re my rsvr factory 04 cutting out

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Joined
May 29, 2016
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11
Location
thetford
does anyone know exactly which or where the relay is for the cooling fans, have swopped them around at the front left and right side and made no difference also, at what temperature the cooling fans should cut in, being static, I have seen +90c and they have not cut in!
cheers,
tim.
 
Any error codes? Could be a the fan motor that is the culprit. I believe its 95C before the fan starts running.
 
hi and thanks for the reply, the problem has moved on a bit since I posted about it. I have checked and changed all the relays no problem there, over rode the fan relay, fans run ok. I have her on paddock stands at the moment, I ran her up again the other day and noted the following, your right, the fans did cut in and out at 95c and she kept running ok until suddenly cutting out!... press the starter, it turns over, but no spark it seemed, the red triangle and the erf sign was lit up, went for the fault code it read "0" this has always been the reading when checking for a fault code, this time though, when the engine cut out, the fans were running, and continued to run until the temperature came down so, i think that clears any problem on the cooling side also, I know there is a thermistor in the ECU, so if the problem was there, I don't think the fans would be cutting in and out!.. also while doing this run up, I kept my hand on the ECU, and felt no heat at all!... I have noted now that there is no time difference to the problem wither its running on the road or on paddock stands in the garage, let her cool down a little, say about 60c showing, and she will start again straight away! now during all this testing I had noticed that the battery had felt warm! its always connected to an battery support ( optimate 3) now when I first started her up after the winter layup with this connected, it had a smile face meaning, battery was good now, all I see is when I connect this up, it shows charging- ok but next day it shows a sad face and the battery is warm. so I I switched optimate's still the same result, so connected a slow battery charger up for 48hrs. still showing a trickle charge! and battery was warm, re connected optimate, showed charging but next day the sad face was there AGAIN so, I am thinking now that there is something wrong with the battery or there is a short somewhere but, if it is a short, then why is it time / temperature related?
regards,
Tim with a sad miss Millie!
 
Have you tracked the battery voltage during these test runs on the paddock stand? Wondering if the cut outs are related to low battery voltage due to a short within the battery.
 
hi and thanks for the reply, I did think along these lines, I have tracked the voltage on the dash, at 4000rpm I have seen 14.5vlts, (I understand that 15vlts is the max) but then drop down to around 12 - 13vlts.AH! but that's voltage coming from the alternator / regulator? my query here is that there is enough in the battery to keep the lights powered up and turn the engine over when she cuts out?
 
I think you have an electrical issue somewhere, the temperature thing is just confusing matters and sending you down a wrong path, best place to start would be to download the electrical diagrams from the AF1 racing website and check things like the kill switch/side stand switch/ignition connectors/generator etc, even if you don't understand electrical diagrams it will help you find the connectors to look at by wire colours for any issues, these bikes along with a lot of others now are renowned for poor connections as they all seem to use cheap connectors.
 
hi and thanks for the reply, I do have the wiring diagram and have checked the side stand and kill switch, checked relays and fans all ok, never seen any thing above 15vlts so I think the regulator is ok my thinking at the moment is that there is a short happening when the bike gets up to running temperature and the time it takes to cut out is almost identical every time!... also its really strange now that the optimate is showing the sad face! charged the battery for 48hrs on slow charge, connected optimate, showed it was charging, next day, sad face?
 
yeah I can see why you would think its a temperature issue with what you have seen up to now, but as an example fuel starvation can cause the same thing and always run out about the same time, best way to check the optimal is on another battery or to buy another, although it is always good to have a spare as these beasts are sore on them, out of interest is it a gel battery or light weight lithium one? there is also a tilt switch under the seat which may be worth looking at and i think from memory the clutch has a switch on it to by the lever, as said earlier the fans come on at 95 ish and you have proved they work. the main 2 things for the bike cutting out usually are fuel and ignition/spark. it may be worth checking the fuel pump and filter for any debris or burst pipes inside the tank while you are at it, regulator/generator as you say with the bike running should be about 1.5 volts above normal for a good charging system imo, and battery about 12.5volts when the bike is off. I don't have a gen2 bike but what did it exactly show on the dash when it cut out and does it show the same each time, I'm not sure what erf is as i can't seem to find anything relating to this on an aprilia search, chin up you will find it eventually, nothing worse if it is electrical trying to trace the bugger down lol
 
