Rear shock replacement -Advice needed

Dog Tyred

Joined Oct 2009

106 Posts | 0+

Tamworth

Discussion Starter
• Jan 31, 2010

• #1

About to change my Sachs rear shock for an Ohlins on my 04

Having checked the manual it shows the shock being removed /inserted from above which means removing the fuel tank, etc.

Can it be done without removing the fuel tank, i.e. by sliding it in under the seat unit?

If not how easy is to remove the tank, break fuel lines, etc

DT

 

Alan Haskins

Joined Nov 2009

250 Posts | 0+

Surrey

• Jan 31, 2010

• #2

Not a clue, and I'm about to change my rear shock too, thanks to Butch.
All advice appreciated.

 

U

ukmatt

• Jan 31, 2010

• #3

go round to griffs i,m sure he would point you in the right direction
:thumbup

 

butch1276

Joined Aug 2008

636 Posts | 0+

salisbury

• Jan 31, 2010

• #4

guys ,a bit backroom workshop but i hoisted mine up off a beam in the garage and with a bit of up/down/up/down and got the bolts out top and bottom and the shock will come straight out of the hole/recess in the swing arm no problem ,the only drama i had was lining everything up for the new one ...up/down/up/up/up down etc lol also get a mate to hold one side tight to avoid spin or you'll be skinning knuckles and swearin like a err umm butch:devious ,get this right and its a ten minuite jobbie and bobs your gay auntie that used to err.... well anyway ......:thumbup oh an i never needed the tank off /fairing /rear panels either just the seat and pushed the load strap through and under the battery box

 

Last edited: Jan 31, 2010

butch1276

Joined Aug 2008

636 Posts | 0+

salisbury

• Jan 31, 2010

• #5

oh forgot to mention I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY IF IT GOES AWRY!!! I WILL CHANGE MY LOCKS ,MOVE HOUSE,LEAVE THE COUNTRY ETC ETC ,AND MY NAME IS NOT BUTCH ITS TARQUIN OF SLOVENIA AND I DONT UNDERSTAND YOUR LEGAAALS AN EEENGLEEEESH :devious

 

I

IanG

• Jan 31, 2010

• #6

I think when I did mine I started by passing a 12mm bar thru the swinging arm pivot tube and supported this on an axle stand each side,this gives working clearance and support.

As far as I can remember I then removed the rear most 2 dogbone bolts and swung them forwards out of the way,this left the shock dangling on it's top mount.To be honest I can't remember about undoing the top bolt so it must be easy,I may have removed the seat/side panel I just don't remember.

Anyway once removed just drop shock down and remove,replacement is just reverse the technique,and don't forget to inspect & liberally grease the bearings/dogbone bolts.

Hope this helps,it was a while ago I did mine.

Ian

 

Alan Haskins

Joined Nov 2009

250 Posts | 0+

Surrey

• Jan 31, 2010

• #7

Well perhaps it would be easier if I could undo the fcukin' bolts:banghead:banghead:banghead

Every nut and bolt on this bike is seized solid, I don't think it's ever had a proper service. Guess I'll just have to give 'em a good soaking and try again next week.

On a positive note, I've managed to release the bolts holding the rearsets on, so I can at least put the standard pegs back on.

 

I

IanG

• Jan 31, 2010

• #8

I think I was lucky there,the bike that I bought was a low mileage local that had been laid up in Spain unused for a few years until trailered back by the mate I bought it off.
It went through an Ape dealership ( useless) to get it running and for a service and from then on it was then looked after by an ex BSB kwacker mechanic.

Have to say I only took the thing apart so I could check it was ok but fair does to the guy,everything was incredibly clean,lubricated,and as good as could be,even the brown connector although still there was as good as it left the factory.

 

R

Rich

• Jan 31, 2010

• #9

When I did the shock on my 2000, I put it on the side stand got a strip of wood and bolted it between the r/h paddock stand hole on the swingarm and one of the r/h frame footrest mounts. This basically locks the suspension in the unladen position and takes the load off the shock so you can easily remove and refit it :thumbup Easiest to loosen and refit the linkage nuts while the bike is on it's wheels though as the weight tends to stop the bolts from turning.

 

Dog Tyred

Joined Oct 2009

106 Posts | 0+

Tamworth

Discussion Starter
• Jan 31, 2010

• #10

Update. No, you don't have to remove the tank to remove the shock.

With the wheel and linkage removed (blimey those linkage bolts were tight) the swing arm can drop far enough to allow the shock to be slid out upwards. New shock goes in the same way :thumbup

thanks for the replies chaps

DT

 

butch1276

Joined Aug 2008

636 Posts | 0+

salisbury

• Jan 31, 2010

• #11

Dog Tyred said:

Update. No, you don't have to remove the tank to remove the shock.

With the wheel and linkage removed (blimey those linkage bolts were tight) the swing arm can drop far enough to allow the shock to be slid out upwards. New shock goes in the same way :thumbup

thanks for the replies chaps

DT

Click to expand...

let me know how you get on with the ohlins mate ive done the same and im gagging to give it a work out ,what setting have you got it on :thumbup

 

D

Dolenc

• Jan 31, 2010

• #12

It looks like you didnt take the advice from the dude who is from slovenia