There you go. If I may. I think 10 is perfect. Here is why. The gear ratio is going to change and bring the rpm lower. So, the more you shift or say put it in overdrive, you want to override that ratio a few hundred rpm so you pop right back onto 9800rpm that is MAX HP range. Look at a dyno map and watch the peak line drop the more rpm you throw at it. So if the tune has combo K&N, you find the higher rpm might be 10,100 rpm or 10,200 rpm.
If say we have ideal conditions, all closed course loop is equal. You bang a red light at 10,300 say and I have a seat of the pants feel when the MAX signs off to it's diminishing returns @9800 all things being equal; are the bikes weight, yours and my weight, meaning, we are as equal as can be. The only difference is that you are going to take 300 more rpm is more guessing a number, where you have to more figure out the bike and your way of thinking how and where this bike signs off to get back to MAX.
In other words, if we were closed course and you shifted 300 rpms more, was not each shift an overrev? Say the other bike shifted sooner to that MAX... Who gained more feet if all things are equal, but the rpm and time was all on your wrist against someone's other wrist. Hope that was not too confusing as to setting up your overrev to get back to MAX as soon as possible. I'm trying to see that rpm point from a seat of the pants vs. the dyno number.
Yes, one more time. The seat with the diminishing returns and the HP change with someone else sitting on the dyno says; 'the max curve has moved' with you on it and in a different environment change. So, yes, that 9800 is the one number. Your seat of the pants (tape the tach over with something) so you have some sort of feel of the sign off. 200 rpm should be your base from 9800. If you found your 'sign-off' with the tape off the tach and it was 9700? Make sense you add 200 rpm and; "Feel WOT happens?" Maybe a total of 300 rpm was that 100 rpm added; was the sweet spot.
:dunno Somewhat make sense?