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nearly a really bad day

Joined Oct 2007
681 Posts | 0+
cumbria
ok asyou all prob know by i've had my fair share of problems with this 04 factory
well i have more
went for a nice run with the missus on back today - no problems, don't give it the berries as she doesn't like it, but still made 107mph nice nad gradual like.

then decided to go and blow out some cobwebs, had 2 moments, the third was definately not in my "recovering from accident" head, bike slid to the side on a right hander. pulled over to look at rear tyre, went to set off
NOWT
can hear the starter mtoar ticking, but electrics cut out, and nothing. rev limiter has been reset indicating battery removal or loss of power or short

waved down 2 fine lads on IL4's and they gave me a bump start, got home

still wont start, new battery put in 3 days ago showing 11.7v How is that possible after a long run (2hrs) and then on a blast

so start stripping her down to
A find oil that must be going on rear tyre
B try to fix starting problems i've had for a while

Remove air filter housing - full of oil, obviously i've put too much in! whats the clean out procedure anybody please?

Any suggestions on starting issues? tried new battery, all connectors are secure, relays not burnt out, starter is clicking, clutch is making a ****** noise battery keeps being drained, running battery voltage is 13.5v

now another thing, i don't oil my chain, i clean it every other day with wd40 and remove excess fluid, so why does y chain have wet shiny oil on it at the end of a ride?

i really need to find these answers and fix them with as little cost as possible or she's going up for sale

does anyone know how to clean a tyre of what could be soaked inoil splats, causing loss of adhesion.

want to say thanks to the 2 lads who stopped and helped, t spoonz for sending me the clutch sc and to all you guys on here who are going to help with this, cos if this can't be sorted then i'm off back to the dark side of IL4
 
Maybe the new batt is duff. I've had new batts before that have died in days.

If you have good charge voltage and yet the batt isn't charging then something doesn't add up. Either the batt is suspect or you have something pulling it down, like a duff starter solenoid. or bad connections on the batt.

Regard the chain the airbox drain is on the same side so the same oil that spalshed onto your tyre may be spashing onto the chain as well. Some lube will also migrate into the links and be forced out again as it spins at speed.
 
I would check your brown connectors.....i bypassed them by soldering the wires together....AS THEY CAN MELT due to high resistance caused by oxidation on the wire....also the white connector under the pillion seat i put solder on the crimps where the wire goes in..........this made a BIG difference to the charging voltage on my 04.....:thumbup

Use Chain lube instead of WD40....its thicker and will not fling off as easy as WD40
 
the purpose is i don't like chain lube, its been proven that the centrifugal forces throw off more than 90% of chain lube in the first 10mins, i've run bikes for nearly 20yrs and done the same wi no adverse affect.
i require
the instructions for clearing out air filter etc afer too much oil in
clean rear wheel
improve ngine starting characteristics
stop me spending money
 
If the filter element has oil on it and it's the standard paper type then that is toast.

Wipe out excess oil with a rag or similar but be careful not to drop anything into the throttle bodies.

Then make sure you check your oil level with the engine running after a ride so you don't overfill it. It's dry sump so you can't check it cold like a jap 4.

regards starting if your sure your batt is ok (i would get it tested) then next stop starter solenoid.

Regards the chain use Castrol chain wax or similar. It turns to a dry film in 10 mins with almost zero fling.
 
Regards the chain use Castrol chain wax or similar. It turns to a dry film in 10 mins with almost zero fling.

WD will effect the o-ring seals on yer chain . . it will wash out & wear far quicker than if using a good chain lube/wax as Spoonz says. When ya lube up, do it 15-20mins before ya hit the frog n toad..this should minimize fling & give that chain what it needs.

Have you chked the battery voltage under load? If you got a clamp meter, you can chk the Amps drawn while starting. The battery may have a dodgy cell, or dropping one under load. You are getting a charge voltage back to the battery?
The soldering & insulating of high resistant joints is a damn fine idea... i like that one.:eatcorn

And the too much oil in the bucket trick, coz filled cold..well i think we all fell for that one after owning a wet sump jap. Live n learn eh.

Again Spoonz, thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge mate, greatly appreciated top bloke.:thumbup
 
thanks everyone
busy day for me today then

any final ideas on cleaning rear tyre as well, or replace????
 
Sorry to hear your having a bad run of luck with the bike m8 but hang in their because these little problems can all be sorted.
Your charging problem does sound like a connector and is known to be a issue so i would be following the others on soldering the wires and then take a reading with a multi meter and not the dash display. clicky for CONNECTOR thread
I have tried every chain lube their is and now only use WURTH DRY, you dont even notice its on and i use a little and often :thumbup
As for your rear tyre i would try and get a rag with some unleaded petrol and rub like mad and see how much oil you can remove. Go for a gental ride and it should be fine once some road dirt has got on it.

Dont get too down hearted with the RSV, i did 18k miles on a Duc 748 without a problem :confused then p/x it for a R1 and that chewed its gearbox at 15k miles :rant

Good luck with the bike.
 
clean the tire off as much as you can....a few miles should wear off the spots affected i'm assuming. ride careful though.

-:banana
 
i will second what has been said about chain lube. been a avid user of scotoilers for the last 12 years, not any more. Wurth dry chain lube from now on. apply it when you get back from a ride, not before. applying it to a warm chain is must better than to a cold chain, zero fling i am well impressed:thumbup by it.
 
ok stripped the bike after a test start this morning, noisy but she started

then went on to clean airbox out etc and drop a little oil out.
during my fettling, i have noticed that this bike must of had some sort of alarm on it as the 2 wires that feed the connector to the soleniod under pillion seat were chopped and tied together and wrapped in insulation tape.

i chopped it off and used a proper electrical connector, tested and started again, noisy but fired up.

assembled bike ready for 20min run to check oil level.
bike wont start exact same as yesterday, removed battery and put on multimeter 12.5v

what the F**K is going on????????

gonna remove ride side fairing to check relay in a minute, after that its down to garage for him to charge me a fortune

is there a test of the solenoid i can do?

it seems as though somet is pulling the power off the battery during fire up
 
i think i've sorted it
the solenoid (starter relay) has nuts to hold the relay wires and copper nuts under them. these were loose, also i put the old battery back on and no clunking or noise or noting, just fires up.
i dropped about a pint of oil out and now after a 20 min run at national speed limit, when checked the level is about 10mm of max.
so there was defo too much oil in

checked rear tyre and all seems ok now, no splats of oil on wheel or underseat.

will keep an eye on it this week, if all ok then change the clutch sc next weekend as that is definately leaking

thanks everyone for the advice again
 
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