Front sprocket change

jayb · Oct 11, 2008

Alright lads, going to change the sprocket in a bit before I go for a ride today.

Do I need the bellypan off and what secures the sprocket - a large nut I asssume? Anyone know what size so I can check my sockets?

Ta.

spoonz · Oct 11, 2008

No you don't need the bellypan off generally but it helps if you have a friend or a decent stand to do it with the bike upright.

Make sure you threadlock the bolt back in or it may come undone again.

Tighten to 36.8 ft lbs. 17mm spanner needed. loctite 243 or similar

A303 · Oct 11, 2008

Loctite eh? Er, better go and check it. I was relying on the direction of rotation (and a bloody great breaker bar) keeping it on. Thanks Spoonz.

Sprocker · Oct 11, 2008

A303 said:
Loctite eh? Er, better go and check it. I was relying on the direction of rotation (and a bloody great breaker bar) keeping it on. Thanks Spoonz.

FFS dont use a breaker bar A303, you'll be sorry if you shear the bolt

use a torque wrench as spoonz says. I sheared my sprocket bolt (and i was using a torque, think the bolt was stretched from previously being overtightened :dunno) and it was panic mode for a while but managed to drill and extract it before the threadlock set :thumbup

A303 · Oct 11, 2008

It was only a little three-foot breaker bar and i didn't put my whole weight on it (for long, anyway).

I suppose I'd better go and buy a torque wrench then (never had to worry about torque settings on my MT350 - bah).
Thanks Sprocker.

AREESSMILL · Oct 11, 2008

The best mod u can do........did mine 3 days ago and what a difference it makes.

Buy a torque wrench you cant do things like this without a proper wrench. and double check that the torqued figures are correct.

jayb · Oct 11, 2008

Cheers, all done, no torque wrench though, but I will borrow one and check it soon, i tightened it as much as I could - wasn't that tight really, do-able with a ratchet handle alone with the bike weight on it.
Just done 200 safe miles on it - much better, should be a 16 from the factory!
Engine feels a lot different and willing to give you more low torque and good acceleration higher up with less right-hand needed.
I filled up and did 100 miles or so and it only took £10 to brim again! Better than before I am sure.

machineshop · Dec 7, 2008

Is the thread on the nut a left hander? Whilst trying to change the sprocket I have heaved at the damned thing and cannot get it to move so rather than continuing until I shear it off, can anyone please let me know if it is a normal thread?

petrolpete · Dec 7, 2008

Sprocket retaining nut

Yup it is a normal thread (you turn clockwise to tighten and anti to loosen).
I am also guilty of having overtightened in the past (thank fook for easy outs).
Don't overtighten it (I can't recall it making mention of loctite in the workshop manual, but I may be wrong). I have not had any issues with any coming loose in my 40K (or near abouts) miles on milles.
Pete

machineshop · Dec 7, 2008

Many thanks. I think a bigger lever is needed than I was using. Back out into the garage and sub-zero temperatures I go!

Fox Fader · Dec 7, 2008

JayB said:
Cheers, all done, no torque wrench though, but I will borrow one and check it soon, i tightened it as much as I could - wasn't that tight really, do-able with a ratchet handle alone with the bike weight on it.
Just done 200 safe miles on it - much better, should be a 16 from the factory!
Engine feels a lot different and willing to give you more low torque and good acceleration higher up with less right-hand needed.
I filled up and did 100 miles or so and it only took £10 to brim again! Better than before I am sure.

Ours is 16 OE, but I still felt the need to go up 2t in the rear. This bike is even more fun now.

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Front sprocket change

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