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HELP!! Batt.,Alt.?RS!

Joined Jan 2008
138 Posts | 0+
Avalon, Sydney, Australia.
Hi, form downunder, glad the weather is cooling of a bit. 40 degree's yesterday. Feck it was hot! Dripping wet like a nun's c____ after she seen a hot priest.Bit cool I hear for some of you lads up top at the mo. Anyway I get to work this morning ,stop the beast to unlock the gate and the fanny would not start again. Pushed her in, discon. the lights & got her running ,Put a meter on the batt.12v before starting, when running at 3000rpm still 12v. Stopped her and now won't start,not enough juice though it makes the clicking sound.( did a search on flat batt.& read badgers stuff etc.) Not sure about alt, i suspect batt. fecked. Should have read 14V when running? Do you think I will be able to clutch her & ride 50 ks home? Steve.:dowhat
 
Have you ever tryed bump starting a twin, its a ***** :)
get some jump leads on it that will get you home.
 
Thanks garv, just got a car batt. & jumped her ,fired, shut down. Will fire up later and hopefully get home, Steve
 
.... 12v before starting, when running at 3000rpm still 12v .....

This would indicate that its not the battery. And the fact that you can run the bike would suggest the rectifier is not working properly. Check the connector going to the rectifier, and maybe the rectifier itself. Not sure what the book diagnostic is on the rectifier, but you find this out for yourself.

I am quite new to this, so someone may be along to tell me im talking bollox.
 
Well guys I almost did not make it home. The bike started to cough & sputter, the dash red tiangle came up and I was low on fuel but could not top up because I would have to stop the engine. When I disconected the head lights the engine went fairly smoothly to home. I'm thinking voltage reg. , alt., rectifier or batt. Anyway the bike has four years warranty which should cover this.
cheers , thanks for the help Steve.
 
Glad you got it home mate. Haven't a clue whats wrong but thought the jump lead would do the trick. Helped me out in the past enough time :lol
 
:thumbup glad to here you made it home.I have a 07 rsvr.wondering if they get it fixed you could maybe post it so we know what to look for, if one of ours do the same thing hopefully not .take care and hope they sort it out in a timely matter. donnie :biggrin
 
theres a bit of a trick to diagnose this problem mate , fairly straight forward once you know!

i tell all if interested......if not i get my coat?? it is a long one .....

griffer!
 
My cocoa is cold, I'm waiting! Dropped the bike off at the bike shop and had to run to so I cold take the wife to work so I could get to work. I will try to get a detailed prognosis (cun't spell) of what went wrong and let you know. There that old saying "wife like that"!
 
ok then sorry about this! i'll try and keep this short!

there are 3 major componants involved in the charging circuit on our bikes

The 3 Phase Generator
The Reg /Rectifier unit
The Battery

also not forgetting the wires in between, a lot of problem are caused by the wiring due to the fact that the wiring is exposed to the elements unlike it is on a car! first thing to check everytime is the wiring no question, is it in good shape? corrosion?? clean and refit! then recheck!

The generator is 3 copper wound coils wrapped round a iron core, the flywheel around the outside has magnets inside it therefore generating the electricity required in AC (alternating current) trouble is the systems on a bike use DC (direct current)

To make this happen we use a rectifier, which is in reality a simple set of three diodes (one way valve) one for each phase. This will allow only the postive side of an AC generated voltage through to a battery! thus turning the AC current into DC

For those of you who are interested imagine a heart monitor with the up and down waves on the screen , this is postive up and negative down , this is because of the polarity change half way through the turn of the flywheel! the rectifier clips the negative (downwards) waveform off just allowing the postive waveform through!

your battery will then be charged! happy days!

to check the charging system we should have at least 20v AC from each of the yellow wires coming from the generator to the reg/rec unit and all three phases should be all about the same!

coming out of the unit should be running voltage of at least 12.8 v DC if this isnt happening then you can make the diagnosis from there!

low AC voltage on one or more phase .....generator

if theres ACV to the reg unit but nothing comin out, then suspect reg/rec unit

be careful as the wire from the reg unit to the battery will always show batt voltage as it should be connected to it and if not careful can throw you a bum steer!

Remember there are other checks to prove a theory , you always should prove a diagnosis before writing off a generator or a reg unit etcetc as they can be expensive!

hope this goes a little way to de mistifying the charging system to you guys??
Cheers
griff
 
Good write up Griff :)

For reference I am getting 65VAC @ 4500 rpm from each phase.
Each phase resistance is about 4 ohms measured between P1 - P2, P1 - P3 & P2 - P3

If you get a 0 resistance reading then you have an open circuit and one of the phases has failed, if you get a high resistance then you have a short circuit. Either way its a new stator required.

I am getting a healthy 13.8VDC @ 1300 rpm across the battery
 
Nice write up fusebox. I think I will be using your services this Spring, if you are who I think you are. People keep mentioning your business.
I need a map and tune done on my Tuono. :)

If you get a 0 resistance reading then you have an open circuit and one of the phases has failed, if you get a high resistance then you have a short circuit. Either way its a new stator required.

That is the wrong way round. 0 resistance means a short has taken place and high (infinite) resistance means that that phase has burned out.
 
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Cheers fusebox great write up many thanks to you and the rest of the clan. keep you posted on what the problem was. Steve.
 

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