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rev limit

Joined Aug 2011
64 Posts | 0+
doncaster
anyone know what the rev limit sould be set to mines at 10000 is this ok
 
I believe you can set your own rev limit, read the manual. :)
 
I believe you can set your own rev limit, read the manual. :)

yes that is in the manual ,, but i was looking for a safe limit would like to keep my motor in one piece ,and i iam a bit heavy handed with the gas lol
 
I've set mine at 10k but hardly ever get to that cos as soon as I get past about 7 my helmet seems to want to be torn off my head with the acceleration.

I don't ride very fast though
 
PS Daz I think your bike would look better with the smaller fairing on.
PPS I read your other post the other day aboutn your bike trapping water in places. Where to as I went out with Stix on a rainy day and mine didn't
 
Boys...ah understand the rev limiter is fixed..think its aboot the 11.5K mark... .what you set is the red indicator light and at what level is up to you. Theres next to no chance of you over revvin it and screwin the motor.
 
Its when u see the moto GP bikes revving up to 18 to 20k. They must be absolutely screaming.
Even when they ride in the wet they're still up around the 14k limit and thats them taking it easy.

What do normal BSB bikes rev at. Are their rev limits higher than the road versions
 
Boys...ah understand the rev limiter is fixed..think its aboot the 11.5K mark... .what you set is the red indicator light and at what level is up to you. Theres next to no chance of you over revvin it and screwin the motor.

What he said.
My warning light comes on at 10,500 but I only hit it on trackdays TBH.
 
I don't think I've ever seen the light come on. Not a big revver me. Same in cars. Torque rules.
 
PS Daz I think your bike would look better with the smaller fairing on.
PPS I read your other post the other day aboutn your bike trapping water in places. Where to as I went out with Stix on a rainy day and mine didn't


i was thinking the same myself not to sure about the big one will have to fit the smaller one and have a look
as for water it seemed to be coming from around the tank head stock area as it was wetting the top of the tank and then flying up into my face would say it was not a lot but still strange as it was 4 days before when i got it wet

forgot to add i was out in the heavest rain i had ever seen
 
Last edited:
Boys...ah understand the rev limiter is fixed..think its aboot the 11.5K mark... .what you set is the red indicator light and at what level is up to you. Theres next to no chance of you over revvin it and screwin the motor.

well mine will only rev to 10000 before it cuts ,,,it also shows the same when i power up and its doing its checks the reason i ask the question in the first place is i keep hitting the the dam rev limit and would like to set it higher but need to know a safe limit before i fiddle

by the way i do ride it like i stole it lol maybe i need to slow down
 
Funny that Daz. I've never noticed any trapped water in mine but I guess it would have evaporated off as its kept in a garage.
 
Not sure about BSB, but the stock limit of a ZXR400 is 14, my limit has been upped to 15 and some set the rev limit to 16k, but have to use special oil to cope with the higher temperature that the engine reaches.
 
My Dyno Jet performance evaluation is Max 9600 after K&N's & Mapping. Origional was Max HP @9800

There you go. If I may. I think 10 is perfect. Here is why. The gear ratio is going to change and bring the rpm lower. So, the more you shift or say put it in overdrive, you want to override that ratio a few hundred rpm so you pop right back onto 9800rpm that is MAX HP range. Look at a dyno map and watch the peak line drop the more rpm you throw at it. So if the tune has combo K&N, you find the higher rpm might be 10,100 rpm or 10,200 rpm.

If say we have ideal conditions, all closed course loop is equal. You bang a red light at 10,300 say and I have a seat of the pants feel when the MAX signs off to it's diminishing returns @9800 all things being equal; are the bikes weight, yours and my weight, meaning, we are as equal as can be. The only difference is that you are going to take 300 more rpm is more guessing a number, where you have to more figure out the bike and your way of thinking how and where this bike signs off to get back to MAX.

In other words, if we were closed course and you shifted 300 rpms more, was not each shift an overrev? Say the other bike shifted sooner to that MAX... Who gained more feet if all things are equal, but the rpm and time was all on your wrist against someone's other wrist. Hope that was not too confusing as to setting up your overrev to get back to MAX as soon as possible. I'm trying to see that rpm point from a seat of the pants vs. the dyno number.

Yes, one more time. The seat with the diminishing returns and the HP change with someone else sitting on the dyno says; 'the max curve has moved' with you on it and in a different environment change. So, yes, that 9800 is the one number. Your seat of the pants (tape the tach over with something) so you have some sort of feel of the sign off. 200 rpm should be your base from 9800. If you found your 'sign-off' with the tape off the tach and it was 9700? Make sense you add 200 rpm and; "Feel WOT happens?" Maybe a total of 300 rpm was that 100 rpm added; was the sweet spot.

:dunno Somewhat make sense?
 
There you go. If I may. I think 10 is perfect. Here is why. The gear ratio is going to change and bring the rpm lower. So, the more you shift or say put it in overdrive, you want to override that ratio a few hundred rpm so you pop right back onto 9800rpm that is MAX HP range. Look at a dyno map and watch the peak line drop the more rpm you throw at it. So if the tune has combo K&N, you find the higher rpm might be 10,100 rpm or 10,200 rpm.

If say we have ideal conditions, all closed course loop is equal. You bang a red light at 10,300 say and I have a seat of the pants feel when the MAX signs off to it's diminishing returns @9800 all things being equal; are the bikes weight, yours and my weight, meaning, we are as equal as can be. The only difference is that you are going to take 300 more rpm is more guessing a number, where you have to more figure out the bike and your way of thinking how and where this bike signs off to get back to MAX.

In other words, if we were closed course and you shifted 300 rpms more, was not each shift an overrev? Say the other bike shifted sooner to that MAX... Who gained more feet if all things are equal, but the rpm and time was all on your wrist against someone's other wrist. Hope that was not too confusing as to setting up your overrev to get back to MAX as soon as possible. I'm trying to see that rpm point from a seat of the pants vs. the dyno number.

Yes, one more time. The seat with the diminishing returns and the HP change with someone else sitting on the dyno says; 'the max curve has moved' with you on it and in a different environment change. So, yes, that 9800 is the one number. Your seat of the pants (tape the tach over with something) so you have some sort of feel of the sign off. 200 rpm should be your base from 9800. If you found your 'sign-off' with the tape off the tach and it was 9700? Make sense you add 200 rpm and; "Feel WOT happens?" Maybe a total of 300 rpm was that 100 rpm added; was the sweet spot.

:dunno Somewhat make sense?

You can feel through the seat of your pants as soon as that max power/torque is achieved & time to shift, no need for a little flashing light, or do I just have a sensitive arse.
 

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