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spoonz
Guest
Not sure you need a revalve unless your either very light or very heavy.
You can alter the springs/oil viscosity/air gap which will all alter the damping.
The best mod for Ohlins is the superbike internals. Essentially a race fork cartridge setup but big expense and for most i'm not sure it would make your ride any better.
Used Kais for parts. They were fine.
You can alter the springs/oil viscosity/air gap which will all alter the damping.
The best mod for Ohlins is the superbike internals. Essentially a race fork cartridge setup but big expense and for most i'm not sure it would make your ride any better.
Used Kais for parts. They were fine.
B
Badger
Guest
Had my forks fitted with 25mm superbike cartridge but not new springs as i am 12.5 stone, also had the rear shock revalved again spring weight was fine for me, i would recommend K-Tech, been to Kais before and my recommendation is K-Tech.
You won't notice much difference with the S/B kit unless you ride it hard, maybe springs and new oil and correct air gaps, more than likely springs and a service will be all that you need, plus obviously setting up properly re damping etc.:biggrin
You won't notice much difference with the S/B kit unless you ride it hard, maybe springs and new oil and correct air gaps, more than likely springs and a service will be all that you need, plus obviously setting up properly re damping etc.:biggrin
S
spoonz
Guest
The springs have to be matched to you and the bikes combined weight. if your 18 stone out of gear then both front and rear springs will be wrong for you.
The idea of the springing is to make the suspension ride at the correct height to the ground and to leave you the correct amount of travel when riding to absorb the bumps. If it's sagging too much all of that will be wrong.
Get the sag right with the correct springing and then play with the damping.
You should have about 35-40 mm sag on the front with you on in gear and deffo not more than 50mm. With you off you must not have less than 20mm.
On the rear 25 -30mm loaded and no less than 10mm unloaded. If you can't get in those parameters you need springing mods.
The oil viscosity will alter the overal damping. Thicker oil/stiffer fork.
The air gap will alter the ramping of the damping. the more oil the faster the fork will stiffen and vice versa. Generally the ramping only goes up significantly in the last 1/3rd travel to absorb big hits. It shouldn't be in that zone generally.
as a guide (not sure on your bike year/model)
2004 rsv factory 209kg
you in gear (18 stone + 1 for gear) 120.6kg
total 329.6 kg/725 pounds.
stock ohlins springs rec load capacity (post 01 Ohlins 95nm) = 538lbs.
As you can see it's not even close to your weight.
The idea of the springing is to make the suspension ride at the correct height to the ground and to leave you the correct amount of travel when riding to absorb the bumps. If it's sagging too much all of that will be wrong.
Get the sag right with the correct springing and then play with the damping.
You should have about 35-40 mm sag on the front with you on in gear and deffo not more than 50mm. With you off you must not have less than 20mm.
On the rear 25 -30mm loaded and no less than 10mm unloaded. If you can't get in those parameters you need springing mods.
The oil viscosity will alter the overal damping. Thicker oil/stiffer fork.
The air gap will alter the ramping of the damping. the more oil the faster the fork will stiffen and vice versa. Generally the ramping only goes up significantly in the last 1/3rd travel to absorb big hits. It shouldn't be in that zone generally.
as a guide (not sure on your bike year/model)
2004 rsv factory 209kg
you in gear (18 stone + 1 for gear) 120.6kg
total 329.6 kg/725 pounds.
stock ohlins springs rec load capacity (post 01 Ohlins 95nm) = 538lbs.
As you can see it's not even close to your weight.
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2008
- Messages
- 143
- Location
- Sunderland
TT i'm a similar weight to you and i had the front and back serviced by this guy ( Colin) http://www.100pcsuspension.co.uk/home.html
can't recommend him enough . I had a stronger rear spring fitted but he left the front as it was , total cost £250.00 inc set up well worth it .
Downside is you have to take the parts to him as he is normally at track days / race meetings in his mobile workshop .
Rawly
can't recommend him enough . I had a stronger rear spring fitted but he left the front as it was , total cost £250.00 inc set up well worth it .
Downside is you have to take the parts to him as he is normally at track days / race meetings in his mobile workshop .
Rawly
