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Showa Forks

D

danf1234

I have got my Showa forks off the bike the at moment, and they are approx 3 months old. (bought new off ebay)

I am debating if to change the fork springs for a hyperpro kit, or prehaps send them away to be serviced.

Question is am I wasting my time and money and should leave them?

How hard is it to change the fork spring and oil - Do I need special tools?
 
It depends what sort of a rider you are.
If you are the pushing on type and live for the twisties then yes
If you are going to do more than 2-3 trackdays in a year then yes
If you are slightly larger than mormal then yes
I think if you are fairly competant and patient then it should be no problems, the amount of Oil you put in will depend upon your weight and riding style.
 
Mate the rsv and Tuono springs are identical.

What your ebay item doesn't say is what spring rate they are because they are avalable from 8.5 to 10.5 nm. (stock is 9.5nm)

usually the only real reason to change springs is if you want to change spring rate because you are too light or heavy for stock or you want progressive springs instead of linear or vice versa. Normally tourers have progressive springs to cope with varying loads like luggage and passengers etc.

If none of the above applies to you just give them a service. It's not that hard with the manual to guide you.
You can always tinker with the oil weight or air gap if you want to alter them slightly.
Sabre services his and tells me the oil is shot by about 10k as a guide to service intervals.
 
OK OK OK,

Point 3 applies to me! LOL

Anyway is it hard to take the old springs out and change the oil? The work shop manual mentions special tools - Can I do it without these? I don't want to get them stripped down to find myself in the ****???
 
I have not done the showa's myself but Sabre has and his toolkit is plastic and has bob the builder on it so special tools ? NOooo

You have to compress the spring to get to the cap lock nut much like the Ohlins and aprilia have a speacial tool for that but a pipe wrench or mole grips with a bit of rubber in the jaws to protect the metal would do the same thing.

If you planning on fitting new seals you will need something to push the seals home and you can buy a slide tool to do that but i use a large socket to do the Ohlins and it works every time. You just have to make sure you are pushing via the rigid outer edge of the seal not near the lip otherwise it will distort the seal.
 
Cheers, No need to do the seals as the forks are only 3 months old. It sounds easy enough so I just need to find some hyperpro springs now LOL!
 
In all honesty do you think I might be over reacting here then.

I weight 16 stone with all my gear on. Can standard cope with that?
 
It varies between riding style, riding locations but if you calculate spring rate by your weight alone which is 224 lbs and the weight of the bike it comes out with a spring rate recommendation of .928 kg/mm or for racing a .993 kg/mm

If your not going racing then the standard .95kg/mm is the closest spring rate for you until you eat too much turkey at crimbo.
 
So does that tell me what I have already in the Showa's is pretty much ideal anyway?
 
Assuming you are 15 out of gear the spring rate is .907 kg/mm but only you know if the bike is correct sag wise or feels overly stiff etc. Calculations are all well and good but everyone rides differently.

This is forks were talking about. Rear spring is a different matter.
 
I way a little more than you Dan and I stuck with the standard Springs. I did change the oil weight to 7.5 and increased the air gap by using slightly less oil. Dont know how much mileage your forks have done but Spoonz is correct about the 10k thing.
Ive sent a pm.
 
Cheers mate,

The forks are brand new. They have done no mileage. All the calculations say that standard is best, so I will leave it as that.

Thanks for taking time to reply and PM though!!!
 

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