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Modification - Clutch Slave Cylinder

Joined Oct 2008
9 Posts | 0+
Just a bit of advice guys...
Has anyone fitted/tried one of the aftermarket CNC hydraulic clutch slave units @£90 from Germany?
Supposed to be more efficient and better quality than the standard unit which is prone to leaking/weaping (which mine is already...bugger!!)
BHT
 
Ya might not end up with dark coloured clutch fluid now, not like the rest of us.
Let us know which one you get, and how easy the transplant is Thor.
 
be paitent chaps .... My bike is due down to Oberon engineering in the winter for them to use as donor bike fer varios sparkley bits, the slave cyinder being the first bit to be done.
 
I bought a red MPL but I'm not to sure how to install it and clean out the old black fluid and bleed the system. If someone has an ***** guide I'd be very thankful.
 
The MPL slave cylinders are a piece of cake to fit. I have fitted them on both our bikes, and they definitely reduce the amount of effort required on the clutch. A mate (Windy over on AF1) has the Evo version, and it is not quite as good as the MPL.

It really is a simple case of replacing one unit with the other. Once the hydraulics are re-connected use a clamp over the slave cylinder to stop the inner piston moving, and you can flush all the fluid through from the master cylinder. Once you are happy it is properly bled, you can bolt it in place, pump the clutch lever a couple of times to let it engage, top up your fluid if required and Robert is your mother's brother.

However.

your fluid still turns black - it's the O-rings apparently.
 
Yea... but the bloody fluid goes black in the master cylinder even when they are new,!!! :lol
 
Just bought one of those MPL units...when it arrives and I get chance to fit it I will let you know how it performs.
Think Im guna bleed it with old engine oil so its black from the start....doh!!
BHT
 
That's great Thor. I have the same MPL. And if you would be so kind as to give me an ***** guide so I can install mine I would be in your debt. And I don't have a clue as to how to bleed it. I know it's supposed to be simple if you get a syringe and tubing but what kind of syringe, and what kind/size of tubing attached to what? Then what do I pump fluid into? I'm good at following directions, it's just that I don't have any to follow. Pictures would help too. Sorry to be such an ***** at the concept. )^: I always had my mechanic do everything in the past, but times/finances have changed and I must learn to turn my own wrenches from now on.
 
Guys.

Fitting an MPL slave cylinder is a piece of cake. The only tools you need are a spanner to fit the hydraulic fittings, & bleed nipple, and a hex key for the slave cylinder.

1. loosen allen bolts holding original slave cylinder in place.
2. undo banjo bolt/bleed from top of slave.
3. fix bolt into MPL cylinder using new washers supplied by MPL
4. Remove old slave & put in a safe place (to swap back when you sell it)

Choice time.

Either

Nip up the banjo, and using a clamp to stop the inner piston flying out, bleed the new slave cylinder before fixing it to the casing - this allows you to rotate it to ensure ALL the air comes out.

OR

Fix the new slave onto the casing, nip up the banjo and using a standard brake bleeding kit bleed/flush the fluid right through.

Last job check the adjustment on your lever - the MPL requires more travel than the stock item to disengage the clutch.

Wipe off any spillages, put your tools away and Robert is your mothers brother.
 
Guys.

Choice time.

Either

Nip up the banjo, and using a clamp to stop the inner piston flying out, bleed the new slave cylinder before fixing it to the casing - this allows you to rotate it to ensure ALL the air comes out.

OR

Fix the new slave onto the casing, nip up the banjo and using a standard brake bleeding kit bleed/flush the fluid right through.

Thanks for the reply, but I need language that I understand. I certainly know how to bolt on things, it's just that the whole concept is vague to me until I see it clearly in my head.

What is "Nip up" Sounds like an insult to people of Japanese decent. Or do you just mean to squeeze or compress tightly between two surfaces or points?

And I would assume that bleeding means letting all of the fluid drain out?
OK....what does the brake bleed/flush kit look like and is there a motorcycle specific type to buy?

:crazySorry to be so pesky
 
:lol

Nip up, is "mechanic" speak for tighten, but not to go mad.
The bolt that sits on top of the slave cylinder tightens down onto a pair of copper washers placed either side of the "banjo" (end of hydraulic line). It does not need to be really, really tight, the bolt is steel, the cylinder is alloy and if you go mad it will strip the threads. I have been working on motorcycles since I was about 10, so nearly 40 years now, sorry it is difficult to explain what is a "feel" I will have a look in the manual - it probably gives a torque setting somewhere.

Brake Bleeding kit - any car accessory place - it's a bit of tube sticking out of a bottle. If you can get the tube any container will do - the old fluid is junk.
It is exactly the same process as bleeding a brake system.

Bleeding. The instructions will be on the side of the kit, but in essence you are letting a small amount of fluid out of the system by pulling the hand lever, then releasing the bleed nipple (thing on top of the slave cylinder 8 or 10mm spanner and the tube is a push fit over the "nipple") once the presure is released, close the nipple with the spanner and then release the lever. After every two or three pumps check the fluid level in the reservoir and top up as required.

By doing this you will get rid of all the air bubbles in the system - in my experience it takes only three or four pumps to sort the slave cylinder.

Bubbles of air cause the following problems in hydraulic brake or clutch systems.

1. they can be compressed and give a spongy feel and lack of bite to brakes, can cause a clutch to drag and make neutral a royal ***** to select.
2. the air expands when it gets hot and can cause clutch slip or brakes to start binding, which gets hotter etc etc.

Note - water in brake/clutch fluid will cause the same problems as it will produce steam when everything gets hot. for this reason use fresh fluid from a sealed container - I think it's DOT 4 in the Apes.

I would offer to pop around and do it, but since I am the wrond side of the pond to you I guess it ain't happening.
 
Hang on Paul i'll wheel me private plane out and we can all go over and lend a hand :thumbup
 
OK fellows,
no need to fly out but you are always welcome here as well as for free food and lodging.:yes I will do it myself and let you know the outcome of a fool's attempt at self inflicted mechanical work on his T. :crazy So I'm off to the auto parts store for tubing etc. And V60Paul I do appreciate those helpful tips because they soften my innate fear of me screwing things up.:banghead
 
be paitent chaps .... My bike is due down to Oberon engineering in the winter for them to use as donor bike fer varios sparkley bits, the slave cyinder being the first bit to be done.
Hi Mogster, has your T gone in to Oberon yet, what goodies are they measuring up for? Cheers
 

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