This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

PCIIIUSB Question

Joined Jan 2008
21 Posts | 0+
Hampshire, UK
Hi all

Am thinking of getting a Power Commander for my RSV, but on the website it says "O2 Controller is NOT included. ECU must be set to "Race Mode" using the dealer "Axione" tool if the Oxygen Sensor Controller is not used."

Question is, how do I know whether my ECU is set to "Race Mode" or not? Is this something I can do myself or do I have to get a dealer to check it?
 
nope you need to get it on a dealer axone, the plug is under the rider seat and it takes 5 mins for him to do, this puts the Lambda sensor in open relay (in other words it stops monitoring O2 emmisions and adjusting ecu accordingly)
then you'll need an exact map to run properly on your machine as you've taken out one of the main things for optimising O2 and fuel mixture control

this is normal and a few on here have done it with successful stories

the main question would be "why are you doing it?" the difference isnt that much and the cost is quite expensive
£250 PCIII
£150 custom map
 
To be fair it did smooth out my ride quite a bit, I would question the cost is justified though.

There speaks the man who has just bought a brand new set of showa forks and some OZ wheels LOL
 
nope you need to get it on a dealer axone, the plug is under the rider seat and it takes 5 mins for him to do, this puts the Lambda sensor in open relay (in other words it stops monitoring O2 emmisions and adjusting ecu accordingly)
then you'll need an exact map to run properly on your machine as you've taken out one of the main things for optimising O2 and fuel mixture control

this is normal and a few on here have done it with successful stories

the main question would be "why are you doing it?" the difference isnt that much and the cost is quite expensive
£250 PCIII
£150 custom map

Reason I would want to do it? Well I would hope that the end result is the same as I had on my R6. Much smoother, MUCH better part throttle response, better more controllable lower end delivery, better fuel consumption. Dont really care about top end gains. I have just returned from a week in Lake Garda (Italy), and it proved that the throttle is quite snatchy at part throttle settings, and when you are half way round a 180deg bend in 1stgear and the throttle comes in with a bang, it gets a bit lively. My previous experience with PCIII's smoothed this type of response out.
 
most people find lowering front gearing by 1 tooth helps with this (including me)

as the Ape is very pully in first......

each to there own and if you've gott he cash - why not????

dont suppose you want some nice akra titanium cans to go with that setup if you're feeling flush
 
most people find lowering front gearing by 1 tooth helps with this (including me)

as the Ape is very pully in first......

each to there own and if you've gott he cash - why not????

dont suppose you want some nice akra titanium cans to go with that setup if you're feeling flush

Yup, already have dropped the front sprocket by 1 tooth, and already have some nice carbon Akras!
 
Make sure you take all of the free play that you can do safely out of the throttle as they tend to come with quite a bit of slack giving a dead zone.

The snatching has a lot to do with how the throttle sync is set.

Believe it or not the Aprilia specs especially for pre 04 bikes are *****. Just ask Sabre. They are more about emissions than rideability.

I have played with my bike and Sabres quite a bit as i have a Gas analyser and have got the throttle response pretty smooth.
Most dealers tend to run the rear cylinder a bit richer which reduces the running temp by a degree or 2 but it hampers the smoothness somewhat.

Since doing mine i am also getting 20 miles more to a tank.

A Pc3 will always be better overall because you can customise the whole rev range to accomdate aftermarket parts. The co trimmers will only do idle to 1/3rd throttle on a standard bike but you do ride in that range quite a bit.
It comes down to whether for you the cost is justified i guess.

The dynojet co controller is for full race systems that make no provision for a Lambda sensor or for people wanting to run a pc3 with map1 (very few i would imagine).
Although on variant 2 the Lamda is ignored it is still part of the diagnostics checks and the ecu still reads from it as can be confirmed by an Axone. It just doesn't use it's reading to correct the fuelling hence why the co trimmers are so important.
The dynojet part will fool the ecu into thinking a lambda is present so you can ditch the original should you need to.
 

New Posts