rsv idling fine but dies on revs

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Joined
Aug 17, 2016
Messages
9
Location
london
Hi all
new to the forum hopefully someone can help me as im at my wits end??????
So here it goes ....
So i decided to get the tank resprayed on my gen2, while it was at sprayers i removed the air box top section then undone the screws holding the bottom section to move out the way to change the front spark plug, i didnt unplug anything and im quite sure theres nothing disconnected once i put the bottom section back on. After this i then purchased the AP air box mod which just connects onto the bottom using same fixing points. I lubricated the rubber seal with loads of vasoline and put the tank back on. Bike started up first time no dramas revved up as should so took it out for a spin, got about 3 miles away and the bike started spluttering and engine would stop if i opened up the throttle over 3-4k revs and if i twisted to hard. AA bloke came to help as then it completely stopped and wouldnt pull away and found that the i had kinked the braided fuel hose 😣. He showed me this by holding it straight and asking me to rev which went up as should so i jumped back on and rode home no dramas. Once i was home i started the bike bk up and sure enough it wouldnt rev again. Today i recieved a new fuel line so changed that thinking problem solved but bikes still doing the same thing dieing on revs but idling fine... ive checked the inside of tank to make sure theres no obstructions ive checked the fuel lines are connected properly and not kinked and blown through the breathers on fuel cap to make sure there not blocked. I do remember when i was with the AA bloke the EFI warning came up but im guessing thats from when the original fuel line was kinked but it dosent appear now. When the bikes idling and i try to rev its as if its starved of fuel or maybe getting in too much air. I changed the air box bk to original just to make sure it wasnt the new air box mod but still the same. Any ideas???? P.s sorry for the long post
Thanks in advance...
 
Put new plug caps or if you some spare use them to check before buying, you can get them from timgreen 880 eBay less than Aprilia exactly the same. Numbers on plug cap you will see them on his site

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
 
The symptoms were backfiring running on one Clynder all under 4000 rpm at high revs it was OK but trying to pull away from lights say it would not rev cleanly, it worth replacing them just to eliminate, good luck

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I had the same problem not so much the lead the caps are a **** design, I took mine off and all the carbon head was breaking up, it's not expensive, people get fooled by spark at high rev the spark will jump.
I am not saying it will sort it but knon people replacing more expensive parts to find it was the caps.

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Ok when you say cap are you meaning the ht lead rubber boot that fits over the spark plug???
 
Yes mate, mine a gen 2 factory 2005, how do you put pics on this it changed. It's the boot at the end of the plug lead which connects to the plug, have you got new plugs, the can fowl up when not running properly as plugs self clean themselves when operating properly at the right temp, is it two plug head or single plug

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Its a two plug mines a rsvr 2005. I am awaiting new ht leads as we speak but i did change the cap the other day as i did break the internals of original pulling it of plug. I have used a ngk cap that was the right size but when the plugs in the engine the cap dosent seem to fit proply( i.e click) like it does when the plugs in my hand
 
It's the same as mine order the plug caps from from that site on eBay, you will see the number on the side of the original cap from memory I think it was something like 500 if you got problems finding it send us post back and I will find for you, get two clean the plugs and try it make sure all the pipes are connected between throttle bodies and airbox and correctly some of them pipes are tiny and easy to miss.

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Ive got some performance leads with caps on order so will wait for them before i buy anything else. Thanks for the help hopefully thats all it is???
 
It's. Cheap start but it's funny how the cap fell to bits for both us, by the way check the little hoses under airbox I think maybe something came unconnected and all the electrical plugs around that area, Best of luck and let me know how you get on

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Ok so i checled to see if the cap was working properly last night and it seemed fine my next line of thinking is fuel tea bag maybe clogged up going to give that a wash later see what happens
 
Chuck the clean plugs and put them in with caps checking spark outside of engine doesn't give good indication if it's OK as it behaves different under compression and fuel mix, run it with new leads and plug caps and see how it runs

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Ok so a update. Ive repaced the ht leads and no joy still the same issues, however i think i have narrowed it down abit. Earlier i unplugged the throttle body sensor and the bike was still idling fine so i gave it a blip/rev and the bike went up as it should no choking or dieing nothing sounding as if it was fixed, but was shortlived as the bike would only rev up to 5k then it was bouncing as if the bike thought it was at the limit. I then plugged the sensor back in and the bike returned to choking on revs. Am i right in thinking the TBS needs replacing???
 
Morning gents. Ok so after changing a load of parts and effing blinding i have finally found the problem. Turns out that because of the placement of the MAP sensor and me washing the bike with a bucket on a rear paddock stand, water has dripped down back of seat and overcome the little lip. Maybe a design fault but the sensor plug is facing directly up under the lip and the orange rubber was letting by on the wired plug so therefor water got in and corroded the terminals and messed up the sensor. Ive changed the sensor and moved it up abit and now bikes growling as it should. �� happy days.
 

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