just finished a load of work

the old girl (2000 mille RSV-R) came up to 9000 miles, so was due a service.

as i'm out of work i decided to do it myself, along with a load of other work.

1st job was to change the entire wiring loom as the previous one had had an alarm fitted at least twice and i just didn't trust it. that was a mission, but once i'd found the knack of where everything had to come out from between the frame and engine on the right hand side it was easy enough.

next i fitted the akrapovic end can that came with the bike when i bought it last year.

then i did the 9000 mile service, including oil & filter, valve shims, coolant change etc

also fitted r&g crash bungs to both front and rear positions to go with the fork, swingarm and bar end ones that were fitted when i bought it. it's only a matter of time before i go down the track on it.

fitted an HID kit to the dipped beam and put a diode in the wiring loom to keep dipped beam on with main.

fitted renegard carbon air plate, which is the only picture i bothered to take of the whole lot. also added a filter to the breather pipe as the renegade does not have one.



fitted a spare ecu with chip from dr rossi. chip has dual maps, one with the wire cut for max power with the exhaust and air filter, and one with the wire joined with a bit of fuel taken out to give an improved tank range when going across to europe or out with the missus. just need to figure out how/where to put a switch now.

also fitted a stand from busbewoo that arrived this morning. looks and feels totally secure compared to the original and was an easy fit.

just need to have a test ride in the morning to see how it is :doug

not got many pics













oh yeah, also changed the underseat unit as a small incident with a power supply lead for camcorder at cadwell caused a bit of melting

it's now gone. can't believe the weight of it test ride in the morning to see what i think of the bike with renegade, akra and dr rossi chip :thumbup

what was it like doing the tappets did any need adjusting how long did it take just got to do my mates soon

A job well done fella, the bike looks fantastic. Njoy the ride out tomorrow. What gearing are you running?

Olek said:

you will love it, did similar to mine (akro ti can, hooked airbox, New chip,)
the bike was reincarnated!!!:thumbup:thumbup

Then i test rode the rsv4.:inlove
Bike will be up for sale soon:jack


Next on your list will be PC3 and custom mapping:devious:devious

Enjoy the test ride:biggrin

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I may well get a PC and WB Lambda and have a play at mapping it. Would much prefer it if this project finally got off the ground though

http://www.randomexploits.com/projects/ultramod/ultramod-gen2.htm

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=984564

Love the idea of the V4 as I have a VFR750 with V4 motor so can onl imagine how good the RSV4 will be. Have had a sit on it at the BMF show and found it to be very small though. Don't know if it will be comfortable enough for me. Also not prepared to spend £15k on a bike right now. I prefer someone else to take the depreciation hit. Maybe I'll buy yours in a couple of years?

camngetit said:

what was it like doing the tappets did any need adjusting how long did it take just got to do my mates soon

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Wasn't too bad. I have worked on car engines in the past, but never done anything with bike engines. As I'm off work I have time to do it myself and like the challenge and learning process. It was pretty easy to follow the Waynes manual. You just need a set of feeler gauges to measure the clearances and a micrometer to measure your original shims.

I suggest removing the fuel tank completely rather than just tilting it. Just undo the fuel pump to injector rail pipe at the throttle body (replace copper washers on refitting), the return fuel pipe has a connector half way along and the fuel pump electrical connector is behind the side panel to the right jand side just behind the seat. It makes removing the rear cam cover easier. I also found it easier to remove the throttle bodies from the rubbers to gain better access.

I also had to remove the coolant 3-way manifold to gain access to the front cylinder cam chain tensioner. That obviously means draining the coolant from the drain points on each radiator, but it's no bad thing to replace the coolant anyway.

The spec for inlet valve clearances is 0.12 to 0.17mm. Mine were 0.20, 0.20, 0.18 and 0.18 before adjustment, and 0.12, 0.13, 0.14 and 0.14 after changing shims.

Exhaust valve spec is 0.23 to 0.28mm and mine were 0.28, 0.28, 0.28 and 0.28 before adjustment and 0.25, 0.23, 0.235 and 0.235 after adjustment.

Time wise it can be done in half a day I would say, as long as you have the replacement parts available (cam cover seals, sealant for the grommet where the cam sensor goes under the cam cover gasket, fuel pipe copper washers, cam chain tensioner copper washers, crank shaft cap o-ring, copper washer for crankshaft position bolt, maybe more, can't remember)

Hardly seemed worth doing on most of them, but as I had it all apart and wanted to learn, I figured I may as well get them all within spec.

LEGS said:

A job well done fella, the bike looks fantastic. Njoy the ride out tomorrow. What gearing are you running?

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Thank you. Might get some new pics now it looks a bit different with the Akra and carbon seat cover. Don't know what the gearing is, but the rear sprocket has been changed to a Talon one, so I guess it's been altered. The previous owner frequented the forums, so I guess he changed it to the preferred shorter gearing. Will have a count later.