i'm sure i've seen one somewhere but been trying to find an oil change guide but I can't! could also do with recommendations for oil and also some good spark plugs n where to get them!
cheers guys!
cheers guys!
Joined Aug 2009
21 Posts | 0+
Norwich, UK
Changing Oil -
The first drain plug is easy to find at the bottom of the oil tank on the right side. It is a hex-cap bolt with a 10 mm head. Remove the bolt and let the oil drain. The owner's manual says to retorque the bolt to 15 N-m (11 ft-lbs, 133 in-lbs).
The second drain plug is located on the kickstand side of the engine. It is a socket cap plug. The plug is magnetic, and should be cleaned before reinstalling it. Tighten the plug to 12 N-m (9 ft-lbs, or 106 in-lbs).
Behind the oil filter cover is a paper filter element. Remove the two socket cap screws. The filter fill be pressed into the cover. Pry it loose (noting the orientation) and press on another another filter. The o-ring on the cover can be reused. Tighten the two cover screws just firmly.
There is a filter screen in the bottom of the oil tank that is supposed to be cleaned every other oil change. A good time to clean it is when you have the recalled hose replaced, because to service the filter you are supposed to remove the lower hose clamp on the oil tank. Make sure you have an extra hose clamp on hand before removing one of the "clic" clamps. After removing the hose, unscrew the tank filter and clean it with compressed air. Replace the filter and tighten it to 30 N-m (22 ft-lbs).
If you fill with cold oil level to the horizontal fin on the engine cover when on the side stand, the level will rise to nearly the MAX line when hot. Start with 3-1/2 litres, idle the engine for a minute, then you will need to top it off. The owner's manual recommends checking the oil level with the engine hot (15-20 minutes riding), turned off, and held level.
Oil - I've always used Mobil 1 in everything bike I've had and the love it.:thumbup
As for spark plugs I recommend http://www.carsparkplugs.com
I helped set up this guys site when I worked for for him and you will be hard pushed to find cheaper plugs, if he doesn't have what you want listed send him a email and he normally can get anything:cool2. Most places will recommend Denso IXU27 but I would go with IXU24 if you have done any mods to your engine, chip, air box or exhaust.
Hope this helps iank :whoop
The first drain plug is easy to find at the bottom of the oil tank on the right side. It is a hex-cap bolt with a 10 mm head. Remove the bolt and let the oil drain. The owner's manual says to retorque the bolt to 15 N-m (11 ft-lbs, 133 in-lbs).
The second drain plug is located on the kickstand side of the engine. It is a socket cap plug. The plug is magnetic, and should be cleaned before reinstalling it. Tighten the plug to 12 N-m (9 ft-lbs, or 106 in-lbs).
Behind the oil filter cover is a paper filter element. Remove the two socket cap screws. The filter fill be pressed into the cover. Pry it loose (noting the orientation) and press on another another filter. The o-ring on the cover can be reused. Tighten the two cover screws just firmly.
There is a filter screen in the bottom of the oil tank that is supposed to be cleaned every other oil change. A good time to clean it is when you have the recalled hose replaced, because to service the filter you are supposed to remove the lower hose clamp on the oil tank. Make sure you have an extra hose clamp on hand before removing one of the "clic" clamps. After removing the hose, unscrew the tank filter and clean it with compressed air. Replace the filter and tighten it to 30 N-m (22 ft-lbs).
If you fill with cold oil level to the horizontal fin on the engine cover when on the side stand, the level will rise to nearly the MAX line when hot. Start with 3-1/2 litres, idle the engine for a minute, then you will need to top it off. The owner's manual recommends checking the oil level with the engine hot (15-20 minutes riding), turned off, and held level.
Oil - I've always used Mobil 1 in everything bike I've had and the love it.:thumbup
As for spark plugs I recommend http://www.carsparkplugs.com
I helped set up this guys site when I worked for for him and you will be hard pushed to find cheaper plugs, if he doesn't have what you want listed send him a email and he normally can get anything:cool2. Most places will recommend Denso IXU27 but I would go with IXU24 if you have done any mods to your engine, chip, air box or exhaust.
Hope this helps iank :whoop
Thats' a great little write up from v60boy, however changing to a fully synthetic oil can cause clutch slip on these bikes. It's not set in stone, but in can happen, so be aware of this if you decide to use it
15w50 semi synthetic oil is what is recommended by Aprilia and is more than adequate for all road riding conditions.
Here's another link with pictures
http://www.geocities.com/sl_mille/oil.html
15w50 semi synthetic oil is what is recommended by Aprilia and is more than adequate for all road riding conditions.
Here's another link with pictures
http://www.geocities.com/sl_mille/oil.html
and Southern Cross, who are an ex Aprilia dealer and now Rotax service centre always put in 10w/40 Motul oil.
Joined Jul 2009
612 Posts | 0+
Gosport-Hampshire
Does anyone ever drain the oil cooler when doing an oil change? On my '07.5 both lines come from the top of the cooler, so it seems like you need to disconnect the little tube joining them to completely drain everything.
