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Rear brake service bulletin

B

Badger

I had this bulletin sitting and thought i should scan it and post it on here as it may come in useful with brake bleeding and adjustment of the pushrod to give enough clearance as a few seem to be having bother with rear brakes binding on and coming to a grinding halt, follow the procedure and your problems should be solved:thumbup

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Cheers really helpfull. I've just got rid of my gilles and the back brake feels perfect without me bleeding it. It moves about an inch and feels like it doing something, unlike ever before. So i reckon it must be buggered somehow. Ill try bleeding it untill it feels completely ***** and does nothing. :)
 
Badger,

Thanks for the detailed posting on bleeding the rear brake. A buddy of mine helped with mine a couple of weeks ago using a method close to your posting. The break has never worked that good before. I am going to print off a copy and keep it with my service records for reference. Cheers.

Nix2speed
 
Nice stuff Badger:thumbup, now people can find that aprilia rear brakes do work when set up properly!:biggrin
 
I did that before yes it works however I wanna be able to skid my rear tireat freeway speeds. (70-80 mph) well it's not that I will be stunting eventhough the brake feels good at low speeds(30 mph) after servicing it i wasn't please much at high speeds it just doesn't feel right at all. did i need to work on getting the air out more? is it possible to make the rear brake very stiff at high speeds? thanks
 
I tried all suggested methods, even the one above but I just had a nightmare and the rear brake was having none of it. I was on the verge of rebuilding the calipers and bleeding it on a bench until I gave the Mityvac a go. Strangely enough, that did the trick and the rear has been good since. So I will personally be sticking to using the vacuum bleeder, it was somuch bloody easier.
 
Valendino said:
... now people can find that aprilia rear brakes do work when set up properly!:biggrin
Click to expand...

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BWAAHAAAAAA HAAAAA HAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!! HAAAAA!!
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Stop...seriously.....I can't take any more....:lol
 
The best way to make the rear brake work with standard rear sets is to fit the master cylinder off a Aprilia Shiver 750 :thumbup
 
How come on page 2 it tells you to use dot4? it says dot5 in owners manual , so which is right? ps i used dot5 in the clutch and i know it goes black after a while [oberon slave fitted] the fluid [dot5 ] hadnt been in long and i dont know if it was because the bike had been stood all night [about freezing] but the fluid in the master cyl seemed to be a bit gooey looking ie not liquid as it should be, is it because i havent paid a fortune for the fluid? i would have thought it had to all be to certain standards. cheers in advance Big Jess
 
Thanks, this is a real find. Mine has been giving me problems for ages, recently fitted a set of Gilles, solved problem the for about a day and now I have no brake at all.
 
Nope, piece of piss to do, just make sure to adjust the plunger arm properly.

RSVR028.jpg


And this is a good way to hold the rear caliper for bleeding if your billy no mates :biggrin

RSVR027.jpg
 
nikfubar said:
Nope, piece of piss to do, just make sure to adjust the plunger arm properly.



And this is a good way to hold the rear caliper for bleeding if your billy no mates :biggrin
Click to expand...

Do you have to have the champagne bottle and the toothbrush. lol

Seriously though why is this m/c better than the original? Anyone know?

Rob :)
 
Not sure :confused think it may be a larger bore M/C, it has a larger reservoir & feed hose aswell. The guy who owns the local Aprilia dealership told me he does this as a standard upgrade to all the second hand bikes that come in before he sells them on.
 
I see yours is on Gen 1 RSV, I assume this will work on a Gen 2. Also, is the Mana and Dorsoduro M/C the same as the Shiver?
 
Was reading on another site, that if you hang a weight off it when parked up,
Gets it working again,, tryed it, and it works, now when I lock it away I just make sure the lever is pressed down fully in some way, works great ever since,
 
Last edited:
Yeah that's suggested in another post somewhere to hang a 5L can of paint on the brake lever, brings it back to life as it lets trapped air bleed out to the reservoir, same as the old trick of zip tieing your front brake lever back to the bars :thumbup
 
I've an 09 Mille R & spent most of the afternoon trying to bleed my rear brake with the caliper suspended high, & the result after passing near a full litre bottle of fluid through is the brake has no pressue at all.
I can pump the pistons out but as soon as any bite pressure is needed there's no pressure to be felt - the lever just bottoms out.

Been an 09 should I assume it has the correct parts or do I need to bore out the 45 degree elbow on top of the master cylinder & reservoir outlet to 4.5mm & increase the hose? Must admit, it does look like the hole in the bottom of the reservoir is only 3mm.
 
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