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Misfire and query re: fuel line - 2004 Tuono

Joined Aug 2011
5 Posts | 0+
Darkest Surrey
I should have known buying an Italian bike!

Took the Tuono out for its first proper run in the wet, filled it up with petrol and within a few miles it had developed a misfire on one (possibly both) cylinders under 5k rpm.

Bike has done ~200 miles in the dry and mostly dry since picking it up, has an Akra can but zero problems until now. Has a FSH and was serviced 2,000 miles ago.

It would pop and chatter and occasionally miss completely on both held steady at low rpm, but seemed to come back onto 2 just fine under load. So if I nailed it it would accelerate normally through the rev range, seem to fuel OK as it spooled down, but then once it dropped below ~5k start to pop badly again. It idled at a stop but unevenly, with the needle wobbling around idle rpm. Puttering around in 30 limits, it was also making a chuffing sort of noise from the airbox area - possibly one cylinder not firing?

No EFI lights at any time. Oil and coolant levels good, no pressure warning, no unusual temps. Nothing in the airbox drain tube. The airbox lid is sealed properly.

To rule out contamination (given that this started ~3 miles after refuelling), I've drained the tank. Because I saw no water and because I like to live dangerously, I chucked 6 liters of the fuel in my car, which has lapped it up happily over the last 30 miles or so. So unfortunately it wouldn't appear to be bad petrol.

I had wet-cleaned it, but it had been sitting in a dry garage for 16 hours after and did run fine for the first few miles. I don't use a jetwash or anything like that.

Only other thing that might have contributed is that in the course of checking that the air filter had been replaced at the last service, I popped the tank up and cleaned up the throttle spring at the cable ends, and also sprayed some silicone lube liberally on cables and tubing for good measure.

I don't know if getting silicone lube on the back coil housing or down one of the rear plug recesses could have caused the problem?

Second query arising from the above. Because I'm dumb and am used to low-pressure fuel systems with nice, simple butterfly clips, I managed in the course of trying to remove the hose clip midway along the tank --> injector line to break off the end of the white plastic valve. Like I said, dumb.

Is that a non-return valve? Or a tiny filter? Either way, could I run the bike without it and just substitute a 6mm or 1/4" plastic union (or run a new length of hose, but I don't want to break anything else)?

Alternatively, is it safe to glue the broken end back onto the valve? I'm a bit leery of doing that as I'm not sure whether glue (epoxy or superglue) will stand up to petrol and radiated heat, since if it breaks again the hose will instantly come off and spray petrol all over the engine. I'm guessing no. Although would this be OK just for purposes of cleaning up the plug and coil connectors with contact cleaner and running it on a paddock stand to see if a dry-out has fixed the problem?

I have ordered a new check valve/filter/whatever it is, but who knows how long that will take to get here.
 
With as much detail as you brought up, we can eliminate a few and see what happens?

1. That gas fill and 3 miles later: Come to find out you had zip for water. But that condensation of a day may point out a surface spark issue, not a gas issue. Are we dry enough after all this time it rained?
2. Since you eliminated the gas, your next bit of info points to the air box. We know that box is a closed loop unit. It would stall/stutter/lag, if it was not sealed well. We let a crack of air in there and the 02 is going to sniff out some lean. She goes rich with that leak. So with the box having been serviced [and you said it], the first thing out of the mouth, the cheezee holdown idea withe speegettity bra clamp to keep the air cleaner element in place. Wait, I said thaT. Lets not get involved with the owner's manual way of writing a book. I'd try to get a neighboring country next to them; to take a crack at writing those pages neck time. You're so hung up looking for the basics... Anyway, you have too many miles of not complaining after that service to have something crop up now.
3. Again, all I can do is go with watt you bring in. I'd chase that coil silicone drip with brake or contact cleaner. You do not want water or some sort of liquid path to have that coil all in a magnetic [out on the surface] kind of find the shortest path and you may have caused one with the silicone going from frame to coil body to frame. That, or it was just a wet day and the recall map I keep mentioning on dead ears is wait for the tune. I'm so close [I think] without some crap map that sort of matches the owner's manual; kind of first sentence from your post. Well stated I might add.

Yes, they are part of the fun are those nagging bugs that can be cleared up. However, if that is a fuel return, no, do not repair = Fire hazard about to vibrate off on a hot header? Wait for the new part. Live and learn.


Bottom line, you spay off that silicone, let it air dry while you change plugs. OR??? Maybe the plugs are fine. But if it does not fire as soon as you touch that starter button... Change spark plugs. That is how my bike starts so that is all I can go by.
 
Great! Thanks for taking the time to help.

I got a 6mm plastic fuel union and some correctly sized worm-type hose clamps and joined the fuel pump to injector line back up. I thought I was looking at a non-return valve, but that was my second piece of stupidity, as it appears it's actually just a fancy quick-connector to do precisely what I was trying to do - split the line to drain or remove the tank. Doh. I will restore the quick-release when the new connector arrives. In my defence, I've never seen one on a Japanese bike, which is all I'm used to.

And it turned out to be something fairly simple. After running it dry on the dregs of the old tank, I put in fresh gas and started it with the same symptoms. Thinking about the chuffing noise it was making, I figured it had to be a vacuum leak. I looked again and right next to the airbox drain tube saw a small vacuum hose from the front throttle body and a loose plastic l-shaped connector. I rejoined them, the noise lessened substantially and the bike immediately perked up.

I must either have knocked the l-shaped connector out while draining the tube, or the silicone lube actually made it inside the hose and caused the connector to slide out after a bit of riding. It doesn't appear to be a very tight interference fit, even with a temporary zip-tie on it, so I will check the parts 'fiche to see if there is a missing clamp, or maybe break out the black electrical tape.
 
I think you found it at the air box. Good eyes! Can't say how many times I had to mend stuff, find out it was too simple in design.
 
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