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Slow turn in

jennozx10r

jennozx10r

Joined Aug 2009
18 Posts | 0+
Near York
Hi,

I wonder if anyone can help?? I'm really pleased to be back on my 04 RSV Factory, but it feels quite heavy on turning into a corner and is really pushing me off line. I went out this morning with a few mates today and I just felt like the bike didnt want to go into a corner at speed, making me have to wressle with it to get round the corner.

What do you V twin guys reckon as to the best way to stop this from happening? Ihavent had the suspension set up, Ihave altered the front rebound and front compression and it feels loads better than it did, but turning in feels heavy. There are 4 x rings showing on the top of the forks.

Cheers Rich
 
Last edited:
I've got 3 rings showing but mines a 52 plate so will be different as well as our different styles. I've had the heavy turning but was sorted after checking the tyre pressure. Don't want to offend but have you checked them lately?
 
Yes mate I always check my tyre pressures.I always run 38 rear and 34 front on the road. Cheers
 
First and foremost do your static sag, get that right then the damping, less preload on the front will soften the front and make it turn in quicker, adding preload to the rear will do the same, and vice versa.

Do the sag and get the damping in the right ballpark and then alter the rear ride height via the shock, better doing this than pulling the forks through, the Mille works better with a softer front end.
 
Apart from all that good advice, are you running a 190 or 180 rear tyre? I went out on a mate's Mille the other day with a 190 on and nearly did my back in trying to get it into a roundabout! 180 helps a lot (but let's not start that again...!)
 
As said in all above, if it's a 180 try lengthening shock, to make up for smaller diameter of 180 over 190. Mine Ohlins shock is approx 317mm center to center, as per race settings in handbook - raises rear by at least 10mm. Forks have 5 lines showing (1 more ring than standard) - Turns great!:thumbup
 
mkw007 said:
As said in all above, if it's a 180 try lengthening shock, to make up for smaller diameter of 180 over 190. Mine Ohlins shock is approx 317mm center to center, as per race settings in handbook - raises rear by at least 10mm. Forks have 5 lines showing (1 more ring than standard) - Turns great!:thumbup
Click to expand...

3 segments showing are standard on your bike mate, you can only adjust to a max of 10mm on the shock, if you go to max the bottom of the shock fouls the dogbone:thumbup
 
Daft question time - what condition are your tyres in?? 4 rings showing, 34 psi front should equal think you want to turn in and you just did!!
 
34psi in the front will make it steer very heavy & slow if that is the hot pressure , put the front up to 36psi cold & see if that helps try this first without touching anything else & see how it goes & lets know
 
beechy said:
Daft question time - what condition are your tyres in?? 4 rings showing, 34 psi front should equal think you want to turn in and you just did!!
Click to expand...

Sensei - agreed 34psi = cold pressure should equate to 37/38psi hot (depending how much confidence therefore heat you put in them). Even when cold though at 34psi steering shouldn't feel 'heavy'
 
Cheers guys. Ihave new tyres fitted, the rear is a 190 thats what I use on the track and thats what I like on the road lol. I do use a 190/50 on the road and a 190/55 on track. The cold front pressure is 34psi. I will check the sag and alter accordingly, may soften front a bit.

Cheers
 
Badger said:
First and foremost do your static sag, get that right then the damping, less preload on the front will soften the front and make it turn in quicker, adding preload to the rear will do the same, and vice versa.

Do the sag and get the damping in the right ballpark and then alter the rear ride height via the shock, better doing this than pulling the forks through, the Mille works better with a softer front end.
Click to expand...



Badger how do I set my static sag??

Cheers Rich
 
jennozx10r said:
Badger how do I set my static sag??

Cheers Rich
Click to expand...

Fit zip tie on fork leg and lift the front off the ground, push zip tie till it touches the dust seal on fork leg, lower the bike back down slowly so the zip tie is pushed down the fork leg to where the bike is settled on its own weight, this is critical that it is only the bikes weight, it needs to be perfectly upright so you are getting a true reading.

You want between 25 and 30mm on the front, i use 28mm as they run better soft on the road.

To adjust, less preload (anticlockwise) will give more sag, more preload will give less.

Rear sag, put a bit of masking tape on tail unit directly above the rear spindle and put a dot on the masking tape with a pencil/pen.

You need a mate to give a hand with these jobs BTW.

Pull the bike up on the sidestand so the back wheel is of the ground, put the end of your measuring tape in the wheel spindle and run it to the dot on the masking tape, take note of this measurement.

Now get the bike level and bolt upright and push down on the rear of the bike and let it go, take the measurement from spindle to dot again and take not (call this A), then do the same again but this time push the bike up from under the rear and take note of this measurement (call this B).

Next take an average between A & B, so if A is 510mm and B is 512mm then use 511mm as your average.

Last step is take this size from your first size when the wheel was of the ground and the difference is your sag, you want to aim for 10 - 13mm, i use 12mm to cope with bumpy roads better.

To adjust, turn the preload collars on the shock till you get the sag you want. Increasing spring size (less preload) will give more sag and vice versa

Need any more help just shout:thumbup
 
Cheers Badger!! I will endeavour to sort it out

Bloody hell......anyone close to York that is technically minded? I just ride em. With my race bike its easy I just jump on and ride it, when it isnt right I let the guys know and they adjust things accordingly lol
 
Badger said:
3 segments showing are standard on your bike mate, you can only adjust to a max of 10mm on the shock, if you go to max the bottom of the shock fouls the dogbone:thumbup
Click to expand...
5 lines = 4 segments shock lengthened approx 4mm for a length of 317mm - both changes as per Aprilia race settings, improves turning and front feel.:thumbup
 
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