hi all. i had the same complaint as everyone for clutch issues on my 02 rsvr, heavy and leaking seals on slave cylinder, bought myself a new oberon slave cylinder and bled the system, im a master technician car mechanic so believe me i know how to bleed these systems, i still have approx 1/2" free play on the first part of the clutch lever movement, i have to have the lever adjusted right out to be able to use it and the clutch bites within approx 5mm of releasing the lever from the bar. have the master cylinders ever been much of an issue on these bikes? i love this bike its just small things that would make it so much nicer to ride! also, a new issue which began last wk is that the speedo now intermittantly shows a speed even when im at standstill, sometimes while im doing 80mph it will say 0mph, other times when im doing 30 the speedo just flicks from completely random numbers, ie. 36 - 87 - 50 - 1 - 4 - 99 etc etc. ive not cleaned the bike recently really so ive not soaked the dash with a hose, does anyone know where the speedo pickup is on these? i wonder if its just that messing around a bit. il try and get some photos on here when i can figure out how to do it!
Joined Oct 2009
195 Posts | 0+
Hertfordshire
I've never had a problem with my clutch, but i know it's best to reverse bleed the system from the slave cylinder to expel all the air back up to the reservoir.
As far as your speedo is concerned, that sounds like an earthing issue,providing there's nothing wrong with the unit itself, although I am guessing. I know it uses the CAN BUS system, so it should be easily detected with the software diagnosis.
The sppedo sensor is mounted just behind the rear brake caliper. I've heard they're prone to failing from water ingress...so this could well be your problem.
As far as your speedo is concerned, that sounds like an earthing issue,providing there's nothing wrong with the unit itself, although I am guessing. I know it uses the CAN BUS system, so it should be easily detected with the software diagnosis.
The sppedo sensor is mounted just behind the rear brake caliper. I've heard they're prone to failing from water ingress...so this could well be your problem.
Joined Feb 2011
82 Posts | 0+
my speedo went last week just showing 0mph had a good look and the cable come out of the plastic cover underneath the swingarm and got mashed up in the wheel,soldered back together now working fine.check yours it might have done the same:thumbup
my clutch is the same (bites just off the bar) im just about to try and bleed the system i too am a plant engineer so am not shabby with the spanners! hope i have more luck than this. i had the same problem tho with the speedo and just replaced the speed sensor (ebay £41)and its brand new again and no problems.
Joined Oct 2010
33 Posts | 0+
Bedford
Had the same problem with my speedo sensor the other day. Took mine off and cleaned it, it was covered in road salt. There is a white connector behind right hand cover just below the riders seat. Check that is still tight. it`s the one with 3 wires 1 white/grey 1 purple/green 1 blue/orange if I remember correctly. If you have a multi meter you can test it using this connector.
http://rsvzone.com/forums/showthrea...hers-amp-sisters&p=62691&viewfull=1#post62691
http://rsvzone.com/forums/showthrea...hers-amp-sisters&p=62691&viewfull=1#post62691
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wow, thanks a lot guys, its amazing how helpful everyone is on this forum, previous bikes the forums seem to have a bit of a snobby attitude towards you unless you spend every waking moment on there chatting! il look into the speedo issue at the weekend, it sounds promising as i ride all yr so i dare say its covered in all sorts. also going to try bleeding my clutch again, this time im going to use a vacuum pump to suck new fluid and hopefully some air out, also going to put the bike on a paddock stand to get it upright properly rather then on the sidestand with some wood under it to try and make it more upright! il let you all know how it goes, hopefully it can help someone else out in the future. its such a shame to have such a great bike mess you around but i know it will be awesome when sorted. its my first v-twin and 1000cc, im so addicted.
im going to try and use a big syringe on my clutch, i drained all the old black oil out 2nite but cant get new fluid to flow in to get pumped. i have done this before on vfr brakes and managed to force all the air out then pumped it up and bleed it through real quickly! ill let you know when i have a syringe!
use the syringe to suck all the old fluid out then fill the syringe with new fluid attatch it to the nipple (the bikes not yours) and push the fluid slowly untill it fills the res if needed remove the fluid in the res and repeat filling the slave cyl untill no bubbles come out the res
camngetit thanks for making that clearer, for yrs ive wondered how coating my nipples in dot 5.1 will cure my brake and clutch issues and finally someone has clarified things for me! as much as i enjoy the feeling of the brake fluid on my huge hairy man nipples i feel that its in the best interests of my rsvr to at least try it your way! 
