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J

joesnell

Joined
Jun 17, 2009
Messages
27
Location
Seattle, Washington
I just traded in my Shiver and now have a new 2007.5 Tuono.

After scanning this forum I have seen people mention a problem with the rear brakes. Can someone let me know what the exact problem is? I would like to preemptively take measures to deal with this if I can.

It appears that gauge fogging/cracking isn't that uncommon. Are there any other "issues" I should be aware of?

BTW - the Shiver was nice, the new bike is great.

Thanks,

Joe (Seattle, Washington)
 
Hi Joe,

Welcome to you.

I also have a 2007 Tuono R and my guages were misting up at the bottom right hand corner and i followed this link http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138255&a mp;highlight=misting+clocks and carried out this modification. It didnt work the first time but maybe i rushed it too much, anyway second time it seems fine. This time i took a hairdryer to it whilst in bits for a while, then made sure i used lots of sealent to put it back together. So far there has been no more misting (touch wood)

See this link http://www.tuonozone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1044

Sorry cant comment on the rear brakes this is a new one on me but i am sure someone will come along with some words of wisdom

Cheers
Mark
 
It appears that the rear brake is not as good as you would expect it to be.The rear brake will not stop you , should it ???. The front is well up to scratch . The front IS the stopper . It should be around 70/80 percent front and 20 percent rear brake usage to stop.
My rear brake is fine ,every now and then I press hard on rear to clear the glaze ie. clear road ,bit of speed and use just rear brake only as emergency stop.
 
brake advice

If anyone has any advice regarding rear brake I would like to hear it too thanks!

I went on holiday for 3 weeks, then came home to a soggy back brake.

Hell, it wasn't that great to begin with, but now it hits bottom and can't even hold me on a hill. I have been riding the same without it (who needs that back brake anyway) but those hill starts can be a little tricky without it.

The fluid looks fine. Can't see any bubbles. Frozen piston would not cause soggy pedal (i think?) and all I can think is somehow air in line, or shagged master cylinder. Pumping it has absolutely no effect. Just grabs a little and no more. :dunno

ANy clues? I think I'll whip the caliper off this weekend and check the pads and give it a bit of a clean, then bleed and see what happens.
 
ok..the normal issues on the GenII T are:

fogging clocks (there is NO known cure)...Tuonoapes fix on AF1 as per the above link comes pretty close...but it 's not a fix..the clock's lens is also very brittle an has a tendancy to crack...

rear brake...again no know guaranteed fix...see Kzmilles post on AF1...it's the closest you'll get to removing all the air...trouble is, air finds it's way back into the system...some have good results hanging a weight (a 5litre paint tin) on the pedal and leaving overnight...

hose clamps...they're crap...and will weep....swap out for 8mm stainless screw up jubilees...job done...

the dreaded "brown connector" some have one...some have two..(to be found in the yellow wiring between the alternator and the rectifier)...pack with electrolytic grease...and check every 3000mile to be safe...if it IS overheating & starting to cook...it's an easy fix.

rear suspension link plates...have been known to fail, although this is REALLY rare...if you're concerned swap out with AF1 aftermarket jobbies...
 
Tifa said:
ok..the normal issues on the GenII T are:

fogging clocks (there is NO known cure)...Tuonoapes fix on AF1 as per the above link comes pretty close...but it 's not a fix..the clock's lens is also very brittle an has a tendancy to crack...

rear brake...again no know guaranteed fix...see Kzmilles post on AF1...it's the closest you'll get to removing all the air...trouble is, air finds it's way back into the system...some have good results hanging a weight (a 5litre paint tin) on the pedal and leaving overnight...

hose clamps...they're crap...and will weep....swap out for 8mm stainless screw up jubilees...job done...

the dreaded "brown connector" some have one...some have two..(to be found in the yellow wiring between the alternator and the rectifier)...pack with electrolytic grease...and check every 3000mile to be safe...if it IS overheating & starting to cook...it's an easy fix.

rear suspension link plates...have been known to fail, although this is REALLY rare...if you're concerned swap out with AF1 aftermarket jobbies...
Click to expand...


Ferkin brilliant summary Tifa.:thumbup
This answer should be made a sticky in an FAQ section. No ifs or buts. It says it all.:megaphone

FWIW: I use the 'paint tin' remedy every so often, and have a good, strong rear brake pedal, if a little wooden in feel. Plus I have swapped out the shock link plates as a cheap insurance policy.
 
Awesome.

Cheers big ears!

Paint tin it is then. Worth a crack.

Is it a coincidence that paint is just "pain with a T"?

Anyway, rear brake not much use when the wheel is in the air...
 
or swop for some nice aprilia performance rearsets with move the slave cylinder and are fully adjustable to boot, look sexy as hell and all for £200 .

While your spending money put a hooked airbox on , he`s on this site. Well trick , better mid range and low end grunt and sound amazing, reckon it would suck a badger off no probs :crazy
 
Oooooh

I liiike trick bits. :drool

Especially if they make the bike growl:yumyum

Is this through AF1??? What have you got?
Cheers!:cheers
 
RSV Zone matey, i dont have anything, its all on my bike, i have acculign rearsets (looking to swop for aprilia performance ones) , pc3, with custom map, 57mm tb, jet40, mpl slave, led rear lights, uprated solenoid and ytx14 battery, renegade ex, renegade air box, inforad camera detector, some special paint. plenty of carbon too

Rearsets - Fusebox supplies them through aprilia performance or on RSVZone

Airbox - Hooked supplies them through RSVZone although i see he has joined here too, they are proper loud, i love em.

I believe both ship out to NZ but you will have to check with them

Spending money on the bike is addictive dude :thumbup
 
"]The only cure for the back brake is to move/replace the resevoir away from the exhaust and engine as the fluid gets cooked and bleeding together with fluid replacement very regularly is a help. Contact Fusebox on RSV Zone or ClubAprilia he is the dude.
 
Awesome

Aha. Sounds sensible.

Blow me down with a feather - I tried the paint tin trick last night (actually it was a propane cylinder, but I figured that part wasn't too crucial).

Back brake went from about 5% back up to 100% of what it was before !!!

Un-f*&#ing-believable. :fingerlol

How on gods clean earth did it do that?:dunno

Sorry - but at moments like this blasphemy is the only response. Didn't even have to bleed the sucker. What a great tip. Now to stop it happening again - move the resevoir... Cheers everyone.:cheers
 

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