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Hot brake

Black Sabbath

Black Sabbath

Joined Aug 2007
1K Posts | 0+
Brent Knoll, Somerset
After picking my 02 mille up from the MOT yesterday afternoon, I rode it 5 miles home. Now to pass it the bloke had to bleed the rear brake. (No shocking surprise there). When I got home the rear disk was "ticking" and when i spat on it, and the caliper, it sizzled.
Put it on the paddock stand and although the rear wheel would spin fairly freely there was some minor drag and I mean minor. Is this fairly common as it had been freshly blead.
I rode back medium/fast with some heavy braking but not that much and it was only 5 miles:dunno.
Cooked front brakes on the French peripherique a few years back on an FZR they actually seized on. Nothing like that bad, just extremely hot after a fairly short ride.

Would this concern you folks:dunno
 
My back brake locked on when I first bought it, that's how I spotted mine too, it was clicking it was that hot.

When I stripped it all down I found that the rear pads where all rusty and had literally stuck to the caliper slides. I cleaned them all up and put liberal amounts of copper slip on the edges of the pads and have had no problems since.

As you can see from one of my earlier posts, my back brake works so well I fooked my rear tyre yesterday.
 
Will investigate more when I return from sunny St Ives on friday:doug

Cheers buddy:thumbup
 
Keep an eye on it Mr Sabbath sir. Mine did this and promptly decided to bind on and melt the speedo sensor surround and foo bah the sensor in the process...........

Enjoy St Ives :thumbup
 
Yep, after bleeding mine I've twice found the rear caliper has 'locked' onto the disc...so much so the last time I skidded to a halt in the middle of the road & couldn't move the bike until the disc cooled down!!! Warped the rear disc & have learnt now to bleed rear brake with the adjuster moved forward so that when finished have a small amount of play to back it off & prevent said problem!
 
So
Have we gone from a rear brake that doesn't work
To rear rear brake that works to much? (locks)
 
I put the heat on my front brakes yesterday out the track...scary judders from hell at the end of the straight under hard braking from 250Kph. Discs are not not warped, but buttons a little stiff. Might go for some new pads also. I'll do anything not to experience that again.
 
AusRSV said:
I put the heat on my front brakes yesterday out the track...scary judders from hell at the end of the straight under hard braking from 250Kph. Discs are not not warped, but buttons a little stiff. Might go for some new pads also. I'll do anything not to experience that again.
Click to expand...

Have you ever cleaned the dust out of the calipers?
The pads should not bind.
Also clean the disc buttons (spray disc cleaner).

You could also the brembo hammer mod for the buttons.
 
Time to do calipers and disc buttons + new pads ... again ol mate..too frightening an experience coming off of those speeds.
I don't really give a rats *** about the rear, but those front ones you need in A1 order.
 
AusRSV said:
Time to do calipers and disc buttons + new pads ... again ol mate..too frightening an experience coming off of those speeds.
I don't really give a rats *** about the rear, but those front ones you need in A1 order.
Click to expand...

Did the same thing myself a few years ago.

Cleaned buttons and made sure they moved. (weren't sticking)

Month later, cleaned them again, then later again.

Then did the hammer mod, that stopped then from gumming up.

A few months later, high speed pulses (on road):eek:

Gave up and went to http://www.ferodobraketech.com/sportbikes/AXIS-Iron-Rotors.php
never looked back, awesome disc's

Havn't really had the no rear brake/locking problem either, just clean the brake dust and rubbish out of the caliper, every now and then.
just make sure the brake pads don't bind on anything.
 
Nice rotors..did you get the CMCz? If so, how much did they set you back for the pair please? What pads are you running on them & in what calipers?
Cheers, Aj
 
More bite than the standard brembo rotors.
Better feel through the same sintered pads.
Noticeably lighter.
Cheaper than standard disc's about au $880.00 IIRC, standard brembo au $1200.00+

Australian importer, http://www.easyriderimports.com.au/
He was just starting out, nice bloke, dropped them off, while doing some rounds.

Same 320mm disc's used on all rsv's, r's and i think radial too.
please check on the radial too, not sure myself, don't have them.

One thing to note.
Ductile iron does rust with sintered pads.
The way rotors should do. "ye old *******s will remember this"
 
Last edited:
So you went the iron rotors, not the CMCz?
Yearh, the old days..my Kwaka 9 used to always have a good coat of surface rust n the discs if not used for a bit.
There is a guy up here who races a Ducati, i'm pretty sure he has the same rotors.
Might have to take a closer look.

Apologies BS for hijacking your thread ol mate. :2finger :nana
 
Apologies BS for hijacking your thread ol mate.
Yeh sorry bout that..

one the rear brake issue....

Who uses the rear brake anyway?

Holding the bike at stop lights on a hill!

or help settling the bike from/to high speed for a corner.
If down shifting too, you don't need too much power in the rear brake.

You don't need too ride the rear brake, on acceleration out of corners.
Like what was done on two strokes.
 
I used to use lots of rear brake on jap 4's but not on the twin. It needs it for the M.O.T. tho. I will probably slacken it off a tad before next ride.
 
Pagan, I personally use my rear brake quite alot, holding the bike on a hill is certainly of benefit to me. I also tend to feather the rear brake into corners for extra stability. It's just a personal thing but it works for me.

Also you will need the rear brake for MOT purposes as Sabbath says
 
make sure your push rod is adjusted correctly with right ammount of freeplay as this will cause the back to bind & lock

also have some free room in the resivoir
 
Legs
I still use it for settling the bike..

Seems that with a big V-Twin, a powerful rear brake can be hazardous,
I know the slipper clutch works.
Fortunately:biggrin

Have anyone found the rear brake pads very close in fit tolarence?
I run a file down the sides, as they have been a bit close.
As the brakes warm up, the gap would reduce.
 
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