Joined Feb 2008
804 Posts | 0+
Devon
With the clutch I find that there is a high spot in the line run, where the banjo bolt joins to the MC. On the Brakes there is a bleed nipple here but not on the clutch SO it can trap air here. Cover the banjo with a rag. Pull and hold the lever in then "crack" the banjo bolt. If there is any air trapped, this will release it. Tighten up and off you go.
As for the speedo I reckon your pick up sensor is fooked. Common problem and simple to replace.
As for the speedo I reckon your pick up sensor is fooked. Common problem and simple to replace.
Joined Oct 2010
38 Posts | 0+
North Devon
Ninja - I too have been known to drive a spanner or two but that clutch had me baffled for a while until I bled the master cylinder first, then pumped the old crap out through the slave cylinder bleed, then back to the master cylinder for final bleed. Sorted!
hi d-surfer, so did you bleed the master cylinder as sabre suggests? hold the lever down, crack off the banjo bolt then retighten? i hadnt thought of doing that until sabre mentioned it and its really got me optimistic as the initial freeplay i have at the lever would be a perfect symptom of a small air pocket in that tight area. also as i have been doing the bleeding with the bike on the sidestand it makes that bolt on the mc even higher point in the system. really appreciate the feedback guys, ive only ever had jap bikes and they are boringly simple and maintenance free! ive only had tyhe rsvr 2 months but ive had to pull it apart to sort out teething problems 5 times already! it still hasnt put me off though. luckily im confident with a multimeter and a set of spanners so doesnt cost me more than just an afternoon or 2 of my time.
Joined Oct 2010
38 Posts | 0+
North Devon
Mine has a radial master cylinder which has a bleed nipple on the top next to the reservoir pipe & the highest point, I did it on a paddock stand so it was vertical. If yours isn't a radial cylinder with a bleed nipple cracking the master cylinder / hose banjo will do the same thing, its just not so controlled.
Tried bleeding the bleeding back brake yet?
Tried bleeding the bleeding back brake yet?
sorted, i couldnt find a syringe so just did the harder manual way and just bleed it as normal! easy now my clutch is bitting in the middle of the lever travel, the fluid that came out looked abit suspect tho so im glad i changed it! i also noticed that the engine oil was on the low marker so topped that up at the same time. job done, and i can once again ride my bike, although by the time i got inside and washed my hands it had started raining! sods law that is!!!!!
if there is play in the first bit of travel it could be adjustment needed on the plunger on the lever just totake the freeplay out
im fairly sure its not just the adjustment of the plunger on the mc due to the position of the bite point at the minute, got my day off tomorro so il bleed it properly tomorrow including the master cylinder and keep people posted with how it goes. not tried the rear brake yet no, i assume this is also a pain to do aswell then?
The levers have small adjuster screws on the pushrod itself..very useful for removing play....not just the span adjuster.
Also you can't properly bleed the slave cylinder with the bike on its sidestand as it needs to be tilted slightly to get the bubbles out of it.....best to get someone to tilt the bike over to the right whilst you bleed it....but even a paddock stand it a good start.
Also you can't properly bleed the slave cylinder with the bike on its sidestand as it needs to be tilted slightly to get the bubbles out of it.....best to get someone to tilt the bike over to the right whilst you bleed it....but even a paddock stand it a good start.
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hi all, just an update, finally i have a properly functioning clutch! i bled the clutch master cylinder as recommended at the banjo bolt, used my vacuum bleeder on the clutch slave and a slight tweak to the adjuster screw at clutch master and all is good! the only thing i will warn people of is the 'oberon' clutch slave cylinder. they are well made and do the job as described with no complaints, however the clutch action is only perhaps 5% less heavy, not a great increase for approx £75 payout! i have heard of the mpl and evo cylinders, my recommendation to people would be to pay the extra cash and get one of those ones as tghe oberon does not perform as well as it boasts on its site! either way i have now had 3 days proper riding on the bike without niggling clutch issues and clutch up wheelies are now a breeze! good times
Joined Jun 2009
26 Posts | 0+
West Midlands
I replaced my rear brake disc bolts for some S/S 316 grade ones instead and since then I have had 0 on my Speedo. A number of threads suggests the bolts will need to be changed (again), others due to water etc. I can't help thinking the bolts lie at the heart of the problem. Would anyone agree or disagree? It's truly p****d me off 'cos it took 3 hours and an Irwin bolt remover kit to shift two of the suckers 'cos they had been rounded off partly by some other fooker ... and by me!
The speedo is driven off the rear brake disc bolts, so probably due to the bolts not having enough/any magnetism! The internet says that normally SS 316 is not magnetic.
