get better milage out of front tyre.cause it should never touch down.need to get 15t sprocket and give it a go.ps but will it stop the lumpyness at low speeds.
Joined Oct 2009
787 Posts | 0+
timbuctoo
yeah u are correct ...standard size is 16/40
but i cant feel much different goin 15/42
but sayin that ....i have only been out once since i made the change because of the weather.
46ROB THANKS SPARKY so if 15/42 is the same as 16/40 :dunno
15/42 is NOT the same as 16/40
this change drops the gearing by 12% ,makes the higher gears feel taller
and the around town riding easier (less clutch work)less lumpy at low speeds
some people say it makes the bike accelerate quicker , this is the bit where i cant tell the difference
Joined Oct 2009
787 Posts | 0+
timbuctoo
You see that bit your right hand wraps around....
hahaha weeks :thumbup
wish i could ride the tee , how it deserves to be ridden !!!
Joined Oct 2009
787 Posts | 0+
timbuctoo
heheheh
yeah it does make a difference round town for sure :thumbup
To be honest its a piece of piss to do , and the cost is minimal = well worth doin :yes
you play rugby ? in manchester ??
hey theres a couple of us in this area that go out now and again on tuonos
you should come along for a laff :thumbup
Joined Jul 2008
1K Posts | 0+
North Lincolnshire, UK
Gearing
These spreadsheets are kicking about on a few other forums.
One is quite simple - shows the max speed in each gear for different sprocket combo's and different tyre sections.
The other is more complex and shows a lot of other data about max/min speeds in gears, change speeds - probably aimed at racer types to optimise gearing for different race tracks.
I have amended the gearbox ratios to suit the Gen II tuono, the Tuoldo R models have slightly different gearing, but the overall gearing is close enough.
If you look at max geared speed you see that the Tuono is geared for 180mph in top, with stock 16/40 sprockets
At 15/40 this drops to 171, but 15/42 takes it down to 160, and 15/44 to 153. (16/44 is 163 - as per the Tuoldo)
I know a few lads that have seen speed in the high 150's but this is about twice a year in France, so tall gearing isn't a big issue to me.
Once run in I'll drop to 15/42, might try 15/44 for trackdays - could be a laugh.
These spreadsheets are kicking about on a few other forums.
One is quite simple - shows the max speed in each gear for different sprocket combo's and different tyre sections.
The other is more complex and shows a lot of other data about max/min speeds in gears, change speeds - probably aimed at racer types to optimise gearing for different race tracks.
I have amended the gearbox ratios to suit the Gen II tuono, the Tuoldo R models have slightly different gearing, but the overall gearing is close enough.
If you look at max geared speed you see that the Tuono is geared for 180mph in top, with stock 16/40 sprockets
At 15/40 this drops to 171, but 15/42 takes it down to 160, and 15/44 to 153. (16/44 is 163 - as per the Tuoldo)
I know a few lads that have seen speed in the high 150's but this is about twice a year in France, so tall gearing isn't a big issue to me.
Once run in I'll drop to 15/42, might try 15/44 for trackdays - could be a laugh.
Joined May 2009
112 Posts | 0+
Cumbria
Im new to all this changing sprockets thingy - which brand/ material would you all recommend? Have seen steel, ally, anodised ally etc Renthal, Talon, Supersprox etc Definitely going 15/42 but dont know which brand / material is best
Cheers
Jase
Cheers
Jase
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Joined May 2009
16 Posts | 0+
MANCHESTER UK
go with renthal or talon i have talon anodise gold with gold afam chain there the only two ive used allways been right no hassle.make sure if you change make sure for the right chian size eg 525 the shop were you buy from should sort you out.unless there cowboys.but for wear and tear i dont no which last the longest steel or alloy.but someone on the forum should know.
Joined May 2009
16 Posts | 0+
MANCHESTER UK
go with renthal or talon i have talon anodise gold with gold afam chain there the only two ive used allways been right no hassle.make sure if you change you get the right chian size eg 525or 535 the shop were you buy from should sort you out.unless there cowboys.but for wear and tear i dont no which last the longest steel or alloy.but someone on the forum should know.
Joined Jul 2008
1K Posts | 0+
North Lincolnshire, UK
I ran an alloy Renthall 44 tooth rear for over 10k miles & both it and the chain were fine when I sold the bike (but I fit chain oilers.)
If you dont run an oiler (& most people think they are VFR kit :rolleyes) and you don't lube your chain religiously, then go for a steel tooth sprocket.
If anyone tells you O (or X) ring chains don't need lubrication they are talking out of their arses.yes:megaphone
Without constant lubrication the hardened rollers and side plates of your chain will rapidly wear an alloy sprocket. This fooks the sprocket, and the aluminium filings turn the chain lube to grinding paste & that fooks the chain.
If you are OK to fit a drive set (chain & sprockets) every year, don't worry about it.
If you want a blingy sprocket go for a Supersprox - alloy centre & steel teeth.
If you dont run an oiler (& most people think they are VFR kit :rolleyes) and you don't lube your chain religiously, then go for a steel tooth sprocket.
If anyone tells you O (or X) ring chains don't need lubrication they are talking out of their arses.
yes:megaphoneWithout constant lubrication the hardened rollers and side plates of your chain will rapidly wear an alloy sprocket. This fooks the sprocket, and the aluminium filings turn the chain lube to grinding paste & that fooks the chain.
If you are OK to fit a drive set (chain & sprockets) every year, don't worry about it.
If you want a blingy sprocket go for a Supersprox - alloy centre & steel teeth.