hi and yes, have had 2 optimate's on it and the results were the same!.. just wondering what could be pulling so much current as the only thing that's on, is the immobilising system, I do have a power commander on it but again, not active until the ignition it switched on! as for the battery I know its a Bosh think its an M6. not sure what type that is though, just as she cuts out, the warning triangle along with the erf comes up on the dash, and is there until she cools down. yes have checked the tilt switch and is ok, as for the fault code, I only ever get "0" cant find anything for 0!
 
Hi Tim, yeah thats a gel battery so should be fine with the charger, lithium ion ones are a funny with certain chargers. so I would say its either went duff or as you say an issue somewhere, if you disconnect the battery from the bike and then connect the optimate does it do the same, if so the battery is duff, as I've said these bikes are savage on batterys and they don't last. out of interest what size is the battery part number will read something like YTX12 or YTZ14 or 0092M60180? the power commander won't be the issue i don't think these switch off unless the bike is running as you've said, the immobiliser might be an issue though, is it one of the ones that is soldered into the harness or can it be easily unplugged?

Also meant to say how do you get in to the fault codes on these gen2 bikes, is it by pressing the lap/pass button and holding for up to 15secs while you switch the key on?
 
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hi, and yes, hold the lap button in then switch on ignition, keep holding the lap button for 15 sec's. I did change this battery before I can remember somebody saying that if its disconnected for a certain time, you can loose the memory in the dash, resets to default km etc., and loose the mileage reading. cant remember the battery part No but I bought it from an aprillia dealer.think I will have to bite the bullet anyway and get a new battery, just did not want to bugger that up as well.
 
Yeah first step is get it changed and go from there, not sure with the gen2 battery's but think a 12amp is standard size, if replacing I'd go for a 14amp one, I'm sure I've read that these slot in and will give you more life 12amp seems to be slightly undersized especially with immobilisers and the likes. I'm sure someone will confirm but have a search over on rsvr.net I'm sure that's where I've seen it, fingers crossed it solves your issues straight away.
 
hi and thanks for the battery tip, but had got one from Halfords before I saw your tip!. New one has been on slow charge over night so fingers x tonight!!!
like the colour scheme / paint job, done locally?? I had that model Millie that you have and those cans sound awesome!!
 
Fingers crossed to mate, yeah it is unusual and was well done, a paint company in Livingstone I think, exhausts did sound really good, I've sold all the fairings and exhaust system, I just recently bought it and turning it into a race bike hopefully get out on it at the end of the year, can't wait ��
 
hi Quinn, no, no different, same thing as before, but optimate did have a happy face this morning, on thing I did notice was that before, I would have to wait until the temperature had dropped to around the low sixties before the warning went off, and she would start, last night, she would not fire up at sixty!, tried again this morning, (cold) fired up straight away!! I think I will see if I can get a plug cap off when she has cut out to see if there is a spark still there?... found the workshop manual on the net, all 300 pages of it.. your models' available as well.. some useful tips and tricks in it.
 
Not good then, only things I can think of to check is the fuel pump and filter for any debris or burst pipes inside the tank and disconnect the power commander. If there's nothing wrong with these then its a garage job I'm afraid, there's a lad called Griff over on the rsvr.net forum, might be worth heading over there to see what he thinks he runs aprilia performance I think, good luck mate, hope you get it sorted
 
morning Quinn and yes ok will do anyway, thanks for all your help, much appreciated and will let you know the outcome!!
 
strange, new battery fitted, ran her up, cut out as usual, optimate on over the weekend, Monday morning, sad face on optimate?
 

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