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I'm new to the RSVR... what's up with the impossible neutral?? any advice??

M

Moob

Joined Sep 2011
3 Posts | 0+
I've not long had the bike... minter '04 RSVR , super low miles (6K)... clutch works fine but neutral is a pain in the arse to get at the traffic lights!? is this just an aprilia thing or what!? i've had bikes that have been tricky to get neutral before but nothing like this... any words of wisdom for an aprilia virgin??

cheers...
 
welcome to the forum Moob :thumbup

a number of factors can affect how hard neutral is to get:

check the chain condition & adjustment

check the amount of oil (look up how to do this properly because false readings are much too easy to get)

do the clutch oil jet mod (plenty of write ups about it on here, i have yet to do this mod though so i cant say how easy it is etc)
 
If its any consilation they are all ***** there are a few mods which help but the cheapest is the clutch jet if you search the forum youll find all the techno jargon for it, another is givin it a rally good bleed and adjusting the little plunger on the clutch master behind the rubber thingy again for those that know me thats the technical term lol and lastly and the most exspensive a new aftermarket clutch slave from mpl or oberon should be around the ton mark the mpl is meant to be better but never done that mod so pass but the clutch jet is the one that works for most, good luck and enjoy m8 ......
 
does the aftermarket slave cyl help with neutral aswell? damn i gotta get me one of those.. *starts countin pennies
 
Sound advice from from the lads but my tuppence worth is to knock it into neutral from second gear (when possible) goes in no probs and won`t cost you a bean .........enjoy !!
 
Click on yorkshire aprilia, the jet mod 40 is what you want, bit fiddly but no big deal
had no probs since & only about a tenner or less inc del, cheapest option
 
Thanks guys!! ... i'll look into the jet mod i think... i've been tapping it in from 2nd but its too fiddly to be reliable enough to continue doing that as a solution!

:thumbup
 
Another thing to check is air in the line at the lever end. Pump the clutch lever a few times and crack the bleed nipple. If there is air you will hear it escape. Usually works on mine.
 
Cracking bike. Mine dosent have any of the useual faults bar the battery allways being flat and a ride out wont charge it. So get yourself a charger.
 
bryanthegoat said:
If its any consilation they are all ***** there are a few mods which help but the cheapest is the clutch jet if you search the forum youll find all the techno jargon for it, another is givin it a rally good bleed and adjusting the little plunger on the clutch master behind the rubber thingy again for those that know me thats the technical term lol and lastly and the most exspensive a new aftermarket clutch slave from mpl or oberon should be around the ton mark the mpl is meant to be better but never done that mod so pass but the clutch jet is the one that works for most, good luck and enjoy m8 ......
Click to expand...
Mine is only ***** if chain is to slack , apart from that its very good, i have the modded jet [bought it just in case from griff along with chain and sprockets ] havent fitted the jet cos it has been ok.make sure you know how to check oil level and i use putoline which is a nice blue colour which is handy cos its a bastard to see, i go a ten minute run then check level after 10 mins.pippip
 
Hi Moob, as Columbus says the problem is at the lever. Take off the resevoir cap, put a clear plastic tube on the nipple on the top of the lever, open the the nipple and bleed the fluid through. You will see the air come out. Keep an eye on the resevoir and top up accordingly. The clutch will feel and work a lot better.
 
I used Hein Gericke 10W50 fully synthetic at my last oil change and it made getting neutral hugely easier, not had a problem since then. Might be worth bleeding the clutch as well, and consider a new slave if the fluid is black as that also improved mine prior to the oil change.
 
The fluid turns black due to a poorly lubricated o ring in the slave cylinder. It will turn black again shortly after everytime you bleed it unless you split the cylinder and regrease the o ring.
 
I got a new slave cylinder coming (oberon one which was cheap so I couldn't refuse it) so if you want the one thats on my bike (no issues, I changed to this one from my original as my original was slightly weeping) and I get neutral from 1st or second. I also bleed teh clutch a bit every 2 months... Its not difficult, mate, just a bit of prep required - glass jar, 8" bit of tubing that fits over teh nipple and a bit of string or cable tie to hold the clutch lever in. Fitting the master cylinder is also easy - 3 fixings is all. And I hardly know which is the correct end of a screwdriver, so I'm not particularly mechanical minded.... Like I say, my master cylinder is coming off, so if you want it, let me know :)
 
